10.8 Miles Per Gallon
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Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 48
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Just a quick update: I replaced the Bosch 13280 precat O2 sensor with a NTK 23151 based on a suggestion from 2Bit. Thanks bud, it idles much smoother now!! The Bosch was only a few months old. It wasn't bad.
It actually idled decent before but it is much better. I have had good luck with Bosch pads and rotors and other parts in the past but that suggestion was excellent. I wonder if we get a little MPG boost from running in closed loop now.
I also put in a Mopar PCV valve. At first I was going to say that the suction noise went away. It did seem to stop when it is cold but when it warms up I still hear it. I am starting to think that may be the PCV valve grommet. It could still be the aftermarket intake. (Spectre) We will get a new grommet and try it. If that doesn't do it, we may put the stock intake back on a test it out.
I may actually swap out the double platinum plugs for copper if you think that would help it.
The kid's friend wants us to fix up body damage on a 2004 Accord. We are taking that one and spending the profit on more rust free panels for the truck. (rear drivers door and passenger front fender)
We sanded, and used body filler on the supports for the step bar. Those are now rust free and match the truck. We are putting those on once we get some zinc or stainless bolts and nuts.
The kid is getting a job soon so he wants headers and high flow cat first. Then maybe the muffler and the rest of the exhaust. He may ask the teacher at the school to do this. (the kids like projects like exhaust) I don't like rust in my eye so I may have them do it. I see a timing chain in my future since the teacher didn't want to do that one.
We want to get all of the leaks out of this since I have a new driveway. (though the leaks aren't too bad yet)
It actually idled decent before but it is much better. I have had good luck with Bosch pads and rotors and other parts in the past but that suggestion was excellent. I wonder if we get a little MPG boost from running in closed loop now.
I also put in a Mopar PCV valve. At first I was going to say that the suction noise went away. It did seem to stop when it is cold but when it warms up I still hear it. I am starting to think that may be the PCV valve grommet. It could still be the aftermarket intake. (Spectre) We will get a new grommet and try it. If that doesn't do it, we may put the stock intake back on a test it out.
I may actually swap out the double platinum plugs for copper if you think that would help it.
The kid's friend wants us to fix up body damage on a 2004 Accord. We are taking that one and spending the profit on more rust free panels for the truck. (rear drivers door and passenger front fender)
We sanded, and used body filler on the supports for the step bar. Those are now rust free and match the truck. We are putting those on once we get some zinc or stainless bolts and nuts.
The kid is getting a job soon so he wants headers and high flow cat first. Then maybe the muffler and the rest of the exhaust. He may ask the teacher at the school to do this. (the kids like projects like exhaust) I don't like rust in my eye so I may have them do it. I see a timing chain in my future since the teacher didn't want to do that one.
We want to get all of the leaks out of this since I have a new driveway. (though the leaks aren't too bad yet)
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Just a quick update: I replaced the Bosch 13280 precat O2 sensor with a NTK 23151 based on a suggestion from 2Bit. Thanks bud, it idles much smoother now!! The Bosch was only a few months old. It wasn't bad.
It actually idled decent before but it is much better. I have had good luck with Bosch pads and rotors and other parts in the past but that suggestion was excellent. I wonder if we get a little MPG boost from running in closed loop now.
I also put in a Mopar PCV valve. At first I was going to say that the suction noise went away. It did seem to stop when it is cold but when it warms up I still hear it. I am starting to think that may be the PCV valve grommet. It could still be the aftermarket intake. (Spectre) We will get a new grommet and try it. If that doesn't do it, we may put the stock intake back on a test it out.
I may actually swap out the double platinum plugs for copper if you think that would help it.
The kid's friend wants us to fix up body damage on a 2004 Accord. We are taking that one and spending the profit on more rust free panels for the truck. (rear drivers door and passenger front fender)
We sanded, and used body filler on the supports for the step bar. Those are now rust free and match the truck. We are putting those on once we get some zinc or stainless bolts and nuts.
The kid is getting a job soon so he wants headers and high flow cat first. Then maybe the muffler and the rest of the exhaust. He may ask the teacher at the school to do this. (the kids like projects like exhaust) I don't like rust in my eye so I may have them do it. I see a timing chain in my future since the teacher didn't want to do that one.
