01 Ram 2500 4x4 with about 130k mi.

Recently i slid under my truck to check an oil leak (valve cover has a pinhole corroded near a bolt hole. I picked up some junkyard valve covers with the same issue and jb welded the pinholes rotted in them. Paint is curing now, Hoping that will work.) I couldn't find new valve covers for the magnum engines. Only the old LA style. Does anyone make them?

Anyway, i found a big ol crack in my transmission bellhousing.



The crack


I sourced a used bellhousing from a friend of a friend who said his came from a light duty nv4500 with a gas engine. Sounded like exactly what i need so i grabbed it. Eyeballing them with one installed and the other in hand, they looked the same. Since i was going in, i bought a clutch kit to install as well. So a new pilot bearing, throwout bearing, friction disk, and pressure plate. This was my first time removing/installing an nv4500 and clutch. Upon installing the new bellhousing i realized its a little different. The long 4" bolts that thread through the engine block into the bellhousing are a different diameter. And two of the bolt holes for the starter shim/dust cover don't line up. Since i already had it out i kept going, got replacement bolts to make it fit and omitted the extra. All other bolts (transmission to bellhousing, starter, and slave cylinder) were interchangeable.


This bracket was cracked, so I welded it.

The difference in housings was only noticable here in the dust cover and the two long bolts.

Different diameter bolts circled here, in the old broken housing


When installing the new pilot bearing i wasn't aware it was directional, and a buddy who was helping put it in the crankshaft when I stepped away for a few minutes. I'm also 95% sure i installed the clutch fork correctly (part number faces right side up, if my spotty memory serves).

All that leads me to the following question/concern. There is an audible knocking sound coming from the trans while idling in neutral. It goes away when i press the clutch pedal down. It sounds like the throwout bearing to me. I can't hear the knocking while driving in any gear, and it doesn't seem to get louder when i increase RPMs in neutral. I also noticed the clutch grabs when the pedal is much lower than it used to with the old clutch (old clutch appeared to have quite a bit of life left in it too). For example, i used to have to lift the clutch pedal almost to the top of it's travel distance before the clutch engaged. It felt normal, and not excessively worn. Thats how it felt since i owned the truck (over 6 yrs). With the new clutch, as soon as i lift the pedal off the floor, the clutch engages (almost at the very bottom of pedal travel).

Has anyone else experienced this, or have any ideas as to what may be causing this noise? And is the clutch pedal feel normal for a new clutch? Maybe the bellhousing isn't interchangeable with mine? Or i installed the clutch fork backward like a dummy? I don't think there was any adjustment or special way of reinstalling the slave cylinder. Just hang it to the side and bolt it back on when done, don't open the hydraulics. Any input is appreciated.

 

The only numbers i could find on the housings. And i couldn't find these numbers in my parts manual 🤷‍♂️


Original cracked housing 52107640AB 63606?

Replacement housing 52107540 63605

 

A search shows the replacement housing as fitting a 2005 2500/3500 truck.... which *should* mean a Hemi.......

 

Did you find that by looking at the part number on the housing? I measured the depth of the housing (from the face that mates to the engine to the face that mates with the trans) and they were the same. Think that would still cause my funny clutch?

 

I just did a google search on the part number. (minus the letters at the end.)

There are a lot of possible differences that would account for the your clutch issues. Right up to how/where the fork mounts to the bell housing......

 

How the fork mounts is the same. Where, however is difficult to tell without taking precise measurements of the two. But man do they ever look the same.

Cracked

Replacement

if your search was correct and the replacement is from a 2005 truck, the shift fork is different. Rockauto is showing different part numbers for the two trucks. 😔😔 The throwout bearing and pivot ball look to be the same though.

 

You are right, the bell housing look exactly the same..... I really don't see much difference in the clutch forks either. Given that your clutch is hydraulic, could this simply be an issue with that system?

 

That's what i was wondering. However, most problems I've heard of involving a bad master or slave cylinder mean they're leaking either externally or internally. Internally usually means pressure isn't being exerted where it should and you have trouble shifting/putting it into gear. I've put about 300 miles on since i replaced the clutch and housing amd besides the catch point being different and light knocking sound, I haven't noticed any issues.

The guy that gave me the replacement housing confirmed it came from a 1996 2500 with the 360. Again, the clutch fork is a different part number from mine (same as the 2005 model oddly enough). The master cylinders are clearly different, and most slave cylinder part numbers are as well, with the exception of the Sachs. Everything else is the same. 🤔🤔

In the parts manual, the entire hydraulic system is labeled as a "master cylinder assembly"





The Sachs is the only slave cylinder part number that crosses.

 

Can you bleed the clutch??

 

I don't think so. I don't recall seeing a bleeder on the slave cylinder. From the factory service manual:

"The hydraulic linkage is serviced as an assembly only. The individual components that form the linkage assembly cannot be overhauled or serviced separately. The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at the factory during assembly operations. The hydraulic system should not require additional fluid under normal circumstances. The reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from the reservoir. Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm removed, fluid level should not be above indicator ring.

NOTE: If new linkage is being installed, do not remove the plastic shipping strap from slave cylinder push rod. The shipping strap will break on its own upon the first clutch application."

This is all it says other than the obvious instructions for removal/installation. When I removed the slave cylinder to hang it to the side, naturally the rod pushed all the way out, and stopped itself. New slave cylinders have the strap which breaks, as indicated. To reinstall I just pushed the rod back in by pressing the rod into the clutch fork, and tightening the nuts down. I can't imagine you'd have to replace the hydraulics EVERY time you remove them because the slave cylinder rod over extends.. that wouldn't make sense to me. Honestly I never even opened the reservoir cap. I just looked to see if there's fluid in there and left it alone.