This is the first time I’ve posted on the forum. I’ll try to be brief. 2001 1500 4wd 5.9. 104000 miles. I’ve owned it since 2005. AT has been an issue since day 1. It finally gave up the ghost this spring. I had it replaced by a local transmission shop. No problems so far. I have replaced all u-joints last fall. New gear lube in front diff and transfer case. I installed an Eaton truetrac a month ago in the rear end. It is working great. So I’ve decided to buy the power upgrades as I can afford them for install next spring. All that’s done now is a ARE cold air kit. The truck burns no oil and runs like a top. Just underpowered and 10 mpg. 3.55 gears.I have spent some time on the forums and Hughes website. I bought an air gap manifold last week. I am debating how far to go on the motor. As little as intake and cam kit, and as much as building a 408 with headers and the Indy x heads. It’s all expensive. Even doing the work myself. Mileage doesn’t really factor to me as long as it accompanies rear wheel power. I pull a boat with the truck, but mostly it’s an off road hunting rig. I don’t think I have cracked heads, but they are well seasoned. My primary options are replace intake, cam and lifters, rockers, valve springs, and timing set. Or maybe buy the new heads with springs installed, and besides the previous items, do the throttle body and get a tuner. I am not looking for a drag truck. But I would love to step the power up. I’ve read a lot of the tech threads on here. There is a lot of knowledge. I would appreciate opinions and advice. Right now it has factory exhaust manifolds and Y pipe. 3” after into a 3 chamber flowmaster.

 

CAI doesn't really help you. The factory system is more than adequate to the task for even a mildly built motor. (and given that trucks tend to spend their time in the lower end of the RPM range..... probably for pretty hefty builds as well.)

AirGap is a good start, but, lotsa bucks for nothing, unless you add some more to the equation.

Heads: Get some of the NEW casting fellers. They are stock replacements, but, are available with spring upgrades, and such. Or, if you want to spend some more, get the EQ monster magnums, with larger valves. Don't bother with doing anything to your stock heads, or any flavor of Reman heads. Decks are too thin, and they are prone to cracking. Run 'em thru a machine shop to recondition them, and the act of surfacing the head only makes the problem worse. New castings is where its at.

Cam: You drive a truck, and you tow with it. So, you want a cam that lends itself to that purpose. RV cams, or specific Towing cams are available. They don't make big horsepower numbers, but, they DO make gobs of torque down low, where you want it.

Exhaust: Since you are spending money on cam/heads/intake, don't neglect the exhaust. Even just doing shorties would be an improvement. Something like some pacesetter longtubes, and off-road y-pipe would be even better. Then three inch pipe all the way out the back. (and the muffler of your choice. Cat depends on whether they do inspections in your area, or, if you are paying someone else to do the exhaust, they will be required to install a cat. Magnaflow makes some good free-flowing cats.) if you wanna do duals, no smaller than 2.5 inch pipe. 3 inch would probably be too big for duals......

Tuner: with the above changes, you are going to REQUIRE a custom tune to make it run right. In all reality, a tuner would probably wake your motor up a bunch in and of itself. (even the basic canned tunes.....) Removing things like the death flash, and torque management can make a BIG difference. (and most tuners will do exactly that.) Hemifever, or Flyin' Ryan can help you out there.

 

What is CAI? If I get a tuner, can I get an update down the road when I add more? Just wondering how many variables the tuner controls, and how much they change per tune. Mopar is new to me. I grew up on Fords.

 

Cold Air Intake. You can most certainly update the tuner down the road. It all depends on what type of tune you are running

 

Thanks for the advice. I will need to work a lot of O.T. to pay for these parts. I am fascinated with the fuel sync part of changing a camshaft out. I had never even heard of this before.

 

Look on ebay for a used Snap On MT2500 scan tool. I have one for my truck, it lets you diagnose a few things and set the fuel sync also. Maybe someone here can recommend a less expensive way of setting fuel sync....

 

Actually, the MT2500 is a VERY useful tool to have. Unfortunately, you NEED a pretty high-zoot scanner to read fuel sync...... I don't know of anything cheaper that will do it.

 

I bought a snap on scanner on ebay. I will be searching for some new heads and an appropriate camshaft.

 

Nice truck. What wheels are those? Not stock I would imagine.

 

American Racing. They were nice once. Had a Doberman that loved to pee on them. It discolored the clear coat. Also on my list for replacement. The Dobe passed away a couple years ago.