This one baffles me...
So I have another strange problem. And before I say anything else I had my battery and alt checked, bother were fine. Well the alt put out 105 amps, and I think its actually suppose to be higher...but anyways....
Started today when I went to get the oil changed. Going through the usual BS, told me to turn the car on, so I start it up and it starts, but as soon as the RPM drop down to idle it almost stalled out, but barely caught itself. I thought not to much of it, then when I went to turn it on again to leave and it does the same thing, almost dies. I get it home and am playing with it in park. I rev it up and everything is fine untill it gets there where it should stop and idle, but it goes down really low and almost dies. Did that every time I played with it. So earlier this afternoon go out to drive to class, start it up and it starts normal (doesn't come close to stalling). Then driving down the road I had radio with subs on, headlights, and thats it. But when driving and the RPM are high everything is fine. I hit the brakes and I notice the RPM drop REALLY low and the battery guage keeps going lower and lower, but once again it catches itself and revs back up a bit. So I turn EVERYTING off except headlights (it was dark out
). Next stop light comes same thing happens, except it actually does stall, and thats with everything turned off. I get to class babying it and on the drive home everything is just perfect. Never has RPM drop to low, or the battery guage never moves from where its suppose to be. I find that odd. In the drive way I turn on my high beams, turn the subs up really loud, blower on full blast, and everything else I can find to strain the battery and nothing! Its perfect, the lights don;t even dimm.
What could this be!!!
Like I said, AutoZone said the alt was putting out 105 amps. On my rebuild sheet from Chrysler I have the 136 amp alt...so does it look like this is my problem??
Started today when I went to get the oil changed. Going through the usual BS, told me to turn the car on, so I start it up and it starts, but as soon as the RPM drop down to idle it almost stalled out, but barely caught itself. I thought not to much of it, then when I went to turn it on again to leave and it does the same thing, almost dies. I get it home and am playing with it in park. I rev it up and everything is fine untill it gets there where it should stop and idle, but it goes down really low and almost dies. Did that every time I played with it. So earlier this afternoon go out to drive to class, start it up and it starts normal (doesn't come close to stalling). Then driving down the road I had radio with subs on, headlights, and thats it. But when driving and the RPM are high everything is fine. I hit the brakes and I notice the RPM drop REALLY low and the battery guage keeps going lower and lower, but once again it catches itself and revs back up a bit. So I turn EVERYTING off except headlights (it was dark out
). Next stop light comes same thing happens, except it actually does stall, and thats with everything turned off. I get to class babying it and on the drive home everything is just perfect. Never has RPM drop to low, or the battery guage never moves from where its suppose to be. I find that odd. In the drive way I turn on my high beams, turn the subs up really loud, blower on full blast, and everything else I can find to strain the battery and nothing! Its perfect, the lights don;t even dimm.What could this be!!!
Like I said, AutoZone said the alt was putting out 105 amps. On my rebuild sheet from Chrysler I have the 136 amp alt...so does it look like this is my problem??
ok... don't take this seriously......
somewhere something has come undone..
know what that something is???
A VACUUM HOSE!!!!!!!
na just playin.. do you got a cap on your system? that might be drawin too much fast amps..
somewhere something has come undone..
know what that something is???
A VACUUM HOSE!!!!!!!
na just playin.. do you got a cap on your system? that might be drawin too much fast amps..
No cap, and I got the vacuum diagram and checked all the hoses. There is one thats cracked a little bit but its not leaking. Theres a major RPM jump when you take if off, then they settle down when you reconect it.
So if mines putting out 105 just above 2000 RPM, dang. Looks like thats the problem. Those HO 136 alts are expensive
So if mines putting out 105 just above 2000 RPM, dang. Looks like thats the problem. Those HO 136 alts are expensive
I dont think it's an alternator/battery issue... have you checked for any codes yet? some codes will not trip the CE light. it sounds like the IAC valve is having a hard time controlling the idle... did you ever clean the TB?
I gotta agree with Steve on this one. It doesnt sound like the alternator/battery. I would definitely clean the TB.
I'd also look at actually uninstalling your amp. Disconnect it from the power cable and see how the truck runs. It could be that it's drawing too much power while its hooked up. Some manufacturer batteries just do not produce enough power from the get go to truly power a sound system and the truck. I know my explanation is not that great, but I can tell you that most sound systems should have a battery that produces over 600 cold cranking amps and roughly 725 cranking amps total. The battery is just barely producing enough power for the system and the battery is drained, thus causing problems for the truck. Once the alternator recharges it, it then seems to run fine. This happened to me on my Grand Marquis. I'm not saying this is the problem, just something you should look at.
One last thing, when's the last time you had your truck serviced? Namely, plugs, wires, filter etc... Could be something's not quite connected firmly or something's filthy.
I'd also look at actually uninstalling your amp. Disconnect it from the power cable and see how the truck runs. It could be that it's drawing too much power while its hooked up. Some manufacturer batteries just do not produce enough power from the get go to truly power a sound system and the truck. I know my explanation is not that great, but I can tell you that most sound systems should have a battery that produces over 600 cold cranking amps and roughly 725 cranking amps total. The battery is just barely producing enough power for the system and the battery is drained, thus causing problems for the truck. Once the alternator recharges it, it then seems to run fine. This happened to me on my Grand Marquis. I'm not saying this is the problem, just something you should look at.
One last thing, when's the last time you had your truck serviced? Namely, plugs, wires, filter etc... Could be something's not quite connected firmly or something's filthy.
I would pull the Idle Air Control motor out of the back of the throttle body and clean it - or just take the whole TB off and clean it and all the sensors. the IAC motor needs to be pulled out and the end of the plunger inside it cleaned off. I don't have the stereo or big alt. but I did have a dirty IAC which caused the idle problem you are describing.
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It is more likely the Voltage Regulator is shot. You said that it was charging at 15 amp, a spike like that indicates a bad VR. Which in turn will kill you alternator that is why it is putting out only 105 amps. We just had to replace 3 alternators because of the VR, volts spiked to 15.
I'll pull the TB and IAC this weekend.
My batts a 1000 cranking amps and 800 cold too, its never let me down. When it actually stalled while was driving the amp was turned off completely.
I've never cleaned the TB before, and I doubt it ever has been cleaned. But my plugs, cap, rotor, and filter and all new within 10k miles.
And your saying volt regulator huh? The voltmeter on my truck has read just above 14 ever since I got it, and 14 is smack in the middle.
Strange thing about this problem is that its completely random.
My batts a 1000 cranking amps and 800 cold too, its never let me down. When it actually stalled while was driving the amp was turned off completely.

I've never cleaned the TB before, and I doubt it ever has been cleaned. But my plugs, cap, rotor, and filter and all new within 10k miles.
And your saying volt regulator huh? The voltmeter on my truck has read just above 14 ever since I got it, and 14 is smack in the middle.
Strange thing about this problem is that its completely random.







