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Overheating issue

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  #31  
Old 07-14-2020, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Pull the a/c compressor out of the way, makes seeing in there much easier. Also lets you look at the bypass hose. (notorious for 'mystery' coolant leaks. )

No more ac it was deleted lol
 
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2020, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by true blue
Years back, an old dinosaur mechanic told me to stop using "any kind of sealer" on the thermostat gasket. Use the plain paper style gasket with no sealer. The paper gasket swells from the antifrz encroachment and it swells up n, voila! I've been doing it on these stupid mopar thermostat housings for 3 decades now. No leaks. Just don't over torque your bolts and crush the gasket.

Hmmm I see. I think I actually messed up. I put gasket on first then thermostat. I'm assuming it's not seated properly. That's what I get for rushing
 
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2020, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
I forgot about grounding to the case, so thread sealer would be a bad idea! As HeyYou said verify where the leak is first
Ya my bet is the thermostat housing . I was a dummy and put on gasket first then thermostat. Anyone know where I can find torque specs for the housing bolts ?
 
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  #34  
Old 07-14-2020, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 96albertaram
Ya my bet is the thermostat housing . I was a dummy and put on gasket first then thermostat. Anyone know where I can find torque specs for the housing bolts ?
FSM should be in the cooling section
 
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  #35  
Old 07-15-2020, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Verify where the leak is coming from first. You *should* need to use anything on the threads...... Most that I have seen, if they are not dependent on contact with the manifold for their ground, they already have some thread sealer on them, right out of the box. If it IS leaking around the sensor, just tighten it up a bit more.

And yeah, the thermostat housing is notorious for being difficult to seal......

Yup you were right. was the housing. Got a better gasket and she good now. No more leaks !!!BUT of course now my gauge is reading it's running hot. I suspect the 2 wire sensor may be faulty as it is almost 5 years old since the engine re build . So far there about 2.5 jugs if antifreeze in there already. ( 3.78L PER JUG) maybe it's still pretty low ?

 
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  #36  
Old 07-15-2020, 11:20 AM
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If that is accurate, yeah, its running hot. Still in the "OK" range, for certain values of "OK"...... But still.... Make sure the cooling system is completely full. Make sure the fan clutch actually works the way it is supposed to. Maybe pick up an IR thermometer, and scan it across the radiator, see if its plugging up.....
 
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  #37  
Old 07-15-2020, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
If that is accurate, yeah, its running hot. Still in the "OK" range, for certain values of "OK"...... But still.... Make sure the cooling system is completely full. Make sure the fan clutch actually works the way it is supposed to. Maybe pick up an IR thermometer, and scan it across the radiator, see if its plugging up.....


I flushed the rad with water before I did everything and seemed pretty legit. How can I tell if it it's full of coolant beside it being full up to the rad cap? Seems like it needs more then 2.5 jugs. What temp should the rad be at operating temps ?
 
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  #38  
Old 07-15-2020, 03:13 PM
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When I change my antifrz, (block, heater coils and radiator), my beast requires around 5 gallons...96 Ram 1500/5.2
 
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  #39  
Old 07-15-2020, 03:42 PM
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Get yourself one of
these these
. Makes topping off cooling system much easier, and a LOT less messy.
 
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  #40  
Old 07-15-2020, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Get yourself one of these. Makes topping off cooling system much easier, and a LOT less messy.
That would be nice. so the machine has quite a lot coolant and isnt running super hot. I had a heat traxce gun watching the temps for half hour. I'm gonna say the 2 wire sensor is shot as it is quite old. I'll swap it out and see if I notice a difference
 
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