01 RAM 2WD loses power and bucks on acceleration
#1
01 RAM 2WD loses power and bucks on acceleration
Hello!
This is my first post and I am hoping you all can help me out. I will add info about what codes my truck has when able but for now I wanted to get my situation out there.
I bought this 01 RAM from a friend of mine, it has 147k miles on it original everything as far as I know. Within the last year I have been having a bad issue with the truck losing power and chugging when trying to accelerate. It will happen at any speed. If I floor it the truck will power through. I have been suspecting the TC and have been driving with O/D OFF button engaged and it has been much better. However now even with that engaged it is doing it badly again.
It is intermittent but is doing it more often than not lately. I have not had a tune up but wanted to get some insight on what it might be. Cylinders, Fuel system, sensors etc
This is my first post and I am hoping you all can help me out. I will add info about what codes my truck has when able but for now I wanted to get my situation out there.
I bought this 01 RAM from a friend of mine, it has 147k miles on it original everything as far as I know. Within the last year I have been having a bad issue with the truck losing power and chugging when trying to accelerate. It will happen at any speed. If I floor it the truck will power through. I have been suspecting the TC and have been driving with O/D OFF button engaged and it has been much better. However now even with that engaged it is doing it badly again.
It is intermittent but is doing it more often than not lately. I have not had a tune up but wanted to get some insight on what it might be. Cylinders, Fuel system, sensors etc
#2
#5
You need to see if your plenum gasket has been changed. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...um-thread.html I don't remember all the symptoms, I changed mine before it got real bad. I'd try O2 sensors first either NTK or Mopar. Hey
You is better with the codes and diagnosing than me. If you end up needing the plenum gasket, I recommend a new timing chain and water pump as long as you have it that far apart. I think others that ran a long time with a bad plenum may have plugged their catalytic converter also.
You is better with the codes and diagnosing than me. If you end up needing the plenum gasket, I recommend a new timing chain and water pump as long as you have it that far apart. I think others that ran a long time with a bad plenum may have plugged their catalytic converter also.
#6
Just had a really bad drive home and got a p1762 which I’ve had before. Also it seems to all be getting worse. Now when I tap the gas from a stop the rpm flares and it’ll cruise with no pedal input upwards of 30mph. Also when I stopped the engine flared up as if something unbound all of a sudden.
#7
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#8
#9
If you need the plenum changed, the problem was the bolts were to long. You need shorter bolts or the Hughes kit which uses a thicker aluminum plate instead of the stock steel plate. I'd try the O2 sensor first, it's a lot cheaper and should get changed anyway. I believe sometimes the coolant temp sensor fails and causes problems also. I can't remember if it sets a code or not. Hey You would maybe remember.
With the age/ mileage of your truck, if you need the plenum fixed and have the money, I would consider......
1) A new dist cap, rotor, plugs, and maybe wires. It's very easy to change with the intake removed.
2) Replace the crank sensor, IAC, and coolant temp sensors, they are common problems on our trucks and yours are probably original.
3)I bought a complete Fel-pro gasket set when I did mine. The oil pan gasket tore so I used almost all of them except the head gaskets.
4) Water pump and thermostat. They'll be off already to change the timing set. A Gates water pump comes with the metal pipe for the heater hose. There's a bypass hose that should be replaced also.
5) Double roller timing set. At 147k yours is stretched. It made a big difference in how my truck ran. Your almost to it when fixing the plenum gasket.
6) A block heater if you live in a cold climate and don't keep the truck in a garage.
7) CAT, only if it's plugged with oil from the leaking plenum gasket.
8) Check idler pulleys and belt tensioner for smooth operation.
The list isn't in any particular order. Use Mopar sensors or I like Standard Motor Products, the sensors from the parts stores seem to cause as many problems as they fix. NGK or Autolite regular copper spark plugs. PCV valve is a Mopar only thing, the after market ones have the wrong flow rate IIRC. I have no idea what you can afford, but this would have your truck running well for a long time. Hopefully others will comment with their thoughts. Start with a good diagnosis of the problem first though. Check out Rock Auto for some prices.
With the age/ mileage of your truck, if you need the plenum fixed and have the money, I would consider......
1) A new dist cap, rotor, plugs, and maybe wires. It's very easy to change with the intake removed.
2) Replace the crank sensor, IAC, and coolant temp sensors, they are common problems on our trucks and yours are probably original.
3)I bought a complete Fel-pro gasket set when I did mine. The oil pan gasket tore so I used almost all of them except the head gaskets.
4) Water pump and thermostat. They'll be off already to change the timing set. A Gates water pump comes with the metal pipe for the heater hose. There's a bypass hose that should be replaced also.
5) Double roller timing set. At 147k yours is stretched. It made a big difference in how my truck ran. Your almost to it when fixing the plenum gasket.
6) A block heater if you live in a cold climate and don't keep the truck in a garage.
7) CAT, only if it's plugged with oil from the leaking plenum gasket.
8) Check idler pulleys and belt tensioner for smooth operation.
The list isn't in any particular order. Use Mopar sensors or I like Standard Motor Products, the sensors from the parts stores seem to cause as many problems as they fix. NGK or Autolite regular copper spark plugs. PCV valve is a Mopar only thing, the after market ones have the wrong flow rate IIRC. I have no idea what you can afford, but this would have your truck running well for a long time. Hopefully others will comment with their thoughts. Start with a good diagnosis of the problem first though. Check out Rock Auto for some prices.
#10