driving vibration
#41
On my first ever set of BFGs and gotta say, now I know why they're the best selling tire! Super impressed after a year so far. They've been by far the best quality I've seen in any tire (5th set on this truck in 230k). Never did have the original KO but the KO2 won me over with the snowflake rating.
However, I gotta wonder if my high vibe is the tread pattern. Went through a horrible Cooper experience where the tread vibed terribly for years so I'm cautiously optimistic about them. This is so fast though it feels like clutch or output shaft really.
You can't go wrong with either really. Same company and the two best tires made. I'll never touch Nitto/Toyo or Cooper/Mastercraft/Dean,etc. again. Being you're in WA and near mountains, I'd get the KO2. Got my set of 33s from Discount for only $600 after they gave me 200 for the crap coopers and a BFG rebate.
However, I gotta wonder if my high vibe is the tread pattern. Went through a horrible Cooper experience where the tread vibed terribly for years so I'm cautiously optimistic about them. This is so fast though it feels like clutch or output shaft really.
You can't go wrong with either really. Same company and the two best tires made. I'll never touch Nitto/Toyo or Cooper/Mastercraft/Dean,etc. again. Being you're in WA and near mountains, I'd get the KO2. Got my set of 33s from Discount for only $600 after they gave me 200 for the crap coopers and a BFG rebate.
#42
+1 On driveline, I pulled my shafts, they were ok, I had a bad front wheel bearing and bad U joints on the front axle, after replacing, much improved, then I rotated the tires, more improvement. I still need to do the front end, but it's comfortable driving it right now, it just wanders.
Just returned from a 12 hour road trip, running around 10,000lbs GVW.(truck, trencher in bed, tow dolly and second vehicle on dolly) The beast still averaged 13mpg, lots of highway running at 70, a few traffic jams, and about 4 hours of back country roads. I had to think about stops......
My drinks stayed in the cup holders and my spine wasn't numb anymore. My bladder thanks me.
Don't just look at the joints, pull the shafts and physically move them, mine weren't loose at all, they were tight. Moving them by hand showed me that they were too tight, so they weren't moving correctly through their full axis. Front shafts can be pulled in less than an hour. Driveshafts are faster.
Just returned from a 12 hour road trip, running around 10,000lbs GVW.(truck, trencher in bed, tow dolly and second vehicle on dolly) The beast still averaged 13mpg, lots of highway running at 70, a few traffic jams, and about 4 hours of back country roads. I had to think about stops......
My drinks stayed in the cup holders and my spine wasn't numb anymore. My bladder thanks me.
Don't just look at the joints, pull the shafts and physically move them, mine weren't loose at all, they were tight. Moving them by hand showed me that they were too tight, so they weren't moving correctly through their full axis. Front shafts can be pulled in less than an hour. Driveshafts are faster.
#43
Ok so here's where I'm at. Last night after getting it back up on jack stands and watching the tires turn and seeing the bumps and wobble of the tire I decided that new tires need to be put on. I got brand new 265-75/16 Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires put on today. I still have a fricken shake!!! It is slightly better though with the new tires. The shake gets worse when cruising on the highway and turning with a sweeping corner, feels like the front end starts shaking, and I can feel it in the wheel pretty good. Straight line it's not as prominent but can still be felt through the whole truck and steering wheel.
I'm at the point where I'm just about to quit and take it to someone and pay them good money to figure this out because I'm having no luck. New track bar on it.
I was budgeting to put a redhead box on it next month, not that that will help with the shake but at least it would not wonder. All steering components seem tight to me, except that i can roll them back and forth easily on their joints. Lower ball joints have the slightest amount of play that you can see with your eye and hear ever so faintly. Wheel bearings are tight. I don't know how to check the front u joints without tearing everything apart, but they don't make noise when turning sharp.
Maybe the KYB OEM shocks I put on it suck? Maybe it's these eastern washington roads here. Seattle side gets all the money for roads.
Control arms? Been thinking of putting new ones on. Again not something I know how to check to see if they're bad.
I'm at the point where I'm just about to quit and take it to someone and pay them good money to figure this out because I'm having no luck. New track bar on it.
I was budgeting to put a redhead box on it next month, not that that will help with the shake but at least it would not wonder. All steering components seem tight to me, except that i can roll them back and forth easily on their joints. Lower ball joints have the slightest amount of play that you can see with your eye and hear ever so faintly. Wheel bearings are tight. I don't know how to check the front u joints without tearing everything apart, but they don't make noise when turning sharp.
Maybe the KYB OEM shocks I put on it suck? Maybe it's these eastern washington roads here. Seattle side gets all the money for roads.
Control arms? Been thinking of putting new ones on. Again not something I know how to check to see if they're bad.
