I think that started in 98 or 99. My 96 8800GVW 2500 has single-piston calipers.

 

Interesting. Can you take 8800 dual calipers and put them on a 8800 single caliper?

 

Nope. I wish I could. The calipers are a LOT bigger..... so, don't fit the mounts. I haven't looked at my 98 yet, to see which calipers are under there.

 

Even if both axles are 2500

 

My 96 was an 8800# gvw, and it had the single piston calipers. No way the dual piston calipers would fit. Would have to change the knuckles as well.

 

Never even thought of that, it would be pointless to swap the adjuster the other way. Wonder if I just got the wrong spring, no issues on the other side .

 

To the OP-
I would bleed a full (new UN-opened or recently opened) bottle of brake fluid through your system starting at the rear passenger side and working forward. Bleed each wheel until the new fluid (clear fluid) comes out the bleeders. This may sound like a pain but a good vacuum bleeder with ample grease around the bleeder valves themselves, to keep air out, will make short work of it. Jacking each wheel of the ground and spin the tires by hand is a good and easy way to check for excessive brake drag.
Make sure to have the rear drums adjusted pretty 'tight'. the rear brakes should drag slightly. By doing it this way you will get good solid pedal feel.
Id suspect that your new pads just need 'bed or broken' in, like you mentioned. This can take up to 500 miles for them to seat properly and bond with the rotor.
If you used an existing rotor with new pads, it is a good idea to scuff up the rotor face to remove any existing glazing from the old pads.
These are just some tips ive had good success using on my 01' ram 1500 4x4. I have 37" tires and my truck stops better then my 08 f150 on stock tires. Though my EBC greenstuff pads play a big role in that!

Good luck.

 

Ive never heard of the grease around the fittings trick, I will have to try that out! I always use teflon tape on the bleeders, this time around air was still getting passed the bleeders.. I was considering trying "pipe dope" but idk if thats a good idea.

 

Pipe dope will make the next time you try and bleed your brakes rather difficult. I use teflon tape as well, if the rust around them isn't enough to seal them....... if you still get air passed the threads, put a couple more raps of tape on 'em.

 

I think the adjuster arm is also different, along with opposite threads in the adjuster wheel.