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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
So I narrowed it down to the crank. Almost like the back two journals aren't wide enough for the connecting rods. I even rotated the back pistons 180° no difference. So I think the machine shop messed up the crank. Not to mention the front 4 pistons (the ones I have no trouble with) are in two different ways and that makes no issues. I did find out (from videos) that the "4" on the pistons face the front of the motor.
So some cylinders were backwards and I believe change from one bank to another (which you can't do). So I have to pull all the pistons out and try to find the number on the bearing caps
Got it to turn freely, still can't use the damper to turn it but it turns with less effort. There were no numbers on the bearing caps so I had to play a game of moving pistons. Also coated the frame while the motor was out. I plan to do the whole way to the cab. I have to remove the paint though as it has some runs.
Before:
After:
You didn't just remove the engine, you removed EVERYTHING..... Sure makes pulling the motor easy.
To turn the crank, I usually leave the woodruff key in it's slot on the crank snout, and use a large adjustable wrench (crescent wrench) to run the crank. No danger of snapping off the balance bolt that way. They also make sockets for just such a purpose.
You didn't just remove the engine, you removed EVERYTHING..... Sure makes pulling the motor easy.
To turn the crank, I usually leave the woodruff key in it's slot on the crank snout, and use a large adjustable wrench (crescent wrench) to run the crank. No danger of snapping off the balance bolt that way. They also make sockets for just such a purpose.
With it being lifted and my fresh being built my engine hoist wouldn't clear the core support removed the passenger fender to cut the exhaust to manifold bolts. Had to cut the Y pipe on the driver's side (have to weld it back on). Removed everything else for paint lol.
How do you turn the crank again?? The only key on the crank is the machined line
There is the woodruff key on the crank snout that makes sure the balancer is aligned properly at installation. It makes a great stop for the crescent wrench.
There is the woodruff key on the crank snout that makes sure the balancer is aligned properly at installation. It makes a great stop for the crescent wrench.
Ahh yeah lol I used a pipe wrench and it scratched the crank but I think it will still seal as it's underneath the dampener. I do have a question I bought a gasket kit and it came with a big o ring (had to be got the distributor but was too thick) and a big rubber washer. Is there suppose to be a rubber washer behind the crank bolt between the bolt and the dampener
removed the passenger fender to cut the exhaust to manifold bolts. Had to cut the Y pipe on the driver's side (have to weld it back on). Removed everything else for paint lol.