I'm sure it'll run, just not as well as it should. You might find yourself popping those heads off again. At least you should have an easier time of it the 2nd time around.

POR exhaust manifold paint is pretty good.

 

I'm a mighty man of God with faith. He blesses my work.

I'm sure all 8 cylinders will be firing vs. the 4 of 8 like there was.

 

I started to clean up the pistons and, yeah, there is damage to them from the valves. I just thought it was the markings at first.

So, can I take the pistons out with the block still in? I was thinking of taking them out and then honing the cylinders. I don't want to take it to a machine shop.

Good news is at tdc#1 and #6 are up, but I still could have the cams reversed, right? I forgot to check the distributor. It should be at 6, and cam dot down and crankshaft dot up?

 

Should be able to pull pistons/rods with engine still in the truck. Honing them may be fun for the back several cylinders. Access is rather restricted by other stuff in the way. Replace the rings as well.

Yep, distributor should be pointing at number 6.

 

Last picture looks like there is a longitudinal slot in the cylinder wall, at about the 3 to 4 o'clock position. See if you fingernail catches in it. If so, doubtful it'll hone out.

 

I'll check the walls. How much do you think a machine shop would charge to bore the block?

Anyways, if the walls are good, how do I know what size pistons to get?

I've never used a micrometer but I saw one at harbor freight.

So I just need 8 pistons and the rings? I've seen sets for about $136. Remove the oil pan. Remove the pistons. Hone the cylinders. Measure the cylinders and then just put the ring on and reinstall them? Do I need to coat them in oil?

Should I just get standard size or maybe .50mm oversized because of wear?

 

Oh, and what do I use to stop the crankshaft from spinning to get the 32mm bolt the rest of the way off? Put a few bolts in the holes and use that big square fan clutch wrench?

 

I'd find a shop that uses a torque plate (substitute for the head), but no everyone does that. They'll measure each bore with a cylinder bore gauge and give you an idea of what needs to be done before they do it. Usually its a per bore charge. Wait until they get the bores straight and prepared before you buy pistons/rings. Where do you live? Maybe someone can refer you to a good shop. You'll need a ring compressor, can be had rather cheap. You may need to check the ring gap (and grind if necessary), check youtube for fitting rings. Its all pretty easy, just need to know how things work - you should get an engine building book, it'll give you the basics you're missing.

 

Machine shop will tell ya how much overbore you need. Or, they will tell you the block is junk.

Pistons, rings, gaskets, etc. You need to maintain proper compression ratio, so, careful what pistons you order.

Get some assembly lube for when you put it back together. (and be generous with it.)

Got a strap wrench? If not, get one..... put it around the PULLEY, NOT the dampner.

 

I had an engine book but can't find it. I have the Haynes manual for the ram. So I have to remove the block and take it to the shop?

If the walls are good, can't I just hone and measure with the micrometer? What should the difference be between the size of the cylinder and the piston size?