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Brake Help

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  #1  
Old 12-06-2017 | 08:05 PM
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Default Brake Help

Here is the two issues.
this was the first problem: My grandpa has an identical truck to mine (mine is an 01 his is a 97). His brakes are more touchy then mine. Mine don't lose pressure but seem to be like there is air trapped (bleed them several times). Anybody experience this?
Second problem: was moving my feet around the other day and but the e-brake pedal. The cables are bad and it retracted up to stationary position but the cable didn't. (I can press it about halfway before feeling resistance) which caused my brake light to come on. The e-brake didn't I checked all the cables are bad. But not my brake and ABS light are in how can I get the pedal to retract? I don't have a lot of tools as I'm halfway across the country for a major family emergency.
 
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Old 12-06-2017 | 09:05 PM
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Your brakes may need adjusting or some Dodges have a valve that is supposed to add more rear braking as you load the truck. Disconnect it and move it in the direction it would go if you filled the box with gravel. Tape it in position until you can replace the rear hose with one that doesn't have the stupid valve. My 95 1500 doesn't have the valve, we put a hose for it in place of one on a 2000 2500 that had the valve. Also check your brake line behind the fuel tank, they like to rust through there.

If you pull the release and pull the pedal to the top, does the light go out? If so, zip tie the pedal up for now. Just make sure it didn't apply the E brake at all.
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-2017 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Here is the two issues.
this was the first problem: My grandpa has an identical truck to mine (mine is an 01 his is a 97). His brakes are more touchy then mine. Mine don't lose pressure but seem to be like there is air trapped (bleed them several times). Anybody experience this?
Second problem: was moving my feet around the other day and but the e-brake pedal. The cables are bad and it retracted up to stationary position but the cable didn't. (I can press it about halfway before feeling resistance) which caused my brake light to come on. The e-brake didn't I checked all the cables are bad. But not my brake and ABS light are in how can I get the pedal to retract? I don't have a lot of tools as I'm halfway across the country for a major family emergency.
UPDATE: Got code 2 for the ABS light on, I got this by ground pin 13 on the OBDll connector. Pulled ABS fuse and swapped with another fuse. Lights went out even brake light. Might come back on will report back if they do.
 
  #4  
Old 12-07-2017 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2bit
Your brakes may need adjusting or some Dodges have a valve that is supposed to add more rear braking as you load the truck. Disconnect it and move it in the direction it would go if you filled the box with gravel. Tape it in position until you can replace the rear hose with one that doesn't have the stupid valve. My 95 1500 doesn't have the valve, we put a hose for it in place of one on a 2000 2500 that had the valve. Also check your brake line behind the fuel tank, they like to rust through there.

If you pull the release and pull the pedal to the top, does the light go out? If so, zip tie the pedal up for now. Just make sure it didn't apply the E brake at all.
Lights came back on. Yes it does take the BRAKE light out, and did apply pressure to the cable but the cable is so stretched it didn't apply the e-brake itself
 
  #5  
Old 12-07-2017 | 12:35 PM
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ABS and BRAKE light came back on according to the family it's either a broke wire going to either the combination valve or CAB, bad CAB, or bad combination valve. Is there anyway to test the CAB or combination valve.
 
  #6  
Old 12-07-2017 | 12:44 PM
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Still getting the same codes?

Code 2 is whining about a wheel speed sensor..... 2 or 4 wheel ABS?
 
  #7  
Old 12-07-2017 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Still getting the same codes?

Code 2 is whining about a wheel speed sensor..... 2 or 4 wheel ABS?
2 wheel scoring to the fsm it said a faulty combination valve or CAB
 
  #8  
Old 12-07-2017 | 04:37 PM
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Posting from your phone?

Check connections at the various valves below the master cylinder. Something may have simply come unplugged. Done any brake work recently?
 
  #9  
Old 12-07-2017 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Posting from your phone?

Check connections at the various valves below the master cylinder. Something may have simply come unplugged. Done any brake work recently?
Adjusted rear drums way before this as I didn't put the self adjusters back in, never found a vehicle where they actually work. Maybe it's all the burnouts I do lol (actually serious about this one have to show up the Chevy's and Ford's) but yes from my phone lol
 
  #10  
Old 12-07-2017 | 06:01 PM
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Most of the time, they don't work because something else is seized up. When everything is clean, and installed properly, they actually do make a bit of difference over time.
 


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