Bucking after rebuild
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2018
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I'm planning for a tune but couldn't scrap together the funds all at once.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
Oh gee, I love their description...... First, we have:
Best with the stock beer keg manifold.
And later they say:
Works well with free flowing exhaust and intake.
Which the kegger is not......
And sure, it will "work" on non-programmable PCM's, but, they still recommend an sct tuner.......
If your truck is new enough, I would HIGHLY recommend the tuner....... Wake your motor right up. (add headers to the list of improvements, so you can justify the cost of the tuner to the wife.
)
Best with the stock beer keg manifold.
And later they say:
Works well with free flowing exhaust and intake.
Which the kegger is not......
And sure, it will "work" on non-programmable PCM's, but, they still recommend an sct tuner.......
If your truck is new enough, I would HIGHLY recommend the tuner....... Wake your motor right up. (add headers to the list of improvements, so you can justify the cost of the tuner to the wife.
)
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Oh gee, I love their description...... First, we have:
Best with the stock beer keg manifold.
And later they say:
Works well with free flowing exhaust and intake.
Which the kegger is not......
And sure, it will "work" on non-programmable PCM's, but, they still recommend an sct tuner.......
If your truck is new enough, I would HIGHLY recommend the tuner....... Wake your motor right up. (add headers to the list of improvements, so you can justify the cost of the tuner to the wife. )
Best with the stock beer keg manifold.
And later they say:
Works well with free flowing exhaust and intake.
Which the kegger is not......
And sure, it will "work" on non-programmable PCM's, but, they still recommend an sct tuner.......
If your truck is new enough, I would HIGHLY recommend the tuner....... Wake your motor right up. (add headers to the list of improvements, so you can justify the cost of the tuner to the wife.
)I'm going to get the Tuner and see how it goes. It is running currently.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 110
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Also on the list. Headers, new muffler (just for sound) Tuner and bored tb and call it good. Should do everything I need it to.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Oh gee, I love their description...... First, we have:
Best with the stock beer keg manifold.
And later they say:
Works well with free flowing exhaust and intake.
Which the kegger is not......
And sure, it will "work" on non-programmable PCM's, but, they still recommend an sct tuner.......
If your truck is new enough, I would HIGHLY recommend the tuner....... Wake your motor right up. (add headers to the list of improvements, so you can justify the cost of the tuner to the wife. )
Best with the stock beer keg manifold.
And later they say:
Works well with free flowing exhaust and intake.
Which the kegger is not......
And sure, it will "work" on non-programmable PCM's, but, they still recommend an sct tuner.......
If your truck is new enough, I would HIGHLY recommend the tuner....... Wake your motor right up. (add headers to the list of improvements, so you can justify the cost of the tuner to the wife.
)Either way I'm sticking with stock in that realm.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,403
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Cold air intake does nothing on these trucks, unless you spend a lot of time at high RPM. (where the engine isn't designed to run in any event.) The stock system already draws cold air from the passenger side fender, same place all the CAI systems get their air. The aftermarket systems may have slightly better flow numbers, but, as said, that only helps at high RPM.
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Professional
Joined: Aug 2018
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Fuel sync is overrated 
. It's actually a bit of a misnomer, there's only a 180 degree reluctor in the distributor which tells the PCM which set of cylinders is going to fire and which set is going through exhaust/intake cycle. All the timing for ignition and injection is derived from the crank position sensor. So you can play with turning the distributor a little and see if it gets better. There's also the quick and dirty method for setting fuel sync, shamelessly copied from the Internet:
Connect a voltmeter to the pickup plate connector by carefully back probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to battery ground.
Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one mark piston (TDC) on the vibration damper should line up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V8 XXXXX lines up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC.
Make sure you don't back up and turn the crank counterclockwise if you miss your mark. If you do, back it way up and then come back clockwise. You need to keep the engine turning in normal rotation to keep timing chain slack in the correct spot, or the cam/crank relationship won't be in their natural state when you set sync.
With the distributor clamp bolt loose and the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.
Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor clamp bolt.
. It's actually a bit of a misnomer, there's only a 180 degree reluctor in the distributor which tells the PCM which set of cylinders is going to fire and which set is going through exhaust/intake cycle. All the timing for ignition and injection is derived from the crank position sensor. So you can play with turning the distributor a little and see if it gets better. There's also the quick and dirty method for setting fuel sync, shamelessly copied from the Internet:Connect a voltmeter to the pickup plate connector by carefully back probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to battery ground.
Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one mark piston (TDC) on the vibration damper should line up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V8 XXXXX lines up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC.
Make sure you don't back up and turn the crank counterclockwise if you miss your mark. If you do, back it way up and then come back clockwise. You need to keep the engine turning in normal rotation to keep timing chain slack in the correct spot, or the cam/crank relationship won't be in their natural state when you set sync.
With the distributor clamp bolt loose and the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.
Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor clamp bolt.
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2018
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The connector for the camshaft position sensor. The sensor sits on a round plate, I guess that's why the original author called it pickup plate connector.