Bucking after rebuild
I'll have to keep looking, nothing stood out to us the first go round. Might have to find a spot and drill a hole.
Codes are now showing a cylinder 2 and 8 misfire. Fuel relay and trans related codes are gone.
Also now that my belt isnt squeaking, I feel like I can hear a vacuum leak but I can't tell for sure. I know if I pull the brake booster hose off at idle it has a strong vacuum but not sure if that means anything.
Also now that my belt isnt squeaking, I feel like I can hear a vacuum leak but I can't tell for sure. I know if I pull the brake booster hose off at idle it has a strong vacuum but not sure if that means anything.
Codes are now showing a cylinder 2 and 8 misfire. Fuel relay and trans related codes are gone.
Also now that my belt isnt squeaking, I feel like I can hear a vacuum leak but I can't tell for sure. I know if I pull the brake booster hose off at idle it has a strong vacuum but not sure if that means anything.
Also now that my belt isnt squeaking, I feel like I can hear a vacuum leak but I can't tell for sure. I know if I pull the brake booster hose off at idle it has a strong vacuum but not sure if that means anything.
Swapped the 5.2 pcm back in. It looked like it fixed it for a minute, but shortly reverted. Put the 5.9 pcm back and tried tweaking the distributor. Turned it half a turn (jk like a 1/4") clockwise, didn't start at all. Turned it back a fraction, started but struggled. A little bit more, seemed to start fine. Drove it, and I haven't noticed the jerking/bucking/whatever. Read codes, they no longer see the crank/cam code which doesn't make sense. I thought even if the issue was resolved, the code would still show until cleared?
The codes should be under stored codes not pending. Fuel sync I don't think controls the idle.
Yea idk what the deal is. Drove it a little more and pretty sure the issue is gone, but I still want to fine tune it. Still seems underpowered considering I went from a wore out 318 to a cammed (admittedly small cam) 360.











