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Getting obd 22 code - Engine coolant temp sensor out of range

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  #11  
Old 01-21-2020, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
I had luck and no luck with that. Someone's the computer can compensate quickly enough that the RPMs don't go up, sometimes they do. Had a vacuum leak on my 01 360 and my 07 Hemi neither would rev. It was a substantial vacuum leak. Give it a shot though and see what happens.
old enough computer on 96 to be slow.
well, update. went out in cold weather today. 40-50degrees.its been sitting a day. fires right up like it should.

I drive it on a 2-mile down the street and to my back pull in my driveway turn it off try to fire it up same thing doesn't want to start. Only after about 10 seconds of cranking will it start to catch and then finally start up again.
So this condition only happens when the engines warm.
still throws a 22 code.
maybe other clue or still think it's the throttle body stepper motor?
 
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Old 01-21-2020, 05:59 PM
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throttle body stepper motor
It's called an IAC (idle air control). Did you happen to clear the old code before putting in the new sensors?
 
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
It's called an IAC (idle air control). Did you happen to clear the old code before putting in the new sensors?
don't know how to clear it.. remove positive batt terminal for 5-10 mins?
both temp sensors brand new.
 
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:33 PM
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Disconnect battery cable. Turn on headlights. Turn off headlights. Reconnect battery cable. Turn ignition to "On". (not start) Count to 10. Start engine, and let the idle settle down. Drive it. See what happens.
 
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Old 01-22-2020, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Disconnect battery cable. Turn on headlights. Turn off headlights. Reconnect battery cable. Turn ignition to "On". (not start) Count to 10. Start engine, and let the idle settle down. Drive it. See what happens.
does it matter negative or positive disconnect?
 
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:23 PM
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Best plan is to disconnect the negative. That way, if you ground out your wrench while doing so, you don't get a light show......
 
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Old 01-23-2020, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Best plan is to disconnect the negative. That way, if you ground out your wrench while doing so, you don't get a light show......
ok. I know some tests need positive disconnected
 
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rrb6699
ok. I know some tests need positive disconnected
I was taught to ALWAYS disconnect the negative side first.
 
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I was taught to ALWAYS disconnect the negative side first.
I know I have always heard that too but to me if the positive connected it's easier to reconnect the circuit if the negative touches anything. Since most things are ground. When I'm not sure I just disconnect the whole battery.
I think on a parasitic draw test you leave the negative plugged in and then put the meter across between positive battery terminal and positive battery lead.
 
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Old 01-23-2020, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rrb6699
I know I have always heard that too but to me if the positive connected it's easier to reconnect the circuit if the negative touches anything. Since most things are ground. When I'm not sure I just disconnect the whole battery.
I think on a parasitic draw test you leave the negative plugged in and then put the meter across between positive battery terminal and positive battery lead.
THe only way to reconnect the circuit would be to put the negative cable back on the battery. Otherwise, incomplete circuit, so, no sparks, or other rudeness. The biggest issue with taking the positive cable off first, is if your wrench touches ANYTHING metal, sparks fly. And that just ain't good for the delicate electronics. I think they even have you disconnect the negative terminal first, before setting up the meter between the battery, and positive cable... then reconnect the negative.....
 
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