Hello folks,

So as I'm chasing down the last of my mystery noises, I'm pretty sure one of my catalytic converters is creating a nice fast rattle noise. I got a quote from a local shop to replace it at about $350 per cat (though he doubted both would need to be replaced). I called around a bit and that wasn't an unusual price.

I have never replaced any exhaust parts myself. However, as I look around I have found 'direct fit' replacement cats for 240-300 online...not much cheaper, but a little. I don't have any tools to do my own welding, nor the skill for it. The only appeal I have to something like these direct fit 'bolt on' parts is that the current parts are bolted, not welded in, and I could continue to replace things myself with direct fit parts later (muffler, etc).

Here's my question - are these things really 'direct fit' bolting only with no need of welding? Or, is this the kind of thing where they don't technically need welding but will certainly leak for me later if I don't?

I've seen plenty of universal fit parts for far less than the direct fit stuff, but once you factor in paying someone else to put them in - the cost is about the same (I swear this is a conspiracy to keep people from just doing the work themselves).

https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.co...?set-vehicle=1
$260 direct fit cats

in the process of shopping for catalytic converters I also found gibson bolt on cat back exhaust kit, curious if anyone had any opinions about that ---there's nothing wrong with the muffler that's on it, just curious about opinions.

thanks,

Ray

99 ram v10 quad cab short bed

 

The biggest problem with working on exhaust is..... It's exhaust.... Chances are very good the bolts will be rusty, and break, rather than come out.... The pipes, while maybe only being clamped, are still going to be extremely difficult to get apart, as the clamps will distort the metal, effectively locking the pipes together. If you break off studs in the manifold...... you are going to need a torch to get those out.

I hate exhaust work. With a passion. The shop I worked at SPECIALIZED in custom exhaust...... so I was doing it pretty much every day. (you can flip a coin on cause and effect there..... ) Having all the right tools, and a hoist, is the ONLY way to be doing exhaust. Otherwise, you get halfway into a project, and realize that it is going to be beyond your capabilities, simply because you don't have the right tools, and you will STILL end up paying someone else to do it. The shop I worked at is closed now. (owner retired.) but, the building itself is still there, along with all the tools. (it's on his personal property) He lets me use the shop for various odd and sundry jobs that I do, simply because we have been friends for such a long time. (basically, since 91) If I can't get into the shop for exhaust work that needs to be done, I will WAIT until I can........

 

dang, well that isn't what I wanted to hear.

It sounds like I shouldn't open that can of worms unless I was thinking of replacing from manifold to tail pipe.

I was hopeful I could just spend $200-$250 and be done.

 

If you are going to replace the manifolds, and cats..... you could probably manage that at home, but, if you want to re-use the manifolds....... You REALLY need to have a torch available. Get the bolts good and hot, and they will generally come right off.... unless the studs are really corroded. I always enjoy the ones that are basically needle thin, but still hanging on.... I know I am going to break them..... I just bite the bullet, and deal with it. At least in a truck, there is a fair bit of room up there to play.

 

So, this got me to really thinking...ok, so why not...how much can the headers be anyway?

Well, quite a price range out there huh?

So what's the deal with headers...I'm seeing cheapo no brand name headers for $100-$200 ish dollars...and then I found some gibsons for $500 ish dollars...that's quite a swing...are people having to modify these no name headers that I'm finding on amazon and ebay?...

searching 'headers' and 'v10' on the forum doesn't provide much help...I seem to lose the 'v10' and end up looking at article after article on v8.

-Ray

 

Its mostly about quality of build, and materials used. The Gibsons are actually quality pieces, the 100 dollar fellers are thin steel, and simply don't last. Not to mention being hard to convince them to actually seal. Also, there just isn't much support left for the 8.0 any more.... back when they were still actually producing them, you had a much greater variety of choice, not so much any more.

 

Well that adds up.

I was having a conversation with a coworker about this, and they told me if I replace exhaust with these gibson parts I'm looking at: headers, cat back, cat replacment - that I would need to have the truck tuned (hemifever SCT - something along those lines) or else the truck would go into 'limp mode'. This coworker doesn't necessarily have RAM specific background - but has done other work on exhaust.

Any truth to this? If I take this on, should I expect to put that in the budget?

Ray

 

Shorties are, 99% of the time, direct bolt-on replacements, and no other mods are needed. Long tubes will require some reconfiguring of the exhaust, as the exits are further down than stock. I *think* the stock cats are RIGHT after the manifolds, so, with long tubes, you would need to do something about that as well.

You don't need a custom tune. Would it help? Sure, even Hemifever's canned tunes are better than stock, is it a requirement? Nope.