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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Battery power. Air drill is so last century tool
Keep the drill perpendicular to the broken stud, and before you start drilling, mark the center with the center punch. Start with small drill bit, it's easier to keep it straight (perpendicular). I usually staer with small, then take the middle size and lastly correct size for the thread. Sometimes it goes so spot on, that I can pry off the actual thread! But usually I just chase the threads with the tap, and blow the shavings off with compressed air.
I am now the proud owner of a drill set lol. Honestly I have needed one for a very long time so..
Sorry for all the questions.. I had a nightmare that my headgaskets were blown. HeyYou said run a compression test but like an idiot before I starting pulling the truck apart I did not run one. The plenum is still on and so are the valve covers but the thermostat house and bypass hose are off, the coolant has been drained. Can I still run a compression test? Probably a stupid question. Or do I have to put all the new stuff in and do a test when it’s all back together. I guess the issue I had where the truck would start but not stay running has me a little spooked.
On the chance i fail the compression test, can I pull the head without having to pull the plenum and everything else? It would just be the valve covers correct?
My next task is to pull the crank/timing chain cover install the new chain and drop the oil pan. Inspect the oil, replace the pump and rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Wish me luck.
Do the compression test after you've done with the timing chain, so that the damper is bolted to the crank. Then pull the plugs for the engine to rotate more easily. No need for coolant. Compression test can be done to an engine that has head/s attached and timing set. Actually, engine can be even out of the vehicle, like on engine hoist. So, don't worry about coolant. Check Finnegans garage from Youtube, latest episode where they drove three passes on dragstrip with Blasphemi, w/o coolant!
Oh yeah, about pulling the heads. Everything has to come off; intake manifold (plenum), exhaust manifold, pushrods along with rocker arms and all the bracketry thats attached to heads.
Do the compression test after you've done with the timing chain, so that the damper is bolted to the crank. Then pull the plugs for the engine to rotate more easily. No need for coolant. Compression test can be done to an engine that has head/s attached and timing set. Actually, engine can be even out of the vehicle, like on engine hoist. So, don't worry about coolant. Check Finnegans garage from Youtube, latest episode where they drove three passes on dragstrip with Blasphemi, w/o coolant!
Oh yeah, about pulling the heads. Everything has to come off; intake manifold (plenum), exhaust manifold, pushrods along with rocker arms and all the bracketry thats attached to heads.
Damn I was afraid of that! But okay awesome! Thank you. I will get a tester today and try to test that out while I am cleaning everything up. Will also be pulling that timing chain today hopefully if I ever get out of work! Thanks again! Will be back with a report or a question 😂
So I got the damper pull tool and was able to get the damper off without any issue. Ran into a small problem not sure if its worth noting but here goes. I tried making sure all the bolts were out of the timing chain cover. The cover was loose so I pulled gently on the top of the cover and it came forward some but felt like it was stuck on something. I pulled a little more gently forward and noticed that there were two bolts covered in oil that I did not notice before, they were two oil pan bolts that were attached to the timing chain cover. When I pulled the cover forward some I think the very front part of the oil pan moved a little with it (Bending but not bent if that makes sense) not sure if that could potentially ruin the mating surface of the oil pan. Appears to be okay as I didn't yank on it violently.
Front seal actually looks okay, still going to replace it. Timing chain had slack on the left side. Right side was a little stiffer. There is a metal fin right under the timing chain sprocket that I have not seen before. Is that normal? Also A LOT of coolant was leaking out what appears to be one of the screw holes I have attached a picture of for reference. Really wanted to work on her some more but the sun is going down... Also something else I noticed, there were three screws that didn't look OEM. They were double sided screws with what looks to be a 14MM nut in the middle separating the halfs. Didn't look right, thought I would run it by y'all.
Some of the timing cover bolts go into the coolant ports, normal....... Just put some thread sealer on those bolts. That metal tab is what helps lube the timing chain with engine oil it's factory.
Some of the timing cover bolts go into the coolant ports, normal....... Just put some thread sealer on those bolts. That metal tab is what helps lube the timing chain with engine oil it's factory.
Thanks Rebeltaz! I was curious.. I suppose that makes sense.
Good Morning! Well made a little more progress. Trying to get as much done as I can before the weekend so I can hit the ground running. Was finally able to get my plenum off. It was reaaally stuck on there about broke my arms getting it off. Replaced the timing chain and sprocket with a double roller as suggested. Question though, when I got the new chain on I made sure everything was pushed back and flush against the block, the left and right side of the chains have slack in them. Not as bad as the original, but the right side of the original was stiff, where as there is slop on both sides of this new chain. I have not moved the crank at all since adding the chain.
Pulled the bottom plate off the plenum. Not sure if this is factory or not but there was a lot of orange RTV all over. Then there was a mix of black RTV on the front and back side, some black RTV on the left bolt. I inspected the seal before pulling the plate and I did not see any obvious leaking or gasket failure. I also know even the slightest move in the plate can cause a leak so I didn't think much of it. It's very dirty. I spent most of the night cleaning it and I am not even half way done.
A new oil pan is like $20. I am half tempted to just scrap the one I currently have so I don't have to clean it lol. Plus I can make sure the seal is that much better. Just a thought I was running in my head.
**EDIT**
I should also mention that I borrowed a huge shop vac from work and tried cleaning the valley as much as possible. Still some sand or something got under the plenum. I cleaned it out as much as possible. Not cool though.
Last edited by potentshadow; Mar 21, 2019 at 08:16 AM.
A new oil pan is like $20. I am half tempted to just scrap the one I currently have so I don't have to clean it lol. Plus I can make sure the seal is that much better. Just a thought I was running in my head.
Word of caution about those cheap oil pans. While ago I watched episode of Deboss Garage on Youtube, and he had a Dodge w/Cummins that was destroyed because the cheap oil pan was painted from the inside, and over time that paint peeled off, getting it's way to oil pickup screen and losing oil pressure. Engine off, waiting, start and oil pressure was good until some point that paint found it's way to pickup and losing pressure again.
Word of caution about those cheap oil pans. While ago I watched episode of Deboss Garage on Youtube, and he had a Dodge w/Cummins that was destroyed because the cheap oil pan was painted from the inside, and over time that paint peeled off, getting it's way to oil pickup screen and losing oil pressure. Engine off, waiting, start and oil pressure was good until some point that paint found it's way to pickup and losing pressure again.
This is precisely why I mention what I am thinking about doing before I do it because I know you guys have either been through this once before or have seen the horror stories. It looks like I will just take the take and clean mine completely. My luck I would get one and it would do the same exact thing...
This is precisely why I mention what I am thinking about doing before I do it because I know you guys have either been through this once before or have seen the horror stories. It looks like I will just take the take and clean mine completely. My luck I would get one and it would do the same exact thing...
Depending on the condition of your oil pan you may have to buy one
Depending on the condition of your oil pan you may have to buy one
That is also true. If I do I will try to locate a MOPAR one. What is your opinion of the slack in the timing chain? Is that something to be concerned about or is that generally how double rollers are?
