Ok i am completely redoing a '01 auto dually. I just completed a 12 valve and NV4500 swap into it and it's running and driving. Most of the body work is done consisting of cab corners and some rocker repair. Just about any wearable part has been replaced as well. Now I'm onto the details and looking for tips as I'm away at work and brainstorming 😆
1. Get all the warning lights off the dash.
2. Swap interior. Dually had cloth power seats but donor truck has heated leather. Is the heating wiring for the switches in the dash of a non leather truck?

Just crap running through my head now.

 

I didn't know any of the 2nd gens actually had heated seats...... I don't think I have ever seen that option on one.

Do any of your gauges work? You may have to resort to replacing the dash electronics, with 96-97 parts. A lot changed in 98 on the electronics side of the equation. ALL of the gauges were driven via the PCM... even the gas gauge.

 

What it was originally? Diesel/gasser?

 

Yeah one of the donor trucks has factory heated leather. The little storage slot in the dash just below the airbag switch is a driver and passenger switch panel on the trucks with the option.

I have a 98 PCM tied into the 01 harness and all is working besides the oil pressure. Speed, tach, fuel, temp are all good. Just wondering if there is a way to just disable the engine warning light all together. I have manual guages for all the critical bits.

 

Was originally a diesel.

 

I had two 01's 2500 and a 02 2500 with heated leather seats, they were really comfy and supportive. Going from a 24v (VP injection) to mechanical 12v, the check engine light is going to be on. We just removed the check engine bulb for the 24v to 12v swaps.
What did you end up doing for the tach sensor? You using the 12v fuel pump? I've done a few 24v to 12v swaps over the years. You using the 24v head or going 12v head route?

Curious if your still using the 24v ecm? You have any plans for the P7100 pump? FYI, you should check dowel pins on the front cover.

 

I'm using the full 12 valve engine with head. It's a P pump engine and has the dowel pin sorted. I have a 12v computer running along side the 24v computer. The tach runs off a kit on the crank. I am using the 24v electric pump in the tank. I assume it's better than the mechanical. I've read guys feed the mechanical with the electric but I haven't plumbed it that way.

 

Usually we just ran the 12v mechanical pump on engine with less than 500 rwhp. It has to be fairly new, from Cummin 12V P7100 pump. The pump should put out 40+psi if its in good shape. Have you done anything with the overflow valve? These work pretty decent, as the overflow valves get old and weak after awhile.
http://www.torkteknology.com/cummins...rk-tek-ofv010/

Curious on which P7100 pump/engine you have? Have you done the fifth gear fix on the NV4500? Curious are you running a 4wd or 2wd NV4500?
http://www.fifthgearrepair.com/nv4500repair.html

You should post some pics of your rebuild for us to drool on. Cheers buddy. I have a soft spot for Cummins 5.9/6.7L engines

 

Engine and tranny are out of a '97. The transmission is the NV4500 and apparently had the 5th gear fix. I'm not sure if the pump has been messed with at all. I don't plan on doing any big power upgrades. Once I get it on the road and all the bugs worked out I plan to tweak the pump a little. I drove the donor truck for a few months and it runs great and had good power. Will blow a little black under hard throttle but not obscene amounts. I'm putting it together for a economical hauler for my gooseneck car hauler that I put my Jeeps on.....so I just want good reliable power. In the future if like to pull the 5 speed in favor of a 6 speed. Will see.
Currently moving under its own power. Needs some more body, paint, rear fender, exhaust and a few front end parts.

 

Nice looking truck. The best 175HP P-pump mods are the rack plug, 4k gsk. The truck will just wake up, instead of laying down above 1800 rpm's. On the truck I had I removed the fueling plate, I just used my accelerator as the fueling plate. If the tamper bolts holding the AFC (anti-fueling control) have been replaced with regular bolts, then someone has been inside. Curious on what timing your running? Do you know if the timing pins are still in the gearbox/P-pump?