We want to get all of the leaks out of this since I have a new driveway. (though the leaks aren't too bad yet)
It actually idled decent before but it is much better. I have had good luck with Bosch pads and rotors and other parts in the past but that suggestion was excellent. I wonder if we get a little MPG boost from running in closed loop now.
I also put in a Mopar PCV valve. At first I was going to say that the suction noise went away. It did seem to stop when it is cold but when it warms up I still hear it. I am starting to think that may be the PCV valve grommet. It could still be the aftermarket intake. (Spectre) We will get a new grommet and try it. If that doesn't do it, we may put the stock intake back on a test it out.
I may actually swap out the double platinum plugs for copper if you think that would help it.
The kid's friend wants us to fix up body damage on a 2004 Accord. We are taking that one and spending the profit on more rust free panels for the truck. (rear drivers door and passenger front fender)
We sanded, and used body filler on the supports for the step bar. Those are now rust free and match the truck. We are putting those on once we get some zinc or stainless bolts and nuts.
The kid is getting a job soon so he wants headers and high flow cat first. Then maybe the muffler and the rest of the exhaust. He may ask the teacher at the school to do this. (the kids like projects like exhaust) I don't like rust in my eye so I may have them do it. I see a timing chain in my future since the teacher didn't want to do that one.
We want to get all of the leaks out of this since I have a new driveway. (though the leaks aren't too bad yet)
Professional
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 190
Likes: 2
Urgh I can't believe the site logged me out after typing a big response with my experiences....I'll try to summarize.....
Glad to see the NTK o2 sensor helped, I always heard bosch sensors in general suck bad online -shrug- . I myself recently changed out my o2 sensor to NTK and got a Standard Motor Products new MAP sensor on, my truck started up better and is smoother now too. I swear I bookmarked it but circa 2009 here many people swore even getting new autozone map sensors helped their MPG out, apparently over time the combustion gases/vapors harden up the sensor and make it not read right, it serves a major role in telling the computer how much gas to use iirc... I personally would randomly have a bit of a low idle after replacing both sensors but after about 40 miles it fixed itself as the IAC relearned. IDK how old my iac and tps are personally, they could be original for all I know, maybe changing them out would help me some.
I heard as vehicles get older in general the mpg suffers as stuff gets worn out, after a full tuneup and changing every major MPG contributing sensor out myself, I assume I'm getting about as good as I can with basically stock tires considering I'm sitting on 225k miles on my old OBD1 95 Ram. I do have some gumout high mileage fuel system cleaner in my big ~34 gallon tank now at the moment, going to use this tank up and maybe splurge and make my wallet cry and fill the tank up then just calculate how many gallons I use per 100 miles to determine mpg, as my gas needle tends to read a bit higher than it actually is....I'm sure using AC to not die in this horribly humid and hot Tx summer zaps my mpg some too, I've had my share of mpg woes with my truck myself...I just drive so few miles per year I can't really justify the cost of a new vehicle.
I supposedly have a mopar pcv valve I bought myself online from a good seller but who knows really...rockauto doesn't carry a mopar pcv valve for my truck last I looked, they've probably been long discontinued for our older truck maybe.
By the halls effect sensor in the distributor do you mean the "reluctor or camshaft sensor"? I heard they, as well as the crankshaft sensor can even play into mpg but my truck starts up fine and drives fine so I assume they're ok along with my timing chain...I considered going ahead and changing the chain to a good double roller set but as I don't have any noise or problems I guess mine's ok...oh the joys of getting a cheap used 90s vehicle with no repair history :P
I need to change out a leaking water pump or maybe the gasket is bad, but, I could never find a noobie friendly step by step guide to changing the chain....some swear you gotta make sure the engine is at top dead center, others said that doesn't even matter and you can even move the cogwheels by hand to make the two dots line up then replace them and the chain and be good to go.
Waterpump and finally fixing my loose/sloppy steering wheel are my next priorities myself, I looked at the steering box people said you can just tighten but it's in a very weird spot and angle with not much room to fit a socket from when I eyeballed it....maybe I could do it with a normal wrench? According to this newer gen ram steering slop fix vid you're supposed to loosen the nut while tightening the screw inside but I didn't see a screw on mine....
