That hose may be for the vent for the front differential.

 

No; I traced it back to the evap cylinder. I actually had to disconnect it from the evap cylinder and pull it out to get to the end so I could swap out the parts on the end.

So from Rock Auto I ordered the following parts. I know I've replaced the fuel pump previously a long time ago (and until it recently started leaking it was working fine). The TPS, IAC, MAP, vapor canister, and the vapor canister solenoid are all currently factory originals from 1996. The cap and rotor have been replaced once-or-twice before with parts with aluminum terminals, and they always looked extremely pitted when replaced. I hope the ones with the brass contacts do better. And we'll see how much (if any) my gas mileage improves once they're all installed (currently getting 11.5 +/- 1 mpg). Currently I'm not getting any codes, but while I'm dealing with the gas tank I might as well go all-out and see if I can improve the mpg by throwing parts at it. And hopefully get a little lost power back once I'm done - but I shouldn't complain about an engine with 220,000 miles on it.

DELPHI FG0212 Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly $136.79
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TH145 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) $33.79
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC68 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve $26.79
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AS57 Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor $51.79
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS CP3231 Vapor Canister $64.79
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS CF1 (CF-1) Vapor Canister Filter $1.36 (I don't know if I really needed this or not)
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS CP415 Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid $24.89
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD175 (FD-175) Distributor Cap $9.47
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD315 (FD-315) Distributor Rotor $4.13
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS UF97 (UF-97) Ignition Coil $25.79
Shipping Ground $19.98
Order Total $399.57

Good thing I love my truck; I bought it new in 1996. About two years ago I spent about $1000 for the timing chain replacement and a couple other things done at the same time. Still cheaper than a new truck - just figure you're going to spend a couple hundred dollars a year to keep something like this going. And for the most part I supply the labor (me).

 

Received my parts from Rock Auto, and installed them all (see previous post). Didn't need the vapor cannister filter. Swapping out the distributor cap and rotor is always a major PIA. And dropping the gas tank it never fun (but do-able).

The old pump's rubber cap on the nipple thing on the top was totally cracked. On the new pump, I put a sheet metal screw through that nipple, and then put the rubber cap (the new one that came with the new pump) back on.

Fuel gauge registered just under 1/4 tank with the old pump, and same with new pump. Truck seems to run well (was running ok before all the parts were installed; I'm just hoping to get a little better MPG - the original issue that started all this was the fuel pump leaking fuel down the sides of the gas tank). When I filled the tank (with 21 gallons), the gauge registered full. And no leaks!

A few minutes before I got home from filling it up the gauge said empty and the gas-pump dash light was lit. Any ideas? It worked however briefly (the gauge) and then nothing. Maybe the float lever came dislodged when I filled it up and it raised up(?). I need to run through this tank of gas, then drop the tank again and pull the pump to see if anything is obvious (like a disconnected float lever or wire, or the float itself has a leak and has settled to the bottom of the tank). I have a new pump on order from Rock Auto since it is under warranty. Once I get this straighten out, I can start checking to see if all these other parts are helping my MPG.

 

What brand pump module did you get?

 

I got a Delphi pump (one of the ones that was recommended). Part # DLP FG0212.

 

For Future reference: https://www.factorychryslerparts.com.../05217802.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-05217802

This is supposed to be that rubber gasket.

 

Have you tried turning the key to on and wiggle wires around to see/hear if you have a bad connection/ground somewhere? I take it it "dings" when the gauge drops off. Also might clean the connectors to the pump assembly.

 

This is a picture of the fuel pump. The circled portion comes with a rubber cap with a clamp. On mine, the rubber had rotted and cracked, and you could just flip the top of it over. I don't think it was causing my fuel leak, but I took a sheet metal screw, put a little RV sealant on the threads, and then screwed it down the top of the nipple before replacing the rubber cap and clamp. So even if the rubber cap totally rotted off, the screw should still be sealing the vent hole.

I tried "wiggling wires" and such to no avail before ordering another pump.

The replacement Delphi fuel pump arrived today while I was at work, so when I got home I dropped the tank and pulled the pump I had just put in there for the new one. I found out real fast why the fuel gauge wasn't working:

The float had a leak. The float filled with gas, and settled on the bottom of the tank. So I put the pump I received today in the tank, and bolted the tank back up (unfortunately I'm getting pretty good at dropping the tank, replacing the pump, and reinstalling the tank... all by myself). Well see how this one does (I poured the five gallons of gas I was driving around with into the tank after doing the swap, fired it up to check for leaks, and tomorrow I'll fill it up all the way and drive it and see if I get a repeat performance with the gas gauge).

 

And to close the loop:

1. I filled up the tank after putting on the second new fuel pump in two weeks, and checked my mileage - 12.1 mpg. About 1 mpg better than usual. Which is just under a 10% increase, so I'm good with that - will continue to monitor (I guess theoretically it could get better as the computer gets used to the new sensors and such I installed). It is a slightly lifted truck with 33" tires, so I'm not expecting great mpg in a 22 yr old truck with over 220,000 miles.

2. And again, I put a sheet metal screw into that vent (circled in picture previous post) and then put the rubber cap and clamp back on. So even if the rubber cap (looks just like a large rubber vacuum line cap) dry-rots again, the vent will still be sealed.

2. With all the new parts I put on (listed in a previous post) it does seem to be running just a little bit better (was running "ok" prior so I wasn't expecting a major change anyways) - mainly noticeable in the lower RPM ranges. I'm sure one or more of those parts is helping with my slightly better mpg. I just kinda replaced everything I could think of that was original 1996 or hadn't been replaced within the last few years (truck is not my daily driver).

3. No gas leaks from the tank! No more getting out of the truck and wondering "why am I smelling gasoline?". And the gas gauge is registering like it is supposed to do!

Now to return the first pump with the leaking float to Rock Auto for a refund. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

I'm not sure if plugging the vent hole is good. I think when it pumps out the gasoline, it should be able to bring in air to fill the void made by the gasoline leaving. The rubber thingy is just to keep stuff (ie:rust) from dropping in there is my guess. I could be wrong. Could no air getting out of there cause the gas cap pressure? (not sure if it was in there when the gas cap had pressure or not)