Sometimes the alarm wiring doesn't get its ground pulse correctly because of a short or many other reasons that could be tied into the alarm system. Inside your driver door there is a grewn/orange wire that runs to the key hole, when this is grounded it deactivates the alarm, splice and give this wire a solid ground, if your security light doesn't turn off then there are more problems that could result in a replacement of the PCM. Strangely enough after a lot of research I'm not seeing a deticated security module with the 99 and previous years looks to be controlled by the PCM though like a few other components in this vehicle it could be programmed across a few different modules somehow. For starters best bet is to try grounding that green/orange wire and see where your at.

You could have a problem with the door lock on the driver door, it is entirely what controls the alarm system, if the door doesn't unlock with the fob or key the wire doesn't get ground and security isn't deactivated. The door lock actuator actually pulls the door lock and makes the green/orange wire contact ground when you use the key fob, your key fob door unlock system actually doesn't send a signal to the alarm it mechanically actuates the door lock in the door giving the alarm wire a ground signal, that switch that's inside of the driver door lock key hole could be faulty and need to be replaced, it could not be triggering ground because it's broken.

[edit]x2 because I'm full of ideas I guess

The problem could be simple as one of the door lock links falling out of place, easy fix. Take apart the driver door and diagnose the situation in there, some people try to install audio systems and end up leaving wires unplugged, if the key switch is left unpluged then the alarm isn't getting any signal. If it's just that plug or a link you got yourself a fine ****** of an automobile. When the PCM resets fully so does the alarm, the relay inside the PCM actually gets a ground signal while it resets, so after so many key turns with the doors unlocked the alarm should reset causing it to randomly start. Could also be a short on that wire causing the system to activate and deactivate at improper times. I recommend getting inside the door first just because it's easy but you could also Try disconnecting the battery for 30 minuets+ with the vehicle fully unlocked, then reconnecting and seeing if it'll start, this resets the PCM, also shows you the wire is disconnected somewhere.

 

Key fobs won't disarm it?

 

I tried to ground the green/orange wire from the connector in the bcm (driver side, behind the crashbar under the steering wheel), without splicing the wire. If splicing makes a difference, than I'm definitely going to try that. Tomorrow I'll take apart the driver door panel and inspect that as well, I can try to ground the lock actuator there inside the door (?) and see what happens. Battery has been disconnected for so long, and so often, that the pcm still is not reset.

Key fob opens passenger and rear doors (+ tailgate), not the driver. Using the key in the driver door only that door would unlock. Using the key in passenger all the doors unlock.

Key fob doesn't disarm this immobilizer, nope. New batteries in both fobs.


I can add that there's no 12v at the injectors. I think that the antitheft operates this way, cutting power from those. All the relays are good

Thanks for all the answers

 

It shouldn't matter as long as it's grounded, might be a good idea to check the wire inside the door coming from the door lock key cylinder. They might have changed the wire color between dodge and jeep but they were all basically the same parts so I wouldn't think they did. If that doesn't work there might be a PCM problem or you'll have to trace the wires from the key lock cylinder to the PCM to see if there is a short somewhere. You might need to reprogram the PCM with dodge because it's stuck armed. You could optionally get a junk yard PCM and see if that solves your problem, our older trucks don't need vin match to operate they just need a value in the vin so a jeep matching your make and model will have what you need, you have security already so you don't need to worry about if the new PCM has security or not, if the new PCM came from a truck without security after 20 or so key turns the PCM will learn that your truck has security.

 

Just a little update. Checked and inspected all the wires from both doors to the bcm, everything seems fine. Found on another forum that the only way to disarm the alarm/immobilizer is by using the keyfob.

The driver door doesn't open with key fob. Other doors are ok. Driver door gets "signal" from passenger door module, which has the receiver for the keyfob. How to know what and where is the issue...
I'll take out the bcm and open it to see if something is wrong (cracked, rust), more that than Idk what to do. Probably tow it to a jeep dealer with a DRB3 would save me a lot headache.

 

I would say you have something wrong in the driver's door. As it should should be able to unlock all the doors with the key

 

I could get a spare driver door module (passenger door module needs reprogramming, if changed) and try if it fixes. That could be a cheap try at least

 

Ok, little update. I bought the passenger door module (with remote) and the BCM out of a '98 Grand Cherokee 5.2, and the PCM from another GC 5.2, 1996.
Hopefully I get everything on thursday, or after Easter.

It SHOULD work, at least letting me start and move around this car. If so, I'll later buy a reman PCM for the 5.9.

What an electronic nightmare

 

Yeah if you were close to me I'd bring my DRBlll over send it would help lol

 

And it runs and drive with no issues!
I figured out that the issue was into the passenger door module. This SHOULD be paired with the BCM, so replacing those 2 allowed me to disarm the immo.
The pcm was also shot, as I coudn't get any gauge. So I replaced that one as well, and the car started in no time.

Now I'm about to start removing rust, and welding new sliders. And it should be back on the road before the summer