See how hard they are hitting the control arms, and go from there. Think I would drop at least a half inch though....

 

Jimy,

No worries my man I'm in PA and I can't keep my mustang clean without walking out the next day to go to work and it not looking like someone sprinkled yellow Pixy dust all over it, the cleaner it is the more of it it sticks lmao I do have to say, ur paint looks flawless, mine on the other hand is all spiderwebbed and chipping here and there.

Yours is nicely done, very clean and flows very well with the truck lines, pollen or not lol

 

HeyYou, I def will, so 4 inch bs should be a good starting point then huh? At least I have a good reference to go from, thanks man!

I know what offset does to the bearings etc so I know generally you want to try and avoid excessive negative bs and with positive, doesn't less backspace also mean that the wheel will be shifted out away from the truck, assuming same width of rim correct? So u can accomplish the same with bs that u can with offset to a certain degree?

 

Thanks for the compliment. Basically, with a stock height 2500 4x4, you want at least +12 to +18 of offset to keep a 9" rim with 33 to 35" tires away from the control arms and depending on how wide a tire, away from the edges of the front bumper. A little rubbing on the back of the inner fenders won't cause a lot of issues. If you do a lot of offroading, you're going to hit and rub everything so you might as well lift it and go for 0 or negative offset rims.

 

Offset and backspacing are very closely related. In your case, however, it's backspacing that is biting you.

I would take a good look at just how far you can turn before the tire contacts the control arm. See if a half-inch less is going to move the tires far enough out. (and yes, less backspacing sticks the tires out further from the axles. )

 

Np man, I call it like I see it haha

Is it an even ratio 1:1? What I mean by this, assuming the same wheel, if I need .5 of bs less does that equate to .5 inch gained outward since the width of the wheel doesn't change? Plus whatever is extra from the tire "buldging" so to speak?

I do off-road a little bit, nothing crazy or too crazy, I'd like to hit some trails with my friends who are truck guys, I'm more of a car guy lol what I mean by that is I'm not thinking or building a truck on paper all the time, but drag racing is what I love and I think and build on paper (and irl) all the time lmao

With a truck I'm not thinking about forged this and twin turbo that, I'm thinking more along the lines of, tow anything I want, haul anything I need, go through any snow or mud, and be comfortable as can be. Pretty much a fortress on wheels as far as towing/hauling etc etc what trucks shine at lol

That being said, as a guy there's something about driving a truck that cant b had without doing it, so it is growing on me very rapidly, so I'm trying to plan ahead knowing that I will prolly venture more into this side of the "sport or hobby" and with wheels and tires I'd rather get it done correctly now so that when I do I don't have to go back and repsec wheels and rebuy them if that all makes sense? Lol

Hence why I've been asking about bs and offset, cause offroading will very likely become part of the equation haha

 

Yep, half inch less backspacing moves the wheel further out by half an inch, regardless of wheel width.

I think the trick is going to be: Determine what tires you want to run, on what rims, and go from there. Most of the 'major' tire stores will mount up a wheel/tire for a 'test' for you.

 

Yeah I hear ya, I want to run the MasterCraft Courser MXT in 35 on a 16 or 17 inch wheel, 8 or 9 wide depending on what will get them out in the fender to not look so backwards lol

As for tire shops, we have a few tire shops here, but the just sell tires, they don't have wheels they sell or anything like that, not for prolly 50+ miles in either direction, best we got is a Walmart TLE as far as "major" places haha so I have to order them get em mount and balanced and then put them on and hope I did enough research etc lol

 

Sorry for the delay guys, I've got some measurements, least best I could and I'm sure it isn't 100% accurate but I'd say a fudge factor of .25"+/- wouldn't be out of the question since my driveway isn't level, anywho... Moving on lol

First and foremost according to my door sticker my wheels are 16x6.5 inches front and rear, the current tire that has almost no tread left is a Buckshot Maxxis Mudder and its size is 315/75/16.

​​​​​​From what I can tell I am hitting the control arm on the driver's side only but fairly hard, that's mostly due to my alignment being out a bit I'm sure but regardless of that it would still rub as we all know so go figure lol -its on my list of things I have to fix-

As for the flares -again they look like bushwhacker pockets, or a cheap knockoff, but that's the style-
They give me approx 3.5 inches of added width from the stock fenders, measured from right above the fender out to the edge of the bushwhackers at eye level.

Here's where it interests me, it could be air pressure differences, just how dodge made it and/or my alignment but I measured at the Apex of the sidewall on the top portion of the tire closest to the flares front and rear and this is what I got, again not on a level surface but nonetheless, gives an idea:

 

So, if you go with an 8" rim, with 4" backspacing, that should put the fronts about even with the edge of the flares. I would measure the other side as well, just to be sure the axle really is centered under the truck.