Steering wheel “knock”
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Steering wheel “knock”
Got a 97 1500 4x4. When I apply the brakes, I can feel a knock/jarr in the steering wheel. It’s just 1 knock with each brake application. If I pump the brakes 2 or 3times coming to a stop, I get a single knock in the steering wheel with each application. There is no turning motion of the steering wheel to indicate a sticking caliper, it’s just a knock or jar, like something is loose in the front end. I don’t think the steering wheel actually moves with each knock, it’s maybe more of just a sensation that is transferred to the steering wheel and a slight knock sound.
On a another note, last fall I replaced both front axle seals, a job I never want to do again. At the same time I replaced both hub/bearing assemblies and both axle U-joints. I have the truck on axle stands right now looking for the knock mentioned above, and I can feel slight in/out play at the top/bottom of the passenger side front tire, indicating ball joint wear. I imagine there is a good chance of damaging axle seals when doing the front ball joints, correct? I’ve never done ball joints, but I assume the hub has to come off again, meaning the axle would rest on the bottom of the axle tube, possibly damaging the internal axle seal?
On a another note, last fall I replaced both front axle seals, a job I never want to do again. At the same time I replaced both hub/bearing assemblies and both axle U-joints. I have the truck on axle stands right now looking for the knock mentioned above, and I can feel slight in/out play at the top/bottom of the passenger side front tire, indicating ball joint wear. I imagine there is a good chance of damaging axle seals when doing the front ball joints, correct? I’ve never done ball joints, but I assume the hub has to come off again, meaning the axle would rest on the bottom of the axle tube, possibly damaging the internal axle seal?
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From: Clayton MI
Yeah, hubs/knuckles need to come off for ball joints. Just pull the axle out. Less likely to damage the seal removing/replacing, than just leaving it lay there. (not to mention it would be in the way in any event.)
Do a quick google search on "Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix".... see if those symptoms match with what you got.
Do a quick google search on "Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix".... see if those symptoms match with what you got.
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Ball joints are both completely pooched. I’ll maybe look at the Rock Solid Fix too. How big of a job is ball joints? I’ve done axle seals and U joints on my own, but never ball joints. I don’t have any pickle forks or tools like that. Should I take it to a shop?
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From: Clayton MI
Lots of debate on part quality these days. Most folks used to recommend Moog, but, since they moved production overseas, quality has suffered.... (reputedly) According to theory, moog has a 'premium' line of parts as well, which are supposed to be 'better'. XRF also makes balljoints, right here in the states...... supposed to be good.
If you have done axle seals on the front, you were just a few bolts away from balljoints in any event. You can rent the needed tools from your local parts store, and save yourself a fat pile of cash doing it yourself. Or, if you have the money, paying someone else to deal with it is sometimes worth it.
If you have done axle seals on the front, you were just a few bolts away from balljoints in any event. You can rent the needed tools from your local parts store, and save yourself a fat pile of cash doing it yourself. Or, if you have the money, paying someone else to deal with it is sometimes worth it.
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"SPECIAL" TOOLS NEEDED: Ball joint press (can rent from auto parts store)
Just remove the tire
caliper (use a something too tie it up so it doesn't hang which could damage the soft brake line) it takes 3/8
Hub 3 14mm 12 point sockets. To remove it use any method you feel is safe. Use antiseize on the hub surface on the knuckle after giving it a lite sanding. Also use it on the bolts.
Pull the axle out.
Take the nuts off the ball joints and remove the knuckle.
Use the press to press then out and in.
To put back together repeat process in the opposite order.
Tips: When putting the axle back in make sure it is clean and you don't hit the seal as it could cause damage. I usually put gear oil on the end so it didn't go in dry.
To tighten the bottom ball joint nut if you can't get it (it might spin mine did) put the truck on the ground then tighten it.
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From: Clayton MI
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Oe ball joints suck! When i got my truck it had 60K on it and they where trashed. Replaced them with moog and now have 207K And still going. I must have gotten the old moogs before they started skimping on quality. Of course i have 2500 to if that makes any difference.
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I put them in all my 2nd gens (a few 1500, 2 2500s, and my old 3500) all lasted less then 1 year (maybe 20,000 miles)