I'll have to check out your other videos. Let us know what products you use and if anything doesn't work well. I just bought a 95 2500 and want to start cleaning up the frame and axles. I'm trying to figure out which products to use. I haven't been impressed with POR-15 we used on my daughter's truck. I'll be watching to see what you do with your truck.

 

So we did a compression test today. We used a rental tool from the auto parts store that had a 14" long tube. (its seems that those take a little longer to fill the tube) When we cranked it for 5-8 seconds we got the following readings: 140, 140, 145, 150, 150, 140, 150, 145 At first we weren't cranking it that long. (only one second or two seconds) The first readings were a bit lower like 130. I don't think we cranked long enough though.

That isn't the firing order btw, We did from front to back on the drivers side then front to back on the passenger side.

Anyway the compression seems ok. A better gauge might even show slightly higher numbers. The tube would spin so you couldn't really tighten it very tight though it didn't leak. (which probably means it was on all the way)

 

Sounds good 2Bit. I will post anything interesting I find here. I haven't used POR-15 but I have heard it is really good. The only downside is that it can't tolerate light. (like sunlight I guess) They sell paint to cover the POR-15 or I have heard of people just using rustoleum over the top. I watched a video where a guy was using some rustoleum product that is designed to cover rust. (one of those Cummins Ram videos) The guy bought it by the case and swore by it. At least now we know the compression is good. Also we upgraded the plugs and got lots of grease in the boots. I didn't use any antiseize on the plugs so that could be an issue later.

 

During the compression test we ended up breaking one of the old plugs. It had been on there for 6 months. The old plugs were Champion 3436. They new double platinum ones were Champion 7436.

Surprisingly, the truck runs better. I notice the idle is smoother. Maybe one of the old plugs were bad or maybe 3436 isn't the right plug for the truck. Who knows. I am happy with the idle at this point, it is super smooth.

I am worried about the AC compressor though. It makes noises and sometimes it makes a squeaking noise. I may have to order a new clutch if I can find one.

 

3436 is single platinum. The platinum plugs last longer but take more energy to make a spark. Most guys are running NGK or Autolite copper plugs. Some trucks don't like the platinums. I'm glad your is running good now. I don't see an A/C clutch on rock auto, but the bearing can be replaced.

 

I used both POR-15 and Rostoleum Black Tractor Paint and I will say for the money the Rostoleum is the way to go. What I did was stopped the truck to bare frame. Used a wire brush, then a sander to sand it down after that used a ridr reformer. Then painted a zinc rust stop primer followed by the tractor paint, then topped with a hereby duty clear made for engines.
You can print over it with whatever you like or use POR-15 top coat in my opinion not worth the money.

 

I misread your post on POR15 2Bit. You were not impressed. I haven't used it but it is good to know. It is pretty expensive so if it isn't all that good, I would rather try something else.

MoparFanatic21 I looked up Rust Reformer. It sounds like a rust converter. I may have to try that. I have used cans of rust converter but they were pretty expensive. I will look into the tractor paint.

My friend is a professional house painter and he swears by Penetrol. I think it is normally used as an additive and is clear. (it evens out brush strokes or roller lines as well as protecting against rust) I'm not sure if this is good for cars though. He suggested using it on cars and steel garage doors.

I need to take the bed off again to really do a good job on the frame. I was worried that the cab corners and rocker panels may rust but I took a look under the truck again and it looks great. Our drivers door rusted but I believe that was due to a bad belt moulding on the door. (which I changed)

 

You are correct rust reformer/converter something. You don't need to do that but I just wanted to make sure there was zero rust left. It's been like this for 4 tests and still no rust on the frame.

 

If you could remember the names of the products you used, I sure would appreciate it.

 

I still have some left in my garage I'll post them up probably tonight (Eastern Time)