2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Transmission Cooler Question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-26-2018, 06:21 PM
cjames1173's Avatar
cjames1173
cjames1173 is offline
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Transmission Cooler Question

I have a 2000 RAM 1500 Pickup 2WD with the 5.2L. I'm going to be installing a rebuilt 46RE this weekend and when I received it there was a note that said I must replace my ATF cooler and flush lines. I bought a Hayden High Performance 514 Cooler kit. They rate it for MED DUTY use, motorhome+5000lbs towing. The most I ever tow is 5070 lbs. I was planning to bypass my factory cooler and just use the new unit, but I read in the instructions (with the Hayden Cooler) that I may need 2-3 sizes larger to do a replace over "in-series" installation. Can this Oil Cooler (which I intend to install in front of my radiator and AC condenser) effectively cool my trans fluid alone? If not, any advise on flushing the existing cooler and lines after a catastrophic U-joint and (as a result) transmission failure, there was a large amount of metal and debris in my torque converter and old trans. Thanks in advance, This forum is GREAT!
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2018, 07:55 PM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
HeyYou is online now
Administrator
Dodge Forum Administrator
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clayton MI
Posts: 81,538
Likes: 0
Received 3,274 Likes on 3,021 Posts
Default

Flush the cooler backwards. Disconnect the lines AT THE TRANS! You wanna flush those too. I think the rearmost line is actually the return, so, that is the end you want to force the flush into. I would be tempted to get a couple gallons of mineral spirits, and whatever plumbing parts you need to flush it. Careful with pressure though, you don't want to blow apart the cooler in the radiator....

The other option would be simply flush the lines, and REPLACE the radiator. (cheap insurance as far as I am concerned.)
 
  #3  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:06 PM
cjames1173's Avatar
cjames1173
cjames1173 is offline
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Will a replacement trans oil cooler work well enough stand alone?
 
  #4  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:33 PM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
HeyYou is online now
Administrator
Dodge Forum Administrator
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clayton MI
Posts: 81,538
Likes: 0
Received 3,274 Likes on 3,021 Posts
Default

If it's big enough...... There is probably a chart for just such an occasion out on the web somewhere.
 
  #5  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:35 PM
rboarderi's Avatar
rboarderi
rboarderi is offline
Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

No, I would not use it alone. Run it inline off the radiator transmission fluid exit. I used the Derale 13034 kit (
Amazon Amazon
) with some transmission fluid line to hook up my Hayden 679. Works great and keeps my 5.2 unbelievably cool towing about 6000lb even in the hilly NW hills of CT.
 
  #6  
Old 07-27-2018, 04:19 AM
Sam Senger's Avatar
Sam Senger
Sam Senger is offline
Amateur
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

you could use your hayden 514 kit as stand alone, i mean it's rated at motorhome plus 5k of towing, i don't see why not. i would do it if i had to but would prefer the 679 or similar. it's a better design with double the rating. i have a 670 type cooler on my second gen and as an aftercooler on 60 gal compressor.
 
  #7  
Old 07-27-2018, 09:00 AM
jlake4130's Avatar
jlake4130
jlake4130 is offline
Professional
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

the factory cooler (if your truck had the aux cooler between the rad and conden.) is the more effective plate and fin design then the tube and fin cooler you picked up. The tube and plate cooler you have will need to be physically 30% larger (then the stock cooler) to cool as efficient as the stock cooler.
However, if you just had the radiator heat ex changer only then the cooler you picked up will be more effective at cooling then the stock set up.
If you had the aux cooler from the factory then buy the same style plate and fin cooler OR double up on the tube and plate coolers. You can ditch the radiator circuit if you live where freezing temps are not common. I live in AZ and have never run the radiator cooling circuit.
 
  #8  
Old 07-27-2018, 09:10 AM
cjames1173's Avatar
cjames1173
cjames1173 is offline
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks jlake! My truck is the 2WD and only has the radiator heat exchanger. I believe the only rams with the factory aux cooler are with the Off Road pkg. Will cutting out the radiator heat exchanger cut out anything else important?
 
  #9  
Old 07-27-2018, 04:11 PM
renardk764's Avatar
renardk764
renardk764 is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 387
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by cjames1173
Thanks jlake! My truck is the 2WD and only has the radiator heat exchanger. I believe the only rams with the factory aux cooler are with the Off Road pkg. Will cutting out the radiator heat exchanger cut out anything else important?
My 2001 2wd has the factory cooler. The reason they recommend replacing it is the external coolers from 2000-2001 had a built in 100 degree thermostat that could become clogged with debris and cause a no flow situation. I don't believe the radiator heat exchanger has this issue.

Ken
 
  #10  
Old 07-28-2018, 10:54 AM
cjames1173's Avatar
cjames1173
cjames1173 is offline
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Quick Update on this post.. I was unaware of my factory AUX cooler (as it was hidden behind the AC condenser). I disconnected my radiator heat exchanger (which cuts out that ****ty built in thermostat as well), removed the check valve, and temporarily ran the line to my AUX Cooler so I could do a proper reverse flush. It took 2 $13 cans of Kooler Kleen until the drainback was clear. I gave it a few bursts of 25-30 PSI compressed air after each can to get any remaining debris. I'm going to leave the check valve out, as I live near Atlanta and always let my truck warm up and ran new hose to my Hayden 514, but I ran out of hose as I underestimated how much I'd need. Photos to come when I'm done after trip 200 to advance. Am I right to assume this could help my engine run cooler as well considering there won't be hot ATF flowing through the radiator anymore?
 


Quick Reply: Transmission Cooler Question



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:38 AM.