#44
You can check for severely worn u-joints by wiggling them with your fingers. You will hear the cross clink between the cups if the bearings are gone. Or visually, you can see orange caps (rust) meaning no more grease and rusted bearings.
How are your wheels? A friend from church just got new KO2s on his 00 F150 and has to find a used wheel because one lug hole was wallowed out from under torquing at some point. They are the stock AL ford wheels. Do you have the Dodge AL 2500 wheels?
Other things that can cause vibes are the brake discs, pads, shoes, and rotors. Also driveline ujoints or a dented drive shaft.
The rolling tie rods is normal. They are ball joints after all. Just get the Redhead and start steering straight again. Then you'll feel better enough to tackle the vibe. That was me two years ago and finally solved the bad vibe with tires (after replacing almost everything else). Still have a small buzz but it's livable.
How are your wheels? A friend from church just got new KO2s on his 00 F150 and has to find a used wheel because one lug hole was wallowed out from under torquing at some point. They are the stock AL ford wheels. Do you have the Dodge AL 2500 wheels?
Other things that can cause vibes are the brake discs, pads, shoes, and rotors. Also driveline ujoints or a dented drive shaft.
The rolling tie rods is normal. They are ball joints after all. Just get the Redhead and start steering straight again. Then you'll feel better enough to tackle the vibe. That was me two years ago and finally solved the bad vibe with tires (after replacing almost everything else). Still have a small buzz but it's livable.
#45
You can check for severely worn u-joints by wiggling them with your fingers. You will hear the cross clink between the cups if the bearings are gone. Or visually, you can see orange caps (rust) meaning no more grease and rusted bearings.
How are your wheels? A friend from church just got new KO2s on his 00 F150 and has to find a used wheel because one lug hole was wallowed out from under torquing at some point. They are the stock AL ford wheels. Do you have the Dodge AL 2500 wheels?
Other things that can cause vibes are the brake discs, pads, shoes, and rotors. Also driveline ujoints or a dented drive shaft.
The rolling tie rods is normal. They are ball joints after all. Just get the Redhead and start steering straight again. Then you'll feel better enough to tackle the vibe. That was me two years ago and finally solved the bad vibe with tires (after replacing almost everything else). Still have a small buzz but it's livable.
How are your wheels? A friend from church just got new KO2s on his 00 F150 and has to find a used wheel because one lug hole was wallowed out from under torquing at some point. They are the stock AL ford wheels. Do you have the Dodge AL 2500 wheels?
Other things that can cause vibes are the brake discs, pads, shoes, and rotors. Also driveline ujoints or a dented drive shaft.
The rolling tie rods is normal. They are ball joints after all. Just get the Redhead and start steering straight again. Then you'll feel better enough to tackle the vibe. That was me two years ago and finally solved the bad vibe with tires (after replacing almost everything else). Still have a small buzz but it's livable.
The brake shoes in the rear are virtually new. Replaced them when my wheel cylinder blew. But when I was turning the rear wheels last night I could tell that maybe the drums need turned, they hang up in a spot or two (also factory drums with the pentastar stamped on them). Rotors feel true, there's no vibes in the pedal when braking. The drivers side caliper looks like it has stuck in the past as the pad is wearing more on the aft of the pads than the very front of them. I addressed that a few months ago by lubing up the slides on the caliper, not sure if that fixed it or not. Was planning on replacing the calipers, pads and brake lines soon too because of the oddly worn pad.
Dents in the rear driveline...yes I have some small ones from my own stupidity. But in my defense, those didn't help or make the vibe worse when i replaced those u joints so I don't think that's it.
#46
#47
#48
I'm going to suggest new wheel bearings on both axles. Spicer 5-3226x joints have the needle fitting in one of the caps so you can actually grease them after they are installed. Once you have it that far apart, you can check the ball joints better. I like Spicer or XRF. For brakes I have had good results with Wagner components and Thermoquiet pads and shoes.
http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com This won't help vibration, but it sounds like you still have some play and wander in your steering.
The ball stud between the double joints on the front drive shaft can wear out and cause problems also.
http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com This won't help vibration, but it sounds like you still have some play and wander in your steering.
The ball stud between the double joints on the front drive shaft can wear out and cause problems also.
#49
Let's start over and re-think this.
Pretend I'm new to this conversation and you are describing the issue for the first time. How does it feel? When does it happen? What's the frequency? Buzz, shake, wobble, etc.? When did it start? Has anything you've fixed made it change?
Pretend I'm new to this conversation and you are describing the issue for the first time. How does it feel? When does it happen? What's the frequency? Buzz, shake, wobble, etc.? When did it start? Has anything you've fixed made it change?