I'm thinking that the least expensive way that will still do what I need is what you both mentioned. But there are different ways to do that, as I've seen in some vids. I did see some guy used hose clamps by first removing the actuator case, sliding the sleeve or collar over to the left, then putting 2 hose clamps over the axle where the spleens were showing keeping the sleeve/collar in the left position. Then he removed the actuator in order to eliminate the fork, reinstalled the actuator to seal up the case and put the casing back on. Without the fork in place there was no worry with it interfering with the sleeve moving out of place.

Another bunch of guys kept the fork in place and locked it in position by installing some washers or other objects that kept the fork and the sleeve towards the left engaging both axles and that seemed to work also.

Now me, I'd have to decide which way would be more dependable and less work. Which way did you guys do it? I know MoparFanatic21 mentioned using hose clamps, so can I assume they were placed on the axle itself?

 

Either that, or on the shaft that the fork mounts to. The fork itself is held in place with a couple snap rings. So, remove the one you need to, slide the fork to where you want it, install the clamp on the shaft to keep it from moving to disengage.

You *might* be able to pull a snap ring, slide the fork over, and reinstall the snap-ring to hold it in the correct spot as well. Snap ring would just be on the other side of the fork than it normally is. Not sure if spacing will allow that trick though. I just fixed the vacuum system so it worked reliably.

Keep in mind though, that the actuator shaft is also what engages the switch, that turns on the 4x4 lite in the dash...... If you don't want the lite on all the time, you can just unplug the switch, and stash the wiring somewhere out of harms way.

 

Okay, now your scaring me ... lol

I'll have to have that checked while up on the lift. Would losing that snap ring cause problems all the time or only when in 4wd?

 

Mostly when in four wheel drive, but, the shaft can wander even in 2wd. Just more likely to in 4x4. If the snap ring IS gone, remove the fill plug FIRST, (to make sure you can.....) then drain the fluid out, and see what comes out. If there is a lot of metal shavings in the t-case, might be time to start looking for another one. Sometimes, they can be fun to find.

 

Well, I will definitely keep this in mind and check more into it as I go along with these repairs. On the upside, after 8 months of driving only in 2wd without any noise or grinding of any sort, I'm sure hoping that there's no problem with the t-case. Fingers crossed ... lol

 

It may be as easy as a stretched out chain too. My 96 sounded absolutely terrible in 4x4, but, it was just the chain slipping. Wasn't bad at all when I first got it, but, as time passed, it kept getting worse, until it was doing it all the time, but, only in 4x4.

 

Look at my thread titled "2001 2500 Restoration" ib used it on the actuator

 

Wow, I finally had a chance to glimpse through your thread. A lot of good stuff and I will definitely need to look at it in more detail in the near future, as I would like to restore my truck too. Unfortunately, this morning I took the truck to the mechanic for inspection and had him check the vacuum for the actuator and he seen that it was rusted through. Big hole in the side, so he took it upon himself to order a new actuator and install it. Good thing I told him not to do anything until I knew more on the vacuum (me being sarcastic). These mechanics around here just do repairs even if you tell them to talk to you first. Seriously, it just ticks me off. Oh well, it's all done, but now that I have a better vision on the situation, I know better for the next time. Then again, hopefully there won't be a next time.

I do need to get some information on a tailgate, as I need a new one, as well as a bumper. The problem I'm having with the tailgate is that I cannot find the hinge grommets that fit. Bought them a couple of times and no dice. This is making me hesitant to buy new, because they don't come with the tailgate so what do I do with a new tailgate and no grommets? It won't close correctly. I'll keep in touch when ready. The bumper I'll probably do first, once I can figure how to get the hitch out, since it's totally rusted in. The previous owner never removed it.

 

I bought generic Ram ones from eBay that fit my tailgate. As for the hitch there is only one way. Get a chain tie it to the hitch and a tree and use the truck to pull it out. My pap ran into the same problem, he said it felt like the truck was going to break

 

Update: So it has now been about two and a half months since I had the new actuator installed. A few weeks ago I started having trouble shifting into 4wd again and had to put the truck in neutral. Now, I am even having trouble in neutral and the shifter doesn't seem to go as far back as it did when it does shift into 4wd. Today, I even had a problem disengaging the 4wd. The same crap all over again. Not a happy camper right now.

Gonna take it back to the mechanic next week to recheck for vacuum leaks and to make sure the newly installed actuator hasn't bit the dust. It should still be under warranty, but this is ridiculous. As long as the mechanic honors the warranty, I'll be good to go. But if this continues, I'll be locking in the collar and leaving it at that.