Which gear ratio for 35" tires
#31
If you're patient and look around, you could probably find decent used dana 60's front and rear with 4.10 gears in them for a good bit less than putting gears in your axles... you could afford to do full service on both front and rear axles, etc... and come out money ahead with stronger axles and perhaps better brakes to boot... You'd have to get 8 lug wheels...
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
I looked into that aswell pretty pricy up here to get new axles. How much work is it to swap them over to 3/4 ton axles? The nice wheels would have to go , or get adapters which not a fan of.
#32
[QUOTE=wca_tim;3435440]Last year, I bought a whole torched (engine, passenger compartment fire) 98 4x4 truck that had lift kit, steering and suspension upgrades for something like $800... it had 4.10 ratio Dan 60's front and rear with a posi in the rear... both axles were in good shape (as were the steering and suspension components, transmission, transfer case, aftermarket wheels, etc...) I had it towed the 50 miles home for $100, cut everything I wanted off of it in the driveway then had a local scrap guy come haul the rest away... At the time, just on craigslist, I found several complete 2nd gen axle sets within a half day drive that were 4.10 ratio and the ones that looked to have low miles and be in good shape were probably 750 to - 1.5k? Not saying it's a slam dunk or instant thing, but it's always an option...
just did a quick craigslist search and found 4 different dana 60 fronts with 4.10 gears within a 4-5 hour drive of here... most were $600 each...[/QUOTE
Thats very intrestng i really would like to do somethng like that but harder to come by up here and they want lie 1800 per axle . Im gonna just see what happens until i can afford another solution. Its not a daily driver
just did a quick craigslist search and found 4 different dana 60 fronts with 4.10 gears within a 4-5 hour drive of here... most were $600 each...[/QUOTE
Thats very intrestng i really would like to do somethng like that but harder to come by up here and they want lie 1800 per axle . Im gonna just see what happens until i can afford another solution. Its not a daily driver
#33
[QUOTE=96albertaram;3435463]
For that kind of money, you could buy NEW axles.......
Last year, I bought a whole torched (engine, passenger compartment fire) 98 4x4 truck that had lift kit, steering and suspension upgrades for something like $800... it had 4.10 ratio Dan 60's front and rear with a posi in the rear... both axles were in good shape (as were the steering and suspension components, transmission, transfer case, aftermarket wheels, etc...) I had it towed the 50 miles home for $100, cut everything I wanted off of it in the driveway then had a local scrap guy come haul the rest away... At the time, just on craigslist, I found several complete 2nd gen axle sets within a half day drive that were 4.10 ratio and the ones that looked to have low miles and be in good shape were probably 750 to - 1.5k? Not saying it's a slam dunk or instant thing, but it's always an option...
just did a quick craigslist search and found 4 different dana 60 fronts with 4.10 gears within a 4-5 hour drive of here... most were $600 each...[/QUOTE
Thats very intrestng i really would like to do somethng like that but harder to come by up here and they want lie 1800 per axle . Im gonna just see what happens until i can afford another solution. Its not a daily driver
just did a quick craigslist search and found 4 different dana 60 fronts with 4.10 gears within a 4-5 hour drive of here... most were $600 each...[/QUOTE
Thats very intrestng i really would like to do somethng like that but harder to come by up here and they want lie 1800 per axle . Im gonna just see what happens until i can afford another solution. Its not a daily driver
#36
#37
#40
Why after I wonder? (unless running thermostatted...). I was under the impression (but have never checked personally with measurements) that the radiator cooler would serve to warm the fluid and help maintain a constant temp when it was cold out and so should be last before going back to the engine? Of course it wouldn't matter if you were running a good thermostatted bypass...