CAD system.
Okay, finally got around to looking into my non functioning 4WD system. Removed the shift actuator on the front axle and noticed my shift fork was severely worn out. I have no idea what would cause this or if it’s normal wear and tear after a bunch of miles.
Also noticed that there is pretty significant movement on the right side (outer) axle. I can move it up and down pretty good. I definitely know the axle seal right there is bad, but is there a bearing (bushing?) it is supposed to ride on or does it keep its alignment with the other axle by the shift fork?
I confirmed the actuaotor moves when shifted into 4WD and that all teeth and the shift collar where in good condition. The collar moves over effortlessly when the axle half’s are aligned.
Biggest thing I need to know is if I’m looking at needing to replace a bearing on the outer axle or it it’s just seals and a single bearing at the end? With the shift fork keeping the axle half’s aligned?
Thanks for any and all help!


Also noticed that there is pretty significant movement on the right side (outer) axle. I can move it up and down pretty good. I definitely know the axle seal right there is bad, but is there a bearing (bushing?) it is supposed to ride on or does it keep its alignment with the other axle by the shift fork?
I confirmed the actuaotor moves when shifted into 4WD and that all teeth and the shift collar where in good condition. The collar moves over effortlessly when the axle half’s are aligned.
Biggest thing I need to know is if I’m looking at needing to replace a bearing on the outer axle or it it’s just seals and a single bearing at the end? With the shift fork keeping the axle half’s aligned?
Thanks for any and all help!


Hoowee! You've got a job for you! That puppy is toast. Looks like bearings, axle shafts, and fork/vacuum actuator.
Here's a quick vid just searching around that shows the guts in working order. He's dealing with a vacuum leak I think.
And if your stub shaft is moving, it's broken where it mates to the intermediate shaft. This vid shows that best:
Here's a quick vid just searching around that shows the guts in working order. He's dealing with a vacuum leak I think.
And if your stub shaft is moving, it's broken where it mates to the intermediate shaft. This vid shows that best:
Last edited by Ramman18; Oct 25, 2017 at 12:37 AM.
So it looks as if both the oil seal and inner shaft bushing have completely worn out. As well as my shift fork.
So so now I have a few options. Looks about $130 ish to buy a new fork, bushing, and seal. $170ish for new fork, posi lok cable system, or $250 and say bye bye to the CAD system.
I am really liking the idea of just putting a once piece axle shaft into the housing and calling it day. Other then a slight bit of mileage decrease I can’t see why it wouldn’t be the best option. Anyone care to explain otherwise?
So so now I have a few options. Looks about $130 ish to buy a new fork, bushing, and seal. $170ish for new fork, posi lok cable system, or $250 and say bye bye to the CAD system.
I am really liking the idea of just putting a once piece axle shaft into the housing and calling it day. Other then a slight bit of mileage decrease I can’t see why it wouldn’t be the best option. Anyone care to explain otherwise?
Eliminating the cad will have all that stuff rotating while driving. Might get a vibration from it if other parts are worn. (mainly in the front driveshaft.)
I would be tempted to go with the posi-lok system, that is pretty much infallible, and also gives you the option of 2 low.
I would be tempted to go with the posi-lok system, that is pretty much infallible, and also gives you the option of 2 low.
While i was originally going to go with the Posi Lok system it looks like ill have to replace all the same parts as just fixing my stock unit.
Looks like i need the bushing for the intermediate shaft, new shift fork, new axle seals and then go from there. Add all that plus the cost of a posi lok cable and im right at the $250 for a single piece axle.
Dodge did away with the CAD system on the 2500/3500 trucks in 02' and Jeep did so on the Cherokees in the early 90's.
Just seems like other then the slight mileage decrease it would be he strongest most reliable method out there.
http://emsoffroad.com/cad-delete-1500-dodge/
Looks like i need the bushing for the intermediate shaft, new shift fork, new axle seals and then go from there. Add all that plus the cost of a posi lok cable and im right at the $250 for a single piece axle.
Dodge did away with the CAD system on the 2500/3500 trucks in 02' and Jeep did so on the Cherokees in the early 90's.
Just seems like other then the slight mileage decrease it would be he strongest most reliable method out there.
http://emsoffroad.com/cad-delete-1500-dodge/
Nice looking kit. Although the disconnect came back in the 3rd gens somewhere with an electric disconnect instead of vacuum. I've never had a problem with mine. I wonder how much it would really help mileage. If Dodge kept it for several years after Jeep and then removed it the last year of 2nd gen, seems weird to me. I've never checked the HD 3rd gens but 1500s got it.
I've never read anyone here or other forums that have done this or made it a 'mod' for our trucks, like plenum, track bar, etc. Can't imagine its really worth doing.
I've never read anyone here or other forums that have done this or made it a 'mod' for our trucks, like plenum, track bar, etc. Can't imagine its really worth doing.
As for milage difference, I typically noticed 1.5 to 2 mpg improvement with the cad unlocked. I've tried checking it recently, but my milage is so erratic that I'm not sure what changes what.










