ok so I head back from the stealership they said $3,570 because “muh labor intensive and wheel bearings are a really big deal that require specialized tools and blah blah freakin blah”

LoL I’m pretty sure my truck is barely even worth 3 grand if that hahahahahhahaha

looks like I saved myself a pretty penny.

 

Packwood Digital,

I just changed my entire front end. 1996 1500 2x4 360 magnum. Cost me $825 from rock auto....when I say everything, I mean everything. including springs, shocks, I/O TR, U/L ball joints, Control arm bushings, pitman arm"steering" and idler arm, stabilizer bushings sway bar bushings. Did it all with A/C delco parts. My advice to you would be to purchase replacement control arms with BJ and Bushings already in it. I went the other route and pressed everything out an back in and will not do that again......if you have any questions, please reach out.......Also did shocks front and back.

 

yea I just finished pushing the ball joints out upper and lower today and it was a magnificent pain in the a** the top one wasn’t sooo bad but the bottom
one was rediculous I have a ball joint removal and install tool (c-clamp style) and I hit it with my 1000ft/lb impact and then had to put a 4ft breaker bar on it to turn it even further before it finally popped out. It had so much force it actually sparked when it popped out. Your totally right I should have just bought a control arms it would have been much easier. Oh well I have the lower in and tomorrow just gotta pop the upper in and (hopefully, with fingers crossed) be done with it. I’ve never suv THIS much into any car/truck I’ve owned but this forum (and the lovely invention of Youtube) have given me a huge boost of confidence in doing these things myself and something that I once dreaded and was scared of doing myself is now actually kind of fun it’s like a puzzle.

I commend you for doing your entire front end how long did it take you? $850 is A LOT cheaper than getting it done At a shop I know this much! Did you do it just because or did you have some catastrophic failure that lead to it?

 

I commend you for doing your entire front end how long did it take you? $850 is A LOT cheaper than getting it done At a shop I know this much! Did you do it just because or did you have some catastrophic failure that lead to it?[/QUOTE]

I spent about 2 weeks, took my time. No, not just because. Everything was worn like what you showed in your video. No boots totally deteriorated slap everywhere......she is as tight as a tic now....I'll take a pic and upload it in a bit.....this is my boat truck and work truck and it made more noise and steering was atrocious, I was scared driving it...Not anymore.

 

You can't just buy the control arms. On a 4x4 the ball joints install into the axle housing.

Next time, run the bolt on the ball joint tool down with the impact, then take a big ****ing hammer (like this one https://harborfreight.com/4-lb-hardw...mer-69240.html) and start whacking the knuckle. The shock helps break them loose.

Good to hear you're gaining confidence. Just takes experience and a little help.

 

Yeah I called a shop about rebuilding my transmission about 5 years ago and got quoted 7 grand. And that wasn't for a reman either, that was just a basic rebuild. This also wasn't a dealer, this was just a ****ty Midas. Dealer would have been even more.

I bought a reman from ETE complete with torque converter, added a shift kit, and put it in myself. Total cost - $1300.

 

yea I payed awake last night after writing that reply and thinking and realized what you just said it’s connected to the housing. I didn’t think about just smacking it. I’ve got a 3lb hammer laying right there too. Go figure.

thanks it’s really gratifying getting it done!

 

very nice! 7 grand I might as well put a down payment in a new truck hahaha

 

Ok SO update time!

all seems well now no more annoying vibrations like crazy at the floor board I did have one issue when putting it all back together though...

the lower Allen/hex bolt that holds my caliper in place won’t fit snug. The threaded hole in the housing is kind of stripped/worn the threads catch but the bolt will wiggle loose...

I used a tap set and retreaded it which made it ever so slightly bigger but it does fit “better” but it’s still not snug like the top one.... I know the recommended option would be to replace the knuckle I guess but that just seems like a lot of work and more money. Has anyone had this happen before? I imagine I could just find a (slightly) larger diameter bolt of the same length and use that instead?

ideas?

 

I was looking at rock auto and it looks like they have bolts exactly for my issue. Anyone used one before?



https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...uide+pin,10281