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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
That's a lot of wiring/sensor related codes. A couple of ideas:
- Wiring harness got damaged
- Grounds missing
- PCM doesn't match harness. What year is the 5.9 engine/PCM ? From what I understand you should be able the get a 5.9 running with the 5.2 computer, maybe test that.
That's a lot of wiring/sensor related codes. A couple of ideas:
- Wiring harness got damaged
- Grounds missing
- PCM doesn't match harness. What year is the 5.9 engine/PCM ? From what I understand you should be able the get a 5.9 running with the 5.2 computer, maybe test that.
I need to get codes rechecked. Most of the trans related are likely cleared, forgot a connector when I first started it. That's why I tried to focus on just the first code I listed.
The pcm is easy enough to swap and try. I think I used the existing harness, already forgot. Everything plugged in and has a place, so not sure how that would be it, but of course everything is suspect.
That's a lot of wiring/sensor related codes. A couple of ideas:
- Wiring harness got damaged
- Grounds missing
- PCM doesn't match harness. What year is the 5.9 engine/PCM ? From what I understand you should be able the get a 5.9 running with the 5.2 computer, maybe test that.
I believe there was one ground on the rear of drivers side head - we never found where the other end went, so we chalked it up to an extra. Any idea where it goes?
I believe there was one ground on the rear of drivers side head - we never found where the other end went, so we chalked it up to an extra. Any idea where it goes?
Here is from the diagnostic manual with tests you can do and possible causes.
Fuel sync is overrated . It's actually a bit of a misnomer, there's only a 180 degree reluctor in the distributor which tells the PCM which set of cylinders is going to fire and which set is going through exhaust/intake cycle. All the timing for ignition and injection is derived from the crank position sensor. So you can play with turning the distributor a little and see if it gets better. There's also the quick and dirty method for setting fuel sync, shamelessly copied from the Internet:
Connect a voltmeter to the pickup plate connector by carefully back probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to battery ground.
Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one mark piston (TDC) on the vibration damper should line up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V8 XXXXX lines up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC.
Make sure you don't back up and turn the crank counterclockwise if you miss your mark. If you do, back it way up and then come back clockwise. You need to keep the engine turning in normal rotation to keep timing chain slack in the correct spot, or the cam/crank relationship won't be in their natural state when you set sync.
With the distributor clamp bolt loose and the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.
Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor clamp bolt.