t-case issue/98 ram, 5.9L 4x4 w/np231d- Opened it up, can't find the prob
#11
01-20-2018, 09:23 AM
Jlake, thx! Did what you said. Used 14mm to move selector. Youre right. Ball went into each detente, and it went in the same in each gear. So... they're NOT "triangles". I see! hehehe
Went in to each one equally the same. Forks look good too. And fork pads don't even look like they've been in the case for no 248K! I mean, no expert(obviously) but those fork pads are newish lookin. Can they look that good after 240k? Not complaining, just REALLY curious!
EVERYTHING looks food in there. I looked at any and everything that came out of this case that's laying on this table. Checked how it all lines up, looked for wear, gaps, angles, looseness, play, give, take, then I set it on FIRE! Jk.
Checked **** like 50 times! I'm putting it back together. Nothing wrong with this t case's inside parts. Nowhere.
Should I replace any seals while it's out? Or that rubber ring on the shafts? At the ends. It didn't leak nowhere prior to removing it. Anyhting you should always do before putting back together no matter what?
That shift linkage and bushings kit come Monday.
Went in to each one equally the same. Forks look good too. And fork pads don't even look like they've been in the case for no 248K! I mean, no expert(obviously) but those fork pads are newish lookin. Can they look that good after 240k? Not complaining, just REALLY curious!
EVERYTHING looks food in there. I looked at any and everything that came out of this case that's laying on this table. Checked how it all lines up, looked for wear, gaps, angles, looseness, play, give, take, then I set it on FIRE! Jk.
Checked **** like 50 times! I'm putting it back together. Nothing wrong with this t case's inside parts. Nowhere.
Should I replace any seals while it's out? Or that rubber ring on the shafts? At the ends. It didn't leak nowhere prior to removing it. Anyhting you should always do before putting back together no matter what?
That shift linkage and bushings kit come Monday.
#12
01-20-2018, 09:29 AM
#13
01-28-2018, 06:09 AM
#14
01-28-2018, 06:16 AM
Thanks Hey You, JLake4130! I remember what the po said it "could stand" to have, back when he was selling it to me! It was a 50 or 100 dollar "leveling" thing. Kit or smthn. Think he knew more than what he told me about truck when selling it to me? HAhaha! (dont have to answer that one)
He had said it didnt HAVE to have one, but it would make it look EXACTLY right. I didnt see anything when looking at it though, so I never bought one. And I think he said it needed them at the front. Would the "unlevelness" create problems later, like this issue it's having? Think I need that SYE thing? I never go off road.
He had said it didnt HAVE to have one, but it would make it look EXACTLY right. I didnt see anything when looking at it though, so I never bought one. And I think he said it needed them at the front. Would the "unlevelness" create problems later, like this issue it's having? Think I need that SYE thing? I never go off road.
#15
01-28-2018, 06:21 AM
Last thing for now as I know I bombarded y'all w questions and haven't given ya any time to reply to any. But when I would drive it, when it popped out of the 2h, it def went into N each time, not 4h. It goes foreward when popping out, towards N and after N is 4L. Ok, so when it pops out of 2h, it immediately starts to grind. Until I stop and pull it back into 2h (then hold the shifter there with my right hand until I get back) until I stop and pull it back into 2h it grinds. Like grrrrrrnnnnnnnnnddddddd. Once back in, holding it there, fine. No noises.
Is it actually going past N and trying to go into 4L making the grinding sound? Like if it pops out and goes up to the next gear which is N, why would N make any sound going into N? Especially that Grrrrrrrnnnnnnnnnddddddddddd until I stop truck and pull it back in 2h. If it goes into neutral, shouldn't there be no grind noise? Like just coast or something? If it were in N, you'd think it would be silent in the case till you put it back into some gear? Like a manual transmission does. I can go 75 mph in my old 2 wheel drive truck that had manual trans, no t case as it was 2 wheel drive, and push the clutch in at 75mph and move it into N and it wouldnt grind, just coast until I put it back into gear or stopped or whatever. The gas pedal just caused the rpm's to rev of course, but no grinding.
Just wondering stuff here.
