Heavy duty inverted T steering on 1500
#11
07-24-2018, 09:14 AM
Professional
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The answers are out there if you research carefully. Diesel forums have the best answers.
The Dodge T steering was made during 98-99 and will bolt up to anything 95-00. Knuckles were different in 94 and 01-2.
The Dodge/Ram 08 HD steering was designed to replace Y steering in 3rd gen tires and will bolt up to the AAM axles or 01-2 Danas with slight modification of the tapers. All Ram 2500 and 3500 pickups have had T steering since 2008.
Since you have a 98, the 98-99 parts will bolt right up perfectly, as they did on mine. However. . .
The aforementioned roll-over is an issue on cheap parts and even Moog now. As the wheels turn, the tie rods move in their joint first before turning horizontally allowing for a dead spot in the movement. Original Spicer and Moog parts were made with a puck style boot on the passenger joint to avoid this. Moog no longer makes them like this. The AC Delco parts last I checked still had the original puck design to keep from rolling. What I did to eliminate it was simply cut out the boot and install washers above the ball joint socket so that it sits snugly against the knuckle thus keeping roll-over from occurring.
The T steering is a big improvement over road joints and bridge seams and really solidifies the front end. Also makes alignment a breeze!
The Dodge T steering was made during 98-99 and will bolt up to anything 95-00. Knuckles were different in 94 and 01-2.
The Dodge/Ram 08 HD steering was designed to replace Y steering in 3rd gen tires and will bolt up to the AAM axles or 01-2 Danas with slight modification of the tapers. All Ram 2500 and 3500 pickups have had T steering since 2008.
Since you have a 98, the 98-99 parts will bolt right up perfectly, as they did on mine. However. . .
The aforementioned roll-over is an issue on cheap parts and even Moog now. As the wheels turn, the tie rods move in their joint first before turning horizontally allowing for a dead spot in the movement. Original Spicer and Moog parts were made with a puck style boot on the passenger joint to avoid this. Moog no longer makes them like this. The AC Delco parts last I checked still had the original puck design to keep from rolling. What I did to eliminate it was simply cut out the boot and install washers above the ball joint socket so that it sits snugly against the knuckle thus keeping roll-over from occurring.
The T steering is a big improvement over road joints and bridge seams and really solidifies the front end. Also makes alignment a breeze!
The "cure" that was mentioned is sold by Ruffstuff Specialties. While not made for ram steering i had good luck buying the white one and reaming the inner hole slightly to fit.
This is even a better option - https://www.polyperformance.com/syne...t-boot-4134-02
#12
07-24-2018, 11:18 AM
All I used are two rubber discs and one metal washer stacked on top of the remaining rubber boot. It's actually quite flexible and been working fine since last year for 20k. Just took a road trip (4k) and been four-wheeling since then. I think I'm good. I'm not totally pleased with it as it would be nice to not hack up new parts but I don't have the patience right now as the steering is really good.
Ooo, I like that link and twelve bucks ain't bad. Essentially what I did with Home Depot washers ($2). Looks like Synergy puts them on the driver's side? I've got them on both. The old Moog and AC Delco has them on the passenger rod I think.
Ooo, I like that link and twelve bucks ain't bad. Essentially what I did with Home Depot washers ($2). Looks like Synergy puts them on the driver's side? I've got them on both. The old Moog and AC Delco has them on the passenger rod I think.
Last edited by Ramman18; 07-24-2018 at 11:28 AM.
#13
07-24-2018, 01:19 PM
All I used are two rubber discs and one metal washer stacked on top of the remaining rubber boot. It's actually quite flexible and been working fine since last year for 20k. Just took a road trip (4k) and been four-wheeling since then. I think I'm good. I'm not totally pleased with it as it would be nice to not hack up new parts but I don't have the patience right now as the steering is really good.
Ooo, I like that link and twelve bucks ain't bad. Essentially what I did with Home Depot washers ($2). Looks like Synergy puts them on the driver's side? I've got them on both. The old Moog and AC Delco has them on the passenger rod I think.
Ooo, I like that link and twelve bucks ain't bad. Essentially what I did with Home Depot washers ($2). Looks like Synergy puts them on the driver's side? I've got them on both. The old Moog and AC Delco has them on the passenger rod I think.
#14
07-24-2018, 02:46 PM
Professional
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes, between the knuckle and tierod end.
Synergy does just put them on one side. But over time the poly gets worn and the tie rod will start to roll. Putting them on both sides will make it last longer.
The synergy one needs cut down to about 1/2 its height to work on factory T steering as it is too tall the way it comes.
For those that are considering the synergy part;
install the tie rod end without the stock dust boot. Tighten the bolt to spec(to make sure the tie rod end is pulled tight into the knuckle), then measure the gap between the bottom edge of the tie rod end and the top of the knuckle.
This will give you the height to cut the synergy spacer down to.
Then cut the synergy "low misalignment spacer" just slightly taller than the space measured, about 3/32".
Synergy does just put them on one side. But over time the poly gets worn and the tie rod will start to roll. Putting them on both sides will make it last longer.
The synergy one needs cut down to about 1/2 its height to work on factory T steering as it is too tall the way it comes.
For those that are considering the synergy part;
install the tie rod end without the stock dust boot. Tighten the bolt to spec(to make sure the tie rod end is pulled tight into the knuckle), then measure the gap between the bottom edge of the tie rod end and the top of the knuckle.
This will give you the height to cut the synergy spacer down to.
Then cut the synergy "low misalignment spacer" just slightly taller than the space measured, about 3/32".
#15
07-24-2018, 04:58 PM
yes, between the knuckle and tierod end.
Synergy does just put them on one side. But over time the poly gets worn and the tie rod will start to roll. Putting them on both sides will make it last longer.
The synergy one needs cut down to about 1/2 its height to work on factory T steering as it is too tall the way it comes.
For those that are considering the synergy part;
install the tie rod end without the stock dust boot. Tighten the bolt to spec(to make sure the tie rod end is pulled tight into the knuckle), then measure the gap between the bottom edge of the tie rod end and the top of the knuckle.
This will give you the height to cut the synergy spacer down to.
Then cut the synergy "low misalignment spacer" just slightly taller than the space measured, about 3/32".
Synergy does just put them on one side. But over time the poly gets worn and the tie rod will start to roll. Putting them on both sides will make it last longer.
The synergy one needs cut down to about 1/2 its height to work on factory T steering as it is too tall the way it comes.
For those that are considering the synergy part;
install the tie rod end without the stock dust boot. Tighten the bolt to spec(to make sure the tie rod end is pulled tight into the knuckle), then measure the gap between the bottom edge of the tie rod end and the top of the knuckle.
This will give you the height to cut the synergy spacer down to.
Then cut the synergy "low misalignment spacer" just slightly taller than the space measured, about 3/32".
#17
07-25-2018, 03:49 AM
#18
07-25-2018, 08:53 AM
Professional
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#19
07-25-2018, 01:54 PM
That's what I was wondering! I figured you wouldn't leave it bare in the knuckle