Let us know how it turns out.

 

Also when you put the eClip back on you can use a small piece of copper wire to hold it while getting in place, like 2-3 strands of a 16 gauge stranded wire. I use a small screw driver to push it on. Afterwards when the eClip is on, you an pull the copper wire gently off.

 

That's a good idea. I have a bunch of wire hanging around including baling wire. I'll keep that trick in mind when I do the e-clip.

Still waiting on parts. Cascade and harbor freight are taking their sweet time on shipping my orders.

 

Started working on it. Pulled the linkage, pulled the pan. Took out all valve body bolts except one, dropped it down--*%&*%&*%&*%& with the e-clip got it free, lost it on cardboard, girlfriend found it. Nothing found in pan like ball bearings or anchors, except quite a bit shavings on the magnet. Pics included. I'm taking a well deserved break. Going to clean valve body with some brake fluid as I see little bits of metal around the metal surfaces of the valve body.

Bench-work next: solenoids/transducer, etc on the valve body. Then the front and rear bands adjustment--then put her all back together and pray to god!--hahah

Pay no mind to the harbor freight jack stands--when I'm done with this job, they are going back. I'm still alive, but I just don't trust them--the post barely move up before it it collapses down and the movement is a little too nil for my comfort zone. And I would really much rather have a locking pin--will return them for set of strong way double pin jackstands, they look nicer and around same price. Will update when all done--right in the middle of it, catching a breather.

* I so lucked out on he safety switch. To remove it calls for a 1 inch deep socket. I had one, but the SKs have a reinforcment inside which thickens wall of socket right where you hit the hex head on the switch and of course not on far enough to turn. I didn't have a 1 inch that would work, but I had a 1 1/16 oil pressure sender socket that worked nicely--it was a little big, but it still engaged enough to tighten--and wasnt too tight anyway, so will just match it when I reinstall so I don't round anything off.

 

Magnet really doesn't look that bad. It is doing it's job.

 

Got the governor/tcc-od solenoids installed, accumulator spring from kit, transducer all installed, and fresh gaskets. Tomorrow will adjust the bands, and install VB and clean and install pan. Looks like around 8-10 quarts needed, off to Wally World tmw.

I made a small error on torque values for the solenoid and 3-4 accumulator plate torx screws. I think they are supposed to be at 35 inch pounds, but I set them to 50 inch pounds, but I figured that isn't a big deal. I need to double check but I think all 10 VB bolts should be set to 130 inch pounds. That accumulator plate that covers the the 3-4 spring, I noticed that the inside face of the plate (which contacts that spring in the bore), the plate has an indention/wear groove depression where the spring makes contact--you can see and feel it--hopefully it's not an issue.
* It doesn't matter which way the governor solonoid gasket is installed, does it? I think one side was grey, and the other had brand/letting on it--I think I installed it with lettering facing up when looking down from above--but then again, I think I remember messing with it and because of the way of the non symmetrical boltholes(4) + 2 torx, everything only lines up one way, and I think the gasket printing was facing me and not down but if it only goes one 1 way....lol.

 

May want to pick up a drain plug for your trans as well. Makes doing this particular job a LOT less messy.

 

Iv'e been using Harbor Freight jack stands for the last 20 years or so with out any problems. I work on cars on a regular basis. Had a BMW X5 up them for 7 months and the 01 Dodge pickup for 18 months. Get them up and shake the vehicle vigorously to see if it falls. If done right it won't fall. Make sure your stands are equipped to handle the weight. I used 2, 6 ton set of jack stands, that's 12 tones and I know our trucks aren't 12 tons. 3 tons maybe for a 1/2 ton. My new set (3 years old) of Harbor Freight 6 ton set has pins for locking, if yours are new they should have the pins too. My Harbor Freight Jack from 22 years ago still works, but I went out and bought a Harbor Freight quick pump one. DO NOT work on a vehicle with only the jack for support.

 

I'm having a problem. After finally able to put eclip back on, and secure VB back to transmission, I am able to shift into any of the gears, but if I put in park, it seems the rear wheels still rotate. I have tried removing the eclip and just putting the rod in there for it to catch and it does, but I don't know how I can do that and install the VB, etc. I need help. I get to this juncture as I finally get everything hooked up, linkage, etc. but keep pan off just to see if it goes in park and locks the wheels before finishing everything, I'm glad I did because it doesn't seem to go into park. I haven't hooked up safety switch or electrical connectors, just the linkage.


* Ive been setting the gear to L to install the eclip and VB.which matches the gear indicator on the steering wheel

 

See what the procedure in the service manual says about it. You can get one here. (if you don't have it already.)