Ball Joints without a press
#11
08-26-2018, 10:53 AM
#12
08-26-2018, 10:59 AM
I'll update tomorrow on how it's going/any other questions, Thanks again!
#14
08-28-2018, 11:47 AM
I did the trick, it worked on the side bolts, but the one ontop isn’t coming free easily, or at all really... I broke a socket trying to do that one. Also I just noticed that my ball joint nut is stripped pretty bad, I don’t know if I’ll be able to get that off. I think I’m gonna reassemble everything and try again when I have all the right tools. Ugh, what a money pit
#15
08-28-2018, 12:46 PM
#16
08-28-2018, 07:41 PM
Just as reference, this truck will shake between 30-45, recently it’s gotten better, still shakes, but not as bad, and before I did the tie rods and drag bar, it literally was an earthquake. So I’m glad most of that is fixed, the only major issue right now was that caliper, which I just replaced with another brand new one, see how that goes. I’ll keep this updated as I learn more. Again, thank you guys, I’d have no idea what I’m doing
#17
08-28-2018, 07:51 PM
Yeah, you can't pry it off with screw drivers. You have to push it off. I used a small-ish chissel, and drove it parallel to the face of the knuckle. It starts narrow and gets larger as you go, so I just wedge it in and smack it a few times with the mini sledge... Worked my way around the circumference. Honestly it took about an hour to get the hub off, but I got it off undamaged - mine would have been at least $130 a piece for good name brand.
BTW I couldn't push on all the bolts either, D60s have 4 bolts equally spaced. When you do get it off, and you will, make sure you clean the rust off the hub and knuckle hole, and coat that sucker with alot of anti-seize... so next time its a breeze to work on.
BTW I couldn't push on all the bolts either, D60s have 4 bolts equally spaced. When you do get it off, and you will, make sure you clean the rust off the hub and knuckle hole, and coat that sucker with alot of anti-seize... so next time its a breeze to work on.