Timing is set by the ECM n can't be "mechanically" altered. I still say use the Sherlock Holmes principle, a crack troubleshooter in his own right, n eliminate the impossible first. If your crank to cam timing is good and you're sure that the dist cap to spark plug wiring is set up correctly and you're 90 degrees off according to your rotor position, then try moving all the wires 90 degrees on the dist cap until they line up with the rotor whilst the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke if you don't wanna (n I don't blame you a bit) move the distributor assy. But that's making the presumption that everything else is in it's proper position and timed correctly.

 

I'm confused, why do you need timing reset? If the distributor isn't pointing in the correct direction, that's a mechanical issue, not programming.

 

HeyYou, I think it's more likely that the OP mistakenly reported his rotor at 90 degrees out. That is a highly unlikely scenario. However, if the rotor is 90 degrees out of phase with his crankshaft position, it IS a timing issue and a mechanical issue. It's a mechanical timing issue. But you are correct...you won't likely be able to correct 90 degrees of advance/retard in software. OP, I'd take a SERIOUS, patient look at your firing order, and where you've actually plugged which plug wire, on the distributor.

 

 

I've forgotten, have you replaced the crank sensor?

 

If you have, do you have or can you get your hands on a nice scanner with the capability of graphing individual/selected engine operations? What you're looking for is crank and cam sensor return to the ECM. When you turn your key to start your marvel of technology, you tell the ECM...I wanna go...the ECM gives it's marching orders to the ASD circuit. The ASD, in turn, turns on the voltage to things like , fuel pump n spark plug coil. If you've got these things and the crank and cam sensors giving the ECM their info, AND the proper mechanical trappings (crank/cam/distributor timing, compression, fuel n air is able to come in n go out of each cylinder without overwhelming restrictions) you should have a running engine.

 

I have to wonder if something dropped down the Throttle Body while the engine was being worked on...a long shot, but as has been already stated, if it's getting fuel, air, spark, compression, and it's timed correctly, it should start right up (assuming the sensors aren't at fault.) The fact that the engine tries to start at all has me doubting a Crankshaft Position Sensor issue. If it were me, I'd have reached for the scanner long ago in this process. Oh, WardallJ, did you actually CHANGE the spark plug wires? If not, try cranking it over at night (in the dark) while someone looks under the hood. You're looking for arcs coming from the spark plug wires, along their length. Once again, a long shot, but it's a 20 second test.

 

Is this the firing order you are using? I still think you might have bad gas.