If you were going 30 mph on regular pavement, and then you took you shifter and moved it into N(on purpose), would it grind? Make the grind sound? Until you stop, or get it down to like 5mph or less, and then move it back into 2h, or whatever gear you wanted, is it supposed to grind on you? ahhhh! Getting to many scenarios going thru my head. Anyway, that was the last thing I thought of, just wanted to throw it out to u so I didnt leave anything out that might help you figure anything out without physically being here, w truck. Thanks, I appreciate anything y'all got. Want a pic or 2 of anything? thx
Is it actually going past N and trying to go into 4L making the grinding sound? Like if it pops out and goes up to the next gear which is N, why would N make any sound going into N? Especially that Grrrrrrrnnnnnnnnnddddddddddd until I stop truck and pull it back in 2h. If it goes into neutral, shouldn't there be no grind noise? Like just coast or something? If it were in N, you'd think it would be silent in the case till you put it back into some gear? Like a manual transmission does. I can go 75 mph in my old 2 wheel drive truck that had manual trans, no t case as it was 2 wheel drive, and push the clutch in at 75mph and move it into N and it wouldnt grind, just coast until I put it back into gear or stopped or whatever. The gas pedal just caused the rpm's to rev of course, but no grinding.
Just wondering stuff here.
If you were going 30 mph on regular pavement, and then you took you shifter and moved it into N(on purpose), would it grind? Make the grind sound? Until you stop, or get it down to like 5mph or less, and then move it back into 2h, or whatever gear you wanted, is it supposed to grind on you? ahhhh! Getting to many scenarios going thru my head. Anyway, that was the last thing I thought of, just wanted to throw it out to u so I didnt leave anything out that might help you figure anything out without physically being here, w truck. Thanks, I appreciate anything y'all got. Want a pic or 2 of anything? thx
#16
01-28-2018, 06:23 AM
The linkage could have been bad not fully going into 2wd. To adjust it all you do is loosen the bolt on the rod (it's under the truck by the transfer case) going to the shifter handle in the cab then adjust.
#17
01-28-2018, 08:40 PM
MoparFanatic21, Correct, grinding because linkage ALL screwed up by the time I got done trying 50 different adjustments! I cant believe I never got it in the right spot ONE TIME! I was all over the place. And not once did I get "lucky" when adjusting that rod. Got 'er NOW though! And...HAPPY!
If I would've gotten it in the right spot and it had quit popping out of 2H, I'd have never had to take that t-case out, open it up, take it all apart, and put it all back together again! Stupid!!
But then again, I can rebuild an NP231 now. I can take em out, put em in. I know how the vac system works, how to trouble shoot LOTS of crap I never knew about 4wd's and I learned almost everything I needed to know. Sort of like it was "meant to be" or smthn! I cant say enough about this site. I know I get on couple yall's nerves sometimes with freakin longggg a**, drawn out posts, not just this tcase issue I had but all the other ones I started since got this Ram last year. But y'all still continue to deal. Cant believe it sometimes. And thank you all for that.
If I would've gotten it in the right spot and it had quit popping out of 2H, I'd have never had to take that t-case out, open it up, take it all apart, and put it all back together again! Stupid!!
But then again, I can rebuild an NP231 now. I can take em out, put em in. I know how the vac system works, how to trouble shoot LOTS of crap I never knew about 4wd's and I learned almost everything I needed to know. Sort of like it was "meant to be" or smthn! I cant say enough about this site. I know I get on couple yall's nerves sometimes with freakin longggg a**, drawn out posts, not just this tcase issue I had but all the other ones I started since got this Ram last year. But y'all still continue to deal. Cant believe it sometimes. And thank you all for that.
#18
01-28-2018, 09:12 PM
Fanatic21, Yes, I def want whatever there is to read and any personal opinions you got that I can get!
No Sye for this truck! For sure. But, did consider that "posilock" thing while I was havin those shifting, grinding, t-case problems. Now that everything's back good, I don't even think I want that anymore now.
I don't 4 wheel hardly Ever. Just wanted it to work right though. Since CAD, vacuum, shifting, 4wd light coming on like its supposed to in 4L, going back off in 2H, etc, etc is all working good now, I think I need to leave it all alone. For now.
I did replace all the seals like HeyYou said to do, and I bought a new trans mount from azone(like 30 bucks) before putting it all back in, but that was it.
Oh yea, the rear drive shaft's u-joints were bad too, so I bought new and put those on as well. 1 was really wobbly!
But...can or should I put 1 1/2 or 2" leveling spacers on it? In fronts? Like without doing any harm to anything on it? Like the sway bar links, tie rods, ball joints, stuff like that? It has those 33's and they rub a tiny bit at full lock.
