5.2 Magnum v8 won't idle, stalls unless holding gas
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Rookie
Joined: Jun 2018
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I haven't done a compression test. Im scared to.
Also wondering if the lock cylinder could be messing up the ignition? Because it will move even after I take the key out and doesn't lock the steering column like it should.
i'll go back out there tomorrow and check tdc and the rotor.
Also wondering if the lock cylinder could be messing up the ignition? Because it will move even after I take the key out and doesn't lock the steering column like it should.
i'll go back out there tomorrow and check tdc and the rotor.
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
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It seems like it is but it honestly isn't. The problem lies in you can't set the ignition timing or fuel sync without having a pricey scan tool.
Captain
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 593
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From: Shawnee, KS
I used AutoZone brand lol. I thought I had it fixed originally because I thought it was the tps at first. Ive noticed gaps in throttle body plates before which controlled the idle and the tps plastic teeth were busted. Then I couldn't get the tps to gap the throttle plate enough to hold idle so I realized that this throttle body wasn't like that. Im also confused which way the tps is supposed to go because I've seen the connector up and also the connector down in videos.<br /><br />I really thought i had it fixed because when I replaced the iac with the AutoZone brand it cranked and idled good so I thought I fixed it and shut it off. Then later it wouldn't idle again and stalled.<br /><br />If i wedge something in the throttle plate it will get enough air to idle.<br /><br />The throttle body is actually pretty clean already. Is there a tiny hole for the iac i possibly missed?<br /><br />The previous owner broke the old crankshaft position sensor off and I replaced it with the duralast (that's it) AutoZone brand.<br /><br />Now, for the ignition interlock, as in DWI interlock device which prevents the vehicle from running? It's almost seems like it is being told to not run by some kind of shut off device.<br /><br />The wire runs from the steering column to the ignition coil and also to a spring device on the driver's side that registers if the hood is open or closed. I broke that spring device when i was messing with it and lost the spring.<br /><br />I'm also wondering if maybe my ignition coil is bad.<br /><br />Should I buy mopar iac, tps, and crankshaft position sensor?
Last edited by racefan41; Jun 9, 2018 at 10:35 PM.
Captain
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 593
Likes: 8
From: Shawnee, KS
damn, is everyone else seeing the br arrow stuff going on im my post, or is it just me? whats that all about ? lol
Must be cause of my real good penmanship
Must be cause of my real good penmanship
Last edited by racefan41; Jun 9, 2018 at 10:52 PM.
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
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It will get it close yes. Also your ignition cylinder is bad but that won't cause any problems other then if you don't make sure it's off it'll kill the battery
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
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Could be lol but it would be your computer or if you are trying to use faces
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Lee County, North Carolina
I really thought i had it fixed because when I replaced the iac with the AutoZone brand it cranked and idled good so I thought I fixed it and shut it off. Then later it wouldn't idle again and stalled.
If i wedge something in the throttle plate it will get enough air to idle.
Grand Champion
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7,435
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If you don't know now sound the engine is it makes scene to find out(compression test). What condition is the battery in? Have it load tested, If it is even a bit in the weak zone replace it. A weak battery will cause issues with idle! When you check the position of the rotor it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke #1 cylinder. Don't trust the mark on the balencer unless you check it(tdc piston #1 cylinder) The outer ring on the balencer has been known to move. Did you check for any vac leaks? Plenum gasket blown? After market sensors can be hit or miss especially for the iac. I have heard of people going threw 5 or more before finding one that would work. Stick with oem or delphi. Delphi is supplier for the auto manufactures so it's not "aftermarket".
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Im going to go check the rotor and TDC in an hour or two.
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Rookie
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<br />yeah, i would replace the crank and cam sensors (maybe after doing a compression test)<br /><br />the wire for my interlock (yes dui) is the power source for the device. those systems have to have a "reliable" 12v to work properly. they trying rewiring it twice and i was still having issues, so they tapped into the power wire to the coil. no more problems. (except that i still have it in my truck)<br /><br />on your coil, mist some water on it while the truck is running and look for any arching going on. if you see any, replace it. if you don't, take it off and check the resistance numbers on it and make sure they are in range.<br /><br />i would use mopar for all your sensors and even on your coil. i bought two from parts stores (for my old durango) that were out of spec right out of the box.
i will have to wait about 10 days to buy more sensors when I get some money.
The thing is, i don't have an interlock device and am wondering y i have a single wire running from the steering column to the ignition coil.
I guess I could check the resistance on the coil.