Convert 1995 ram v10 coil pack connector to 1997+
#51
#52
I re-gapped the spark plugs and it honestly wasn't too bad. I think that I've messed with them so much recently that I've figured out how to do it. I also have a 95' with a manual, so there may be less stuff in the way. It didn't fix the problem at all, but I did notice a lot of cold fouling on nearly all the plugs but a couple of them seemed much worse than the others. The service manual says this could be a clogged air cleaner (which is brand new) or spark plug wires do you think this is a possibility for the misfire? I should add that the wires were replaced with performance wires at the same time the coil packs were replaced. I also found the old coil packs in the garage, now I will just need to find the old style connectors online and see if I can convert it back to test out the coil pack.
Last edited by Stallwart; 08-03-2018 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Add Content
#53
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...on-module.html
Just came across this, the 94/95 have a separate ignition control module mounted on the fender for the 4-pack. The newer ones have integrated ICM's into the coil pack, that's my understanding at least. Any thoughts on how to make it work, apart from switching back to the stock packs? Can I just bypass the ignition control module and go right to the coil pack? I'm talking with the manufacturer to see if he has any ideas on this as well.
Just came across this, the 94/95 have a separate ignition control module mounted on the fender for the 4-pack. The newer ones have integrated ICM's into the coil pack, that's my understanding at least. Any thoughts on how to make it work, apart from switching back to the stock packs? Can I just bypass the ignition control module and go right to the coil pack? I'm talking with the manufacturer to see if he has any ideas on this as well.
#54
#55
@HeyYou I know this was 7 years ago, but from that thread I linked you mentioned that the newer style coil packs have the ignition control module built into them. Seems like the PCM controls the 6 pack and the ICM controls the 4 pack. On the newer style do the coil packs both have their own module, does only the 4 pack, or do both the 4 and 6 packs have their own built in modules?
I really appreciate your help! My dad is planning on towing a couple hundred miles next weekend, so I'm hoping to have it fixed before then, so he doesn't have to rent or borrow a truck. I can't find the old pigtails that we cut off, so I'm going to have to find them online and order new ones, which I don't think will get here in time for me to install on the truck. If I can just bypass the 4 pack ICM I will go that route. Hopefully the Screamin Demon guys will get back to me soon to let me know if their coil packs have built in ICM's or not.
I really appreciate your help! My dad is planning on towing a couple hundred miles next weekend, so I'm hoping to have it fixed before then, so he doesn't have to rent or borrow a truck. I can't find the old pigtails that we cut off, so I'm going to have to find them online and order new ones, which I don't think will get here in time for me to install on the truck. If I can just bypass the 4 pack ICM I will go that route. Hopefully the Screamin Demon guys will get back to me soon to let me know if their coil packs have built in ICM's or not.
#56
#57
Have you checked the wiring between the ADS, ECU and the coils? Not for sure how those instructions will match up with the V10 setup. (same wire colors?)
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/Fault-43.htm
You stated earlier that it was only misfiring once it warmed up. Is that still the case or is it all the time?
From doing some reading around, that code seems really generic. Basically just a misfire code (multiple misfire) which could be just about anything that would cause one. Have you checked resistance on your new plug wires? Have you replaced the O2 sensors and checked the wiring to them?
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/Fault-43.htm
You stated earlier that it was only misfiring once it warmed up. Is that still the case or is it all the time?
From doing some reading around, that code seems really generic. Basically just a misfire code (multiple misfire) which could be just about anything that would cause one. Have you checked resistance on your new plug wires? Have you replaced the O2 sensors and checked the wiring to them?
Last edited by racefan41; 08-04-2018 at 07:46 AM.
#58
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Looking for an ICM built into the coils is a red herring. The ICM for the 4 post coil is a '94-'95 only item, it went away w/the OBDII change in '96. I don't understand the design, but it appears that the more limited logic capabilities of the original computer setup, the amount of data that could be handled through the bus, led the engineers to delegate some firing responsibilities to the ICM. It can't be bypassed. The coils in OBDII setups are completely handled by the computer.