Might make it look better? Currently looks like this-
No Sye for this truck! For sure. But, did consider that "posilock" thing while I was havin those shifting, grinding, t-case problems. Now that everything's back good, I don't even think I want that anymore now.
I don't 4 wheel hardly Ever. Just wanted it to work right though. Since CAD, vacuum, shifting, 4wd light coming on like its supposed to in 4L, going back off in 2H, etc, etc is all working good now, I think I need to leave it all alone. For now.
I did replace all the seals like HeyYou said to do, and I bought a new trans mount from azone(like 30 bucks) before putting it all back in, but that was it.
Oh yea, the rear drive shaft's u-joints were bad too, so I bought new and put those on as well. 1 was really wobbly!
But...can or should I put 1 1/2 or 2" leveling spacers on it? In fronts? Like without doing any harm to anything on it? Like the sway bar links, tie rods, ball joints, stuff like that? It has those 33's and they rub a tiny bit at full lock.
Might make it look better? Currently looks like this-
#19
01-28-2018, 09:26 PM
Heres pic of other side. No flowers!.
To make it look better, I'll get the 1 1/2 or 2" leveling kit, from somewhere, if it needs it. Like for looks, or whatever. If that doesnt cause crazy issues with other things, like strain the suspension and stuff.
I don't work out of it really(had gotten that other truck for that, the 07 Ram, 2wd). Just want this one to look better if possible. And I wanted to paint it. Black again. Willing to go Maaco, if that's even worth it. I just want it to look as good as it can but for not a fortune?
To make it look better, I'll get the 1 1/2 or 2" leveling kit, from somewhere, if it needs it. Like for looks, or whatever. If that doesnt cause crazy issues with other things, like strain the suspension and stuff.
I don't work out of it really(had gotten that other truck for that, the 07 Ram, 2wd). Just want this one to look better if possible. And I wanted to paint it. Black again. Willing to go Maaco, if that's even worth it. I just want it to look as good as it can but for not a fortune?
#20
01-29-2018, 03:19 AM
MoparFanatic21, Correct, grinding because linkage ALL screwed up by the time I got done trying 50 different adjustments! I cant believe I never got it in the right spot ONE TIME! I was all over the place. And not once did I get "lucky" when adjusting that rod. Got 'er NOW though! And...HAPPY!
If I would've gotten it in the right spot and it had quit popping out of 2H, I'd have never had to take that t-case out, open it up, take it all apart, and put it all back together again! Stupid!!
But then again, I can rebuild an NP231 now. I can take em out, put em in. I know how the vac system works, how to trouble shoot LOTS of crap I never knew about 4wd's and I learned almost everything I needed to know. Sort of like it was "meant to be" or smthn! I cant say enough about this site. I know I get on couple yall's nerves sometimes with freakin longggg a**, drawn out posts, not just this tcase issue I had but all the other ones I started since got this Ram last year. But y'all still continue to deal. Cant believe it sometimes. And thank you all for that.
If I would've gotten it in the right spot and it had quit popping out of 2H, I'd have never had to take that t-case out, open it up, take it all apart, and put it all back together again! Stupid!!
But then again, I can rebuild an NP231 now. I can take em out, put em in. I know how the vac system works, how to trouble shoot LOTS of crap I never knew about 4wd's and I learned almost everything I needed to know. Sort of like it was "meant to be" or smthn! I cant say enough about this site. I know I get on couple yall's nerves sometimes with freakin longggg a**, drawn out posts, not just this tcase issue I had but all the other ones I started since got this Ram last year. But y'all still continue to deal. Cant believe it sometimes. And thank you all for that.
It sits high really can't tell from the pic. Next is 45in tires. I can post links to SYE info and again even if you extreme off road (which I do) I still wouldn't recommend an SYE. Now the posi-lock is junk in my opinion. It's hard to engage when stuck or the truck is unlevel, plus I don't like drilling holes in my firewall. The factory setup is very reliable, and when I had it I replaced the hard lines with stainless steel so they wouldn't rust and used a very high grade rubber hoses. Since then I upgraded to an electronic shift fork motor and got rid of the vacuum, but still like the vacuum setup. My truck is a 2500 with 4th gen tow mirrors and front bumper and soon to have a 6.4L Hemi