Glad to see the NTK o2 sensor helped, I always heard bosch sensors in general suck bad online -shrug- . I myself recently changed out my o2 sensor to NTK and got a Standard Motor Products new MAP sensor on, my truck started up better and is smoother now too. I swear I bookmarked it but circa 2009 here many people swore even getting new autozone map sensors helped their MPG out, apparently over time the combustion gases/vapors harden up the sensor and make it not read right, it serves a major role in telling the computer how much gas to use iirc... I personally would randomly have a bit of a low idle after replacing both sensors but after about 40 miles it fixed itself as the IAC relearned. IDK how old my iac and tps are personally, they could be original for all I know, maybe changing them out would help me some.
I heard as vehicles get older in general the mpg suffers as stuff gets worn out, after a full tuneup and changing every major MPG contributing sensor out myself, I assume I'm getting about as good as I can with basically stock tires considering I'm sitting on 225k miles on my old OBD1 95 Ram. I do have some gumout high mileage fuel system cleaner in my big ~34 gallon tank now at the moment, going to use this tank up and maybe splurge and make my wallet cry and fill the tank up then just calculate how many gallons I use per 100 miles to determine mpg, as my gas needle tends to read a bit higher than it actually is....I'm sure using AC to not die in this horribly humid and hot Tx summer zaps my mpg some too, I've had my share of mpg woes with my truck myself...I just drive so few miles per year I can't really justify the cost of a new vehicle.
I supposedly have a mopar pcv valve I bought myself online from a good seller but who knows really...rockauto doesn't carry a mopar pcv valve for my truck last I looked, they've probably been long discontinued for our older truck maybe.
By the halls effect sensor in the distributor do you mean the "reluctor or camshaft sensor"? I heard they, as well as the crankshaft sensor can even play into mpg but my truck starts up fine and drives fine so I assume they're ok along with my timing chain...I considered going ahead and changing the chain to a good double roller set but as I don't have any noise or problems I guess mine's ok...oh the joys of getting a cheap used 90s vehicle with no repair history :P
I need to change out a leaking water pump or maybe the gasket is bad, but, I could never find a noobie friendly step by step guide to changing the chain....some swear you gotta make sure the engine is at top dead center, others said that doesn't even matter and you can even move the cogwheels by hand to make the two dots line up then replace them and the chain and be good to go.
Waterpump and finally fixing my loose/sloppy steering wheel are my next priorities myself, I looked at the steering box people said you can just tighten but it's in a very weird spot and angle with not much room to fit a socket from when I eyeballed it....maybe I could do it with a normal wrench? According to this newer gen ram steering slop fix vid you're supposed to loosen the nut while tightening the screw inside but I didn't see a screw on mine....
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Urgh I can't believe the site logged me out after typing a big response with my experiences....I'll try to summarize.....
Glad to see the NTK o2 sensor helped, I always heard bosch sensors in general suck bad online -shrug- . I myself recently changed out my o2 sensor to NTK and got a Standard Motor Products new MAP sensor on, my truck started up better and is smoother now too. I swear I bookmarked it but circa 2009 here many people swore even getting new autozone map sensors helped their MPG out, apparently over time the combustion gases/vapors harden up the sensor and make it not read right, it serves a major role in telling the computer how much gas to use iirc... I personally would randomly have a bit of a low idle after replacing both sensors but after about 40 miles it fixed itself as the IAC relearned. IDK how old my iac and tps are personally, they could be original for all I know, maybe changing them out would help me some.
I heard as vehicles get older in general the mpg suffers as stuff gets worn out, after a full tuneup and changing every major MPG contributing sensor out myself, I assume I'm getting about as good as I can with basically stock tires considering I'm sitting on 225k miles on my old OBD1 95 Ram. I do have some gumout high mileage fuel system cleaner in my big ~34 gallon tank now at the moment, going to use this tank up and maybe splurge and make my wallet cry and fill the tank up then just calculate how many gallons I use per 100 miles to determine mpg, as my gas needle tends to read a bit higher than it actually is....I'm sure using AC to not die in this horribly humid and hot Tx summer zaps my mpg some too, I've had my share of mpg woes with my truck myself...I just drive so few miles per year I can't really justify the cost of a new vehicle.
