Yep, good choice. Let us know how it turns out.

 

Well everyone I'm back.

Unfortunately the truck stalled again today is the very same fashion that it had been stalling before.

I'm starting to run out of ideas so I'm going to order a genuine mopar IAC and see if that fixes the issue. I will also try cleaning the Intake Air Temp Sensor to see if that helps at all.

Oliver

 

Update: 6/2/2020

Last night I tried replacing the IAC once more and got the same result. That's the 3rd IAC I've tried.

I then replaced my IAT (Intake charge air temp sensor) and fired it up. It died right away. I then restarted it and let it idle for a couple minutes before heading out on a drive. The truck still idles at about 400 rpm (according to the tac), but it did not die at any stop signs. Before I proclaim victory I plan to drive it around for the rest of the week to see if the problem returns. The ultra-low idle scares me, but maybe that's normal or my tac is off.

Oliver

 

That's exactly where my truck idles indeed warmed up

 

If the problem comes back I'd try the camshaft position sensor. The parts stores call it a pickup coil, It's the plastic ring under the rotor on the distributor that has a wire attached to it.
My truck had the death when hot and idling issue and that's what fixed it. It didn't do it often enough to set off the check engine light either.

 

If you've got one of those $30 scanners, you can a more accurate indication of your revs at idle. I wouldn't put any stock in what the dash tach says.

 

Dash tach is actually very accurate but could be failing

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for the info. For some reason I thought the truck was idling low, glad to hear that it's idling at a normal RPM.

I will report back after I get a chance to drive it some more tomorrow. I'm really really hoping I've got it fixed this time!

Oliver

 

Well, no dice.

The truck died on me at a stop sign again, then would continue trying to die when I let it coast and get below 1000rpm.

What's the next step here, try replacing the cam & crank sensors? Any troubleshoot steps I should be taking in between, besides just replacing parts and seeing if that fixes the problem?

If I unplug the cam sensor/crank sensor, will the truck run at all? I'd love to test the parts without having to pull/replace them.

I'm all open to ideas! I do have a scan tool btw and still no codes or engine lights.

 

I would start checking for vacuum leaks and do compression check. Check out Scotty Kilmer page on how to smoke out the intake system for leax.