Sure, just have a bucket handy for the water in the hose and rad. You'll still drain enough to get below the t-stat level. Then move alt. and the ac lines and that bracket and the housing should snake on out. Extensions are a must. Use thin layer of whatever RTV you like. I've had the fancy gray "waterpump" stuff leak and the cheap black stuff not. So who knows. Never bought blue.

Once had a shop swap t-stats and they were back with my keys in about 10 mins. Couldn't believe it but it was done and ran for about 7 years. So there must be some quick ways.

 

one thing i discovered after having your exact problem...out of desperation I used NO SEALER AT ALL...just install the stat with the gasket only, mine hasn't leaked a drop since...go figgur?!?!?!

 

I usually apply, barely finger tight, then wait an hour for it to set before torquing. Otherwise it mostly squishes out the sides.

None. It's actually a detraction, as it lets coolant flow to the rad when the truck is trying to warm up. They all bleed air. Some are obvious, like having wiggle pins, then some have v notches or other openings where you can't really see em.

 

Tip:
For the fastest way to bleed air out of the system you can take 2 aspirin and open the t-stat and stick them in the t-stat to hold it opened and they will dissolve and not hurt the system at all.

 

Will my truck be less of a headache using that method?

 

LOL! I never saw that one coming