Me too! For the first 5-8 miles I was grannying it, lol. Then took it out on the highway, and simulated merging/passing (kickdown/flooring it) and it downshifted into gear, wonderfully, and it would shift normally when at speed/let off gas. Very happy.

 

It worked for me! Or at least prolonged everything until I need a rebuild. When I did the band adjustment I did rear band @ 72 in lbs then back off 2 turns. The front bands @ 72 in lbs, then back off 2 turns (maybe even 1 7/8). I didn't have a way to hold the torx adjuster while tightening the locknut, so when I tightened it, I think the adjuster moved 1/16-1/8 of a turn when I had it set @ 2 turns, hence it might have ended up a little less than 2 turns. I i used a dab of white thread sealant on the top of the adjuster bolt for reference of turns. But I must have worn bands or something because the front band adjustment torx screw is inset the locknut by about 2-2.5 threads--before the work, it stuck out maybe 3 threads beyond the locknut.

 

Awesome.

 

Not to be nitpicking, as overall it is shifting way better than before. However, one thing I noticed was that when kickdown/low gear take off occurs, the truck has a "vtech" like rpm surge but not slipping. It will rev up as it's accelerating then it will surge more rpms more quickly to the shift. Sometimes at the end of kickdown to upshift (3/4-full throttle) it will do this weird shift slip hunt flutter and go back/continue into the current gear it should be in. But don't get me wrong, it's driving a lot better than before--But I'm just naturally curious if it's just due to overall wear of bands. or maybe something other internal to valve body? One thing I noticed when I had the VB out was that along the outer outside edge of the metal--along the sides--I saw little tiny cracks all up and down the sides of it--which makes be wonder if the valve-body itself as a whole unit, has seen better days. In hindsight, I prob would not put a new valve body in, because-I dunno--I didn't think it was *that* compromised. I'll still look at rebuilding options once that time comes.

On an unrelated note: All my other cars run 5w-30 oil and I kinda sorta mistakingly assumed the Dodge took the same oil weight, but officially it seems 5w-30 is recommended for colder climates and 10w-30 for warmer climates/summer. It doesn't get 100deg where I am too often usually 75-high 80s, with some hot days (90 maybe little bit 100s 3-4 times during the summer, etc) here and there but usually around 80s--the 5w vs 10w really shouldn't matter right? The 30w of a 5w-30 oil should still be fine --if not virtually the same @ ambient temp I should assume? I almost always use Chevron Supreme conventional oil. I going with the larger 51515 filter.

 

Run it. While the engine is warming up it will change viscosity up to 30w. The thinner the viscosity the easier it is to pump oil through the system, especially with new cars and their tighter specifications, some taking 0w-20. I have 5w-30 in my truck if that eases your mind. I don't haul much stuff, just use it for driving and Home Depot runs.

 

Perfect. Yea this truck isn't a daily driver. Dump runs, Home Depot, don't want to take my own car, etc.

Thank you! I just wanted to be sure.