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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Getting an alignment tomorrow (had to put stock tires on it) I'll be running 35 12.50 R17 how much toe should I have them set it to. This one is free and then I'm doing my own alignments. Thanks guys! Pic is stock tires
Stick with stock settings. The percentage of change is so small, that even at stock setting it will be within spec.
What is stock? Zero? Going to update to the T steering when funds allow so my toe don't change and I finally got the brakes to work. Now it stops it like it is a pedal bike.
you always want a hair toe in. any toe out and it will generally want to pull 1 way or the other and it won't want to automatically return to center as quick or easily. if your doing it with a tape measure i would say if you can get front and back within 1/8" your doing pretty good.
you always want a hair toe in. any toe out and it will generally want to pull 1 way or the other and it won't want to automatically return to center as quick or easily. if your doing it with a tape measure i would say if you can get front and back within 1/8" your doing pretty good.
can't go wrong with free especially if a shop is doing it. i usually do mine in my driveway with a tape measure. the 4x4's are super simple to do since they have a straight axle and only have to deal with toe. the 2wds' can be more of a pain since you have to deal with camber and caster. i know i recently replaced the upper control arm on my 81 and eyed the caster/camber since it is nearly impossible to find a perfectly flat area check/set that stuff with a small level.
can't go wrong with free especially if a shop is doing it. i usually do mine in my driveway with a tape measure. the 4x4's are super simple to do since they have a straight axle and only have to deal with toe. the 2wds' can be more of a pain since you have to deal with camber and caster. i know i recently replaced the upper control arm on my 81 and eyed the caster/camber since it is nearly impossible to find a perfectly flat area check/set that stuff with a small level.
I'm not going to lie a little scared to do an alignment on my own. My theory is take the wheels off leaving the rotor on (I have the clip keeping them right) then measure from back of rotors get a measurement an then the front of rotors and get them the same measurement. Does that sound right?
on a solid front axle there really isn't much to it. your theory is right. if your being lazy you can leave the tires on and just measure from tire tread to tire tread but rotor to rotor is the more accurate way to do it.
on a solid front axle there really isn't much to it. your theory is right. if your being lazy you can leave the tires on and just measure from tire tread to tire tread but rotor to rotor is the more accurate way to do it.
the diameter of the rotor is much smaller then the tire diameter (obviously). So just make the toe in at the front of the rotor 1/16 max. the further away from center (axle) the great the toe number will be.
I remove the tires and lock the rotors to the hubs with a couple lug nuts. Then i clamp a 2' level, centered, to the bottom of the rotor on each side. So 1' sticking out in front and 1' behind the axle. then pull your measurements from the ends of the levels in front and behind the axle. I set my to 3/32" toe in exact. I run 37" BFG's and the wear perfectly even.
A good steering wheel return to center has to do with your castor setting.
How much toe?
