Hey fella's, finally gettin around to pulling my 5.9L, 1997 4 x 4 Ram 1500. I've got the transfer case and tranny out, EZPZ, got everything on the engine off. Just held in by the two engine mounts. wondering where to hook up my chain. Pics would be great!!!! hint hint.. Just spent 2 hrs searchin' and wasting my time.. can't believe there isn't anything out there w/ pics!

Also, wondering if when I'm ready to re-install, can the tranny be hooked up to the engine for install? I've heard the bell housing could snap on this motor, but not sure if that is true.

 

Manual or auto trans? I have pulled engine/trans/t-case as a unit on other trucks numerous times, and never had an issue.

There are drilled holes on both ends of the heads, could bolt a chain to those, or, if you have the intake off, use the four corner intake bolt holes as well.

 

I generally pull the drivetrain as a unit. This makes it easier to separate them on the garage floor rather than in the vehicle. That's how the factory put it together. Ever wonder why some of the bolts at the top of the bell housing are so hard to get out?

Like HeyYou said, threaded holes work fine. I prefer to have extra chain to extra holes for security. I've also been known, when space permits, to run a ratchet strap to the tail shaft to support the transmission. Mainly for easy of handling. I've not pulled the engine from a 2nd gen but on the 1st gens I've worked on, I like to pull the radiator suupport so I don't have to lift it so high. I know the third gen trucks have a place to unbolt a bar on the support.

 

it's an auto. got the engine out. Now just need verification that when it's time to re-install, I can bolt the tranny up to the motor and drop in as an assembly. the FSM states not to do that..but if you all say I"m good, I'm good.. thanks..

 

Does the FSM say WHY you shouldn't do that?????? Wonder if that's just an OSHA thing in the manual....

 

I have mated them together and put them in like that.

 

I imagine it said that because an engineer said you shouldn't. Back in the late 70's, GM put V-6 and V-8 engines in the Monzas. (Restyled Vegas.) According to the factory, you had to pull the engine or buy a special tool that only the dealership could get to replace the rear plug on the drivers side. We got a '80 Monza in the salvage yard with the V-8. One of the guys bought it and found out why it came to us. 500 miles and the #7 plug would foul. He used a hole saw to cut a hole in the inner fender and covered it with a piece of rubber from an inner tube. 4 snap to hold it in place and a long extension. I don't remember which way he turned the wheels but he could change the plug in less than 10 minutes. He terrorized a bunch of Mustangs and Camaros with that car.

My brother-in-law and niece are both electrical engineers. She's just starting to design. I've pointed out that if it looks good on paper, but it's aggravating to use, it's a bad design. Make equipment intuitive and you have a better design in the metal stage with the final product. My sister hides my brother-in-laws tools. Never give an engineer tools. They will hurt themselves.