You are obviously overlooking the sweat and blood, plenty moist under there. No tears.... yet...

Yeah, know what that tool is... I just returned that tool about two weeks ago! The pitman I rented it for didn't come off either. I seem to have separation challenges over here. Haven't had time to do much about it, work keeping me busy this week. So with that tool clamped down, there will not be access tot he side of the tierod, where are you directing the blows?

 

Love the chuckles😂 Reminds me of my struggles on the front end. Don't miss it! Just did a full inspection and service and all my parts are still perfect down there. (Fully rebuilt 2 years ago).

Once the puller is on you whack the end of the bolt of the puller. The bolt should be pressing on the stud so it forces it out. Same concept on the pitman arm. I actually got my pitman arm off in a parking lot on my back. Was surprised since it hadn't been touched since 99! But the tie rod gives a little which distributes the blow and the angle is bad, I know. Might be best to pop the TR off after all.

 

https://goo.gl/images/SsX7pt

 

[QUOTE=Ramman18;3409167Just did a full inspection and service and all my parts are still perfect down there..[/QUOTE]

hey hey hey HEEEYYYYY.... this is a FAMILY channel lets keep it G rated !

I just picked up that puller again... I may just try to tap on the tie rod while applying pressure to the shock bolt, and see if I can get it loose, I'm wondering if there will be any room to even get the puller on there - let alone hit the top of the bolt.
Would save me having to, probably, ruin the tie rod with the pickle fork. I don't like replacing stuff that isn't worn out, seems like I'm wasting capital.... Although I noticed it looks like someone mashed the bolt on the tie rod already, wondering if they removed it before or just gave up.

Usually don't have these kinds of problems - been in the rust belt all my life, always wrenching on old iron. I thought I've figured out how to get this stuff done efficiently ... Apparently I was wrong

I really like that tool progression graphic, I'm going to use that in the future... this one reflects closer to my mentality...

 

Had a little time today, the pitman arm puller wouldn't solidly connect to the tierod junction. So I took the wheel off and just went at it with the BFH. After quite a few hits, I'd say 30, it finally let go, but by then I had to remove the mushroom to get it through the hole... I decided to just pull the driver side outer tierod rather than twist the inner out. That tierod came out of the knuckle fine. Thinking its much harder to get a tierod out of another rod, steering knuckles have so much more heft.

Didn't have time to go any further, but suspect I'll get that bolt out as soon as I have time to get it setup on the press or vice.

 

Got up early and cut the other end off the shock bolt so I could get a socket behind it... slammed it in the vice with a socket on either end, one to push and one to let it slide out... and I was CONFIDENT it was going to roll right out of there... and.... NO joy! It is REALLY fused. I could go with the Hyd press, but I'll probably just damage the sockets and destroy the tie rod.. I've already beat the living crap out of the tie rod prior to getting it out from under the truck, and I lined up a rockauto price match locally on a new tie rod yesterday - so just going to go that route.

I'll count the exposed threads and duplicate with the new rod, but I suspect an alignment is in my near future. I have little confidence that different manufacturers are that consistent. Can't believe the trouble I've had with this, I've torn down suspensions that are much older and more rusty with less trouble.

I've never used anti-seize on tapered joints before, but I think I will when I put the new shock bolt in there The anti-seize might all just squeeze out, but it will make me feel like I'm doing something

 

Dang, quite the problem. Sorry it was such a pain for a little part. I would suggest converting it to the 99 style with regular shock eyes on both ends and attaching with ubolts. Ignore the arrows.

 

Is that "T" or "Y" steering? I still really can't see the difference?

 

That's T-steering. Tierod goes from knuckle to knuckle.

 

Now I understandthe differences lol