96 and up trucks, the balance weights were on the flexplate. If there is a weight on the torque converter, its to balance the CONVERTER. Don't take it off. So far as I know, there is no difference in the t/c's between the two engines.... maybe the 5.2 has a slightly higher stall?

 

Go for the higher stall, you'll appreciate it at stoplights n going uphill from a dead start, especially when you're towing stuff!

 

Glad you're making progress. There is a service bulletin about plug wire routing, probably in the DIY section.

 

Can someone explain how the 5.2 is "internally" balanced but uses a weighted harmonic balancer on the OUTSIDE while the 5.9 just uses a pulley and is deemed "externally" balanced?

I saw the difference when the store sold me a 360 crank pulley in error. They are significantly different from each other.

Don't mean to hijack but I've been wondering for awhile.

 

On an internally balanced motor, the harmonic dampner (it isn't really a balancer in this instance, it is more to absorb undesired vibration) is neutral balance, as is the flywheel. On the externally balanced motor, it's best to balance all three pieces together, but, very few manufacturers actually do. They have specs for the balance of the individual pieces, and adding/removing weight is how they get there. In this particular instance, the 360 balancer has material removed to get it to where they want it..... the 5.2 balancer, *should* be neutral balance......

 

I've a 96/318 n my harmonic balancer has holes drilled around the perimeter (factory), but I've also an NV3500 tranny hooked up so maybe that's the difference?

 

Trans shouldn't matter. It's just engine balance they worry about.

 

They drilled the holes because it was heavy on one side. They corrected it to neutral.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I put a 5.2 pcm in it from the same year truck that had a 5.2 auto. I know I need to get flashed at the dealer. but it runs like crap when I drive it up and down the driveway. I did adjust the distributor (or tried to) and it runs better but still not good enough for me to trust it 15 miles to the dealer. Apparently my brother did move the distributor after the swap because it was running horrible. Will a timing light work to get it close using the timing marks at front of the motor? It is mechanically in time just wondering if it would help get the fuel sync close. Or am I just wishful thinking?lol

 

There's a mark in the distributor that you line the rotor up with while the balancer is lined up with the 0 mark. I don't think the timing light would pick up the signal from the injector wire and there is no spec telling us where to set the #1 injector according to the timing marks.