The point of the iridium plugs I believe is that the larger gap allowed by, and higher out put of, the DUI coils erodes the electrode of the spark plug. Ask Davis Unified.
I've had 3 high temp misfire episodes over the years, the first 2 were non-Dodge and were solved by crank or cam sensor replacement, they would heat and intermittently fail, sometimes leading to complete shutdown. I also had a problem with my '95 V-10. Cylinders 6 and 8 had slightly warped/burned valves that would run okay cold but start randomly misfiring at temperature sometimes becoming a consistent dead hole. I never solved the reason in my mind why they went so bad, I had a high cylinder temperature problem, i.e. burned sparkplugs, but part of my theory is this.
My truck pulled up lame on a road trip towing my car hauler. After pulling the end out of 1 of my expensive Granatelli plug wires on the side of the road trying to find the misfire/weak cylinder, I rigged up some little gizmos that allowed me to isolate the misfiring cylinders with the engine running. Cylinders1,6,8 were weak, with 8 having a completely burned plug. I keep tools and spares for everything possible. Spare plug and wire got me back on the road but did not fix the misfire problem I'd been experiencing. A driveway leakdown test told me I had bad valves, so I tore the heads down. The valve guide clearance in my engine at 280,000 miles was tight, like factory new, unbelievable. Some of the valves were tough to get out, there was just enough varnish on the stems they would not pass through. So my theory became the valves would hang when hot, leading to a misfire.
Assuming it can handle a 10 cylinder engine, I think the old school approach of using an oscilliscope is dead nuts on. I also think you may have more than one problem.
I have a set of DUI coils and wires, along with a new set of heads and a reground cam, I'm fixing to add to my rebuilt short block, so this thread is interesting.
Good luck.
The point of the iridium plugs I believe is that the larger gap allowed by, and higher out put of, the DUI coils erodes the electrode of the spark plug. Ask Davis Unified.
I've had 3 high temp misfire episodes over the years, the first 2 were non-Dodge and were solved by crank or cam sensor replacement, they would heat and intermittently fail, sometimes leading to complete shutdown. I also had a problem with my '95 V-10. Cylinders 6 and 8 had slightly warped/burned valves that would run okay cold but start randomly misfiring at temperature sometimes becoming a consistent dead hole. I never solved the reason in my mind why they went so bad, I had a high cylinder temperature problem, i.e. burned sparkplugs, but part of my theory is this.
My truck pulled up lame on a road trip towing my car hauler. After pulling the end out of 1 of my expensive Granatelli plug wires on the side of the road trying to find the misfire/weak cylinder, I rigged up some little gizmos that allowed me to isolate the misfiring cylinders with the engine running. Cylinders1,6,8 were weak, with 8 having a completely burned plug. I keep tools and spares for everything possible. Spare plug and wire got me back on the road but did not fix the misfire problem I'd been experiencing. A driveway leakdown test told me I had bad valves, so I tore the heads down. The valve guide clearance in my engine at 280,000 miles was tight, like factory new, unbelievable. Some of the valves were tough to get out, there was just enough varnish on the stems they would not pass through. So my theory became the valves would hang when hot, leading to a misfire.
Assuming it can handle a 10 cylinder engine, I think the old school approach of using an oscilliscope is dead nuts on. I also think you may have more than one problem.
I have a set of DUI coils and wires, along with a new set of heads and a reground cam, I'm fixing to add to my rebuilt short block, so this thread is interesting.
Good luck.
#59
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By the way, the upper intake is indeed a plenum, big open box, kinda like the kegger of the V-8. The lower intake is what you'd expect of an old V-8, individual runners. I don't know if the gasket between them is known to fail, I doubt it, but it is buried deep, maybe hard to check. I will also tell you that it is easy to crack/split/wreck this gasket if you are lifting that giant *** tuned length upper intake into place with the engine in your truck, so be careful.
#60