I supposedly have a mopar pcv valve I bought myself online from a good seller but who knows really...rockauto doesn't carry a mopar pcv valve for my truck last I looked, they've probably been long discontinued for our older truck maybe.
By the halls effect sensor in the distributor do you mean the "reluctor or camshaft sensor"? I heard they, as well as the crankshaft sensor can even play into mpg but my truck starts up fine and drives fine so I assume they're ok along with my timing chain...I considered going ahead and changing the chain to a good double roller set but as I don't have any noise or problems I guess mine's ok...oh the joys of getting a cheap used 90s vehicle with no repair history :P
I need to change out a leaking water pump or maybe the gasket is bad, but, I could never find a noobie friendly step by step guide to changing the chain....some swear you gotta make sure the engine is at top dead center, others said that doesn't even matter and you can even move the cogwheels by hand to make the two dots line up then replace them and the chain and be good to go.
Waterpump and finally fixing my loose/sloppy steering wheel are my next priorities myself, I looked at the steering box people said you can just tighten but it's in a very weird spot and angle with not much room to fit a socket from when I eyeballed it....maybe I could do it with a normal wrench? According to this newer gen ram steering slop fix vid you're supposed to loosen the nut while tightening the screw inside but I didn't see a screw on mine.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaWUZZ7ELxw
Glad to see the NTK o2 sensor helped, I always heard bosch sensors in general suck bad online -shrug- . I myself recently changed out my o2 sensor to NTK and got a Standard Motor Products new MAP sensor on, my truck started up better and is smoother now too. I swear I bookmarked it but circa 2009 here many people swore even getting new autozone map sensors helped their MPG out, apparently over time the combustion gases/vapors harden up the sensor and make it not read right, it serves a major role in telling the computer how much gas to use iirc... I personally would randomly have a bit of a low idle after replacing both sensors but after about 40 miles it fixed itself as the IAC relearned. IDK how old my iac and tps are personally, they could be original for all I know, maybe changing them out would help me some.
I heard as vehicles get older in general the mpg suffers as stuff gets worn out, after a full tuneup and changing every major MPG contributing sensor out myself, I assume I'm getting about as good as I can with basically stock tires considering I'm sitting on 225k miles on my old OBD1 95 Ram. I do have some gumout high mileage fuel system cleaner in my big ~34 gallon tank now at the moment, going to use this tank up and maybe splurge and make my wallet cry and fill the tank up then just calculate how many gallons I use per 100 miles to determine mpg, as my gas needle tends to read a bit higher than it actually is....I'm sure using AC to not die in this horribly humid and hot Tx summer zaps my mpg some too, I've had my share of mpg woes with my truck myself...I just drive so few miles per year I can't really justify the cost of a new vehicle.
I supposedly have a mopar pcv valve I bought myself online from a good seller but who knows really...rockauto doesn't carry a mopar pcv valve for my truck last I looked, they've probably been long discontinued for our older truck maybe.
By the halls effect sensor in the distributor do you mean the "reluctor or camshaft sensor"? I heard they, as well as the crankshaft sensor can even play into mpg but my truck starts up fine and drives fine so I assume they're ok along with my timing chain...I considered going ahead and changing the chain to a good double roller set but as I don't have any noise or problems I guess mine's ok...oh the joys of getting a cheap used 90s vehicle with no repair history :P
I need to change out a leaking water pump or maybe the gasket is bad, but, I could never find a noobie friendly step by step guide to changing the chain....some swear you gotta make sure the engine is at top dead center, others said that doesn't even matter and you can even move the cogwheels by hand to make the two dots line up then replace them and the chain and be good to go.
Waterpump and finally fixing my loose/sloppy steering wheel are my next priorities myself, I looked at the steering box people said you can just tighten but it's in a very weird spot and angle with not much room to fit a socket from when I eyeballed it....maybe I could do it with a normal wrench? According to this newer gen ram steering slop fix vid you're supposed to loosen the nut while tightening the screw inside but I didn't see a screw on mine.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaWUZZ7ELxw