Thanks guys.. I will. I looked over everything again before I put more oil and noticed two ports that go into the intake manifold on the driver side. One of them I thought was for the break booster but I cannot find a second hose to go into it the one above it. They’re right below the fuel line. Am I missing something?

 

On mine, a couple of them were capped off. Only one line goes to the brake booster.

 

Hey all. So I picked up some more oil and got her back to full. Started the truck this time with no hesitation and she seems to idle perfectly. There is a weird noise I cannot seem to locate, it gets louder under the truck it seems. I really hope its not the oil pump. I have attached a video link to this post. Shows a little bit of everything I am seeing. On the manifold as I mentioned there were two ports for hoses it looks like, HeyYou, you mentioned that yours were blocked off. One of mine is not, and its sucking in air, a lot of it. You can hear the sucking noise very clearly. Also if you're using headphones please lower the volume. Let the truck run for a good 10-15. Oil pressure was above 40 almost at max but not all the way. Temp never made it past 1/4 of the way give or take. Check gauges light went off. No leaks that I can see. I am not sure if I plugged the break booster into the wrong port or not. Also I took the oil fill cap off and put my hand there, no air, no sucking or pulsing so I guess that's a good sign? I should mention that wine goes away for gets really dull it seems in reverse.

 

If that open port is larger than the one the booster hose goes to, move the booster hose to that one, and cap the other one.

It actually sounds pretty good. I see a fair bit of oil burning off various parts though......

 

That's rust proofing the vehicle does on its own video won't load for me

 

Thanks HeyYou, I did exactly that. Seemed to have lessened that wine noise. As long as you think it sounds good then I’m okay with it.

The valve covers were extremely leaky before I replaced them. Oil everywhere is the only thing I can think of. It stopped smoking after about 30 min.

I swear y’all could have seen my smile from space, I got to drive her a little bit. First thing I did was go and give her a bath I think she more than deserves it. Drove great, breaks are a little hard to push but I think she just needs new breaks and maybe a line flush. Stopped and got new gas, checked oil, all good. Oil pressure is still high, when in park it does dip a little bit. Truck appears to be running cool.

On my my way home after about a good 40 min of driving or so my check gauge light came on. Noticed my battery indicator was dropping. By the time I got home the battery indicator was right at 8. Super low, pulled into the drive way. Parked and shut the truck off. Would not turn on, could hear the starter but the battery was dead. Ran codes on a OBD2 but my buddy cleared them before I could write it down. If my memory serves me right the code mentioned the charging system was to weak to charge the battery. No other codes.

I suspect a bad battery.. maybe alt? I don’t know if the alt is aftermarket or OEM. I don’t think it would be the PCM as I have read on some posts but I could be wrong. Battery is 2 years old. Autocraft silver. I will start with checking ground maybe?

Try now Mopar!

 

Put a full charge on the battery, and then have both alternator, and battery tested. The charging system should be around 14 volts, regardless of battery condition. Unfortunately, the voltage regulator is part of the PCM, so, if it has failed, you have two choices, replace the PCM, or, install an external regulator. (and leave the PCM wires hooked up as well, so it doesn't set codes.)

 

Just wanted to quickly say thank you to everyone who has helped me and dealt with noobish questions. Especially HeyYou, MoparFanatic21 and heik I have no doubt asked some head scratching questions. For what it’s worth, you guys are awesome and I truly believe this forum is the reason hundreds of not thousands of 2nd gen ram’s are still on the road.

I finished installing everything, including a new fuel assembly. I just took out the three bolts on the driver side, loosened the other side bolts a little more than have way, had some help lifting the bed and I used jack stands to keep the bed up. PIA getting the old one out but the new one went in and now my gas gauge works perfectly.

HeyYou, I was lucky. My truck broke down couple of weeks back, watched the battery go to 0 and the truck stalled out. Turns out it wasn’t the battery or the PCM (thankfully) it was the alt. Steady 14 for awhile now.

So so I have been driving the truck for a couple of weeks as my DD. It rides amazingly, I just had a couple of questions to see if I have any potential future issues on my hand.

1. There is an area where the crank shaft meets the back of the engine (transmission? The trans pan is right under it) and it looks like it might be leaking, it just rained here so I think some water got up there and made what I “think” is a leak looks more serious than it actually is. I have a picture below to show you what I mean. The fluid I found on the ground looked like oil, but it was not very thick at all, which is why I think water got there.

2. When switching into any of the gears, park, reverse, neutral or drive the truck jerks back and forth and you can hear a gear very distinctively switch it’s very noticeable. Is that normal?

3. While breaking around the 20 dropping down to 10 and 0 MPH the RPM guage slightly goes up about three times only about 100 (not 1000) RPM but you can hear the engine audibly rev up a little. Doesn’t seem like an issue but thought I would mention. Truck always idles at around 600RPM which is normal I think.

4. The truck is very very slow to launch. I have never seen 3K RPM when pushing the gas Pedel. It’s almost like the truck only gets faster at one rate and pushing the pedel in further doesn’t make it go any quicker. Does that make any sense? It doesn’t sputter, kick or anything it’s actually incredibly smooth when it shifts gears It’s just... slow. Maybe normal? It seems to not be as bad when I am around 70 MPH. I have tested it on a hill to see if there was a dip in performance or some sort of sputter or pull to isolate a plenum issue but it goes about the same and has no issue going up hill at all.

Thats really all I have noticed other than a small wine from the diff which I think is because I still need to replace the diff fluid and gasket. Hope the gears look good.

 

1. That's the tailhousing of the trans. And yep, thats a rear output seal leak. Drop the driveshaft, yank the old one, install the new one, (grease the area where it rides on the driveshaft really well, otherwise, you'll smoke it the first time you drive it) and be happy.

2. Not normal. Real curious what that's about......

3. That's the trans downshifting. Perfectly normal.

4. Could be any number of things. First thing I would suspect is a blown plenum though..... If you hold the gas about 3/4 of the way down, does it get to a point where the engine 'wakes up', and then accelerates better? If so, yeah. Plenum. Something else to consider would be TV cable adjustment. If it's sloppy, the truck won't think you are stepping on the gas as hard as you actually are, and you get premature shifts.

 

Thank you HeyYou! sorry for the delayed response I wanted to do some more looking before I posted something else.

Ordered a new seal, thank you sir. Engine Assy lube will work? So yea I am pretty sure I somehow messed up the plenum gasket when I installed it. Thought it all looked good so I will investigate further.

As for #2 after some more playing around it actually only seems to happen when moving to any gear from Park. I suspect the breaks as they're really bad, and so I think that's the breaks engaging causing the truck to move and stop.I am going to do some more looking maybe set a camera up under the truck to look.

I will replacing the gasket on my differential this weekend and putting new fluid in. So I will be in the area, and speaking of. I do not know when the last time my transmission fluid was changed. I plan to hit it all in one go:

1. I plan on doing the Trans line valve delete. Is this what I need: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/..._0_4799_108636
2. Should I drop the transmission pan and replace the transmission filter?
3. If yes to replacing the transmission fluid filter while I am there should I replace the governor solenoid?
4. What brand/type of transmission fluid do you use?