Originally Posted by VeraciousTrades

Well Mopar thank you for the feedback. That's all kind of intimidating. I should be able to align tdc with the marks on the crankshaft. Then I can pull the distributor cap and see if it lines up with cylinder 1 mark and go from there.

Originally Posted by VeraciousTrades

I used AutoZone brand lol. I thought I had it fixed originally because I thought it was the tps at first. Ive noticed gaps in throttle body plates before which controlled the idle and the tps plastic teeth were busted. Then I couldn't get the tps to gap the throttle plate enough to hold idle so I realized that this throttle body wasn't like that. Im also confused which way the tps is supposed to go because I've seen the connector up and also the connector down in videos.<br /><br />I really thought i had it fixed because when I replaced the iac with the AutoZone brand it cranked and idled good so I thought I fixed it and shut it off. Then later it wouldn't idle again and stalled.<br /><br />If i wedge something in the throttle plate it will get enough air to idle.<br /><br />The throttle body is actually pretty clean already. Is there a tiny hole for the iac i possibly missed?<br /><br />The previous owner broke the old crankshaft position sensor off and I replaced it with the duralast (that's it) AutoZone brand.<br /><br />Now, for the ignition interlock, as in DWI interlock device which prevents the vehicle from running? It's almost seems like it is being told to not run by some kind of shut off device.<br /><br />The wire runs from the steering column to the ignition coil and also to a spring device on the driver's side that registers if the hood is open or closed. I broke that spring device when i was messing with it and lost the spring.<br /><br />I'm also wondering if maybe my ignition coil is bad.<br /><br />Should I buy mopar iac, tps, and crankshaft position sensor?

Originally Posted by VeraciousTrades

I read through the diagrams. Does it make a difference if I never removed the distributor at all? And, is this the only way to correct the timing if the rotor is off?

Thanks alot for your help.

Originally Posted by racefan41

damn, is everyone else seeing the br arrow stuff going on im my post, or is it just me? whats that all about ? lol

Must be cause of my real good penmanship

Originally Posted by VeraciousTrades

I really thought i had it fixed because when I replaced the iac with the AutoZone brand it cranked and idled good so I thought I fixed it and shut it off. Then later it wouldn't idle again and stalled.

If i wedge something in the throttle plate it will get enough air to idle.

Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21

It seems like it is but it honestly isn't. The problem lies in you can't set the ignition timing or fuel sync without having a pricey scan tool.

Originally Posted by racefan41

<br />yeah, i would replace the crank and cam sensors (maybe after doing a compression test)<br /><br />the wire for my interlock (yes dui) is the power source for the device. those systems have to have a "reliable" 12v to work properly. they trying rewiring it twice and i was still having issues, so they tapped into the power wire to the coil. no more problems. (except that i still have it in my truck)<br /><br />on your coil, mist some water on it while the truck is running and look for any arching going on. if you see any, replace it. if you don't, take it off and check the resistance numbers on it and make sure they are in range.<br /><br />i would use mopar for all your sensors and even on your coil. i bought two from parts stores (for my old durango) that were out of spec right out of the box.