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  #11  
Old 08-16-2020, 04:31 PM
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I expect to see some crap down there, that's about where the PCV system vents anyway. If you see oil pooling down there, THAT is definitely bad. Plenum CAN give you some odd noises that are hard to trace.

Considering the age/mileage of your truck, I wouldn't be at all surprised to learn that the valve seals were shot. (in all reality, I WOULD be surprised if they WEREN'T.....)

Yeah, C'mon down. My work schedule is REALLY erratic, but, I don't work weekends. (at least, I don't go to work on weekends..... plenty to do around here though. ) I am not much of a drinker, but, I DO like coffee.
 
  #12  
Old 08-16-2020, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I expect to see some crap down there, that's about where the PCV system vents anyway. If you see oil pooling down there, THAT is definitely bad. Plenum CAN give you some odd noises that are hard to trace.

Considering the age/mileage of your truck, I wouldn't be at all surprised to learn that the valve seals were shot. (in all reality, I WOULD be surprised if they WEREN'T.....)

Yeah, C'mon down. My work schedule is REALLY erratic, but, I don't work weekends. (at least, I don't go to work on weekends..... plenty to do around here though. ) I am not much of a drinker, but, I DO like coffee.
oo I’ll shoot ya a PM

lol notice I said “drink” not beer lol I’m not much of a drinker either iced coffees on the other hand...
 
  #13  
Old 08-17-2020, 08:00 PM
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So I talked to Holley they said the slight increase in resistance is normal I actually checked the calibration on my multimeter and it was a couple points in the positive so it was actually my fault it tested high anyway. So coil pack ruled out. Starting today now more weird stuff...

when I’m park or neutral I can rev it like normal up to 4K and no sounds...

when I drive down the road I can’t get it past 1.5K I can get it up to 50mph and it shifts but it shifts way early and the gas pedal is extremely hard to push.

so it’s really hard to push the gas pedal, it doesn’t go over 1.5K on the rev and it has a loud hiss and feels crazy bogged down like I’m towing something crazy heavy.

i pulled the o2 sensor from the cat in case of a clog but zero change in performance

should I make a new thread for this?
 
  #14  
Old 08-17-2020, 08:29 PM
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Okay update!

I checked the front differential per advice from @Hey You and noticed a leak (number 1 in attached pic).

Then checked the fluid via the square bolt plug and it was incredibly low. BARELY any on my finger when I stick it in...

also I notice that where my front driveshaft normally plugs into spins freely (number 2 in pic) last I remember it didn’t spin freely when the wheels are on the ground...

 
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Old 08-17-2020, 10:24 PM
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Front diff behavior is normal. The thing on the right side of the pic, is the CAD. (central axle disconnect) If you aren't in four wheel drive, that is disengaged. (it's a two piece axle on that side.) So, when you turn the pinion, the differential spins the free axle. Completely normal.

Front seal doesn't look like it is leaking?? (at least, not from the pic.....) CAD is leaking though. Its a thick cork gasket there, it's probably old, and weeping. Careful with those bolts, they like to break off...... (don't ask me how I know this.....)

As for the hissing, have you cleaned your throttle body lately? The IAC well is notorious for accumulating a fair bit of crap, that prevents it from moving properly. Airflow thru there will make some odd noises. If it isn't able to close off completely, it *might* be a contributor to your issue. But, I don't think its the whole issue. Clean it, see what happens. (leave the battery disconnected while you do your cleaning. Take the TB off to do it. Pull the IAC, and clean the well VERY well. Careful with the IAC itself, don't wanna spin it, just wipe it off, and call it a day.) Once it is all back together, (and the battery hooked back up..... don't forget to reset your clock....) turn the ignition to "on" (not start) count to ten, THEN start the engine. (don't touch anything while you are counting.) The PCM should figure out idle again fairly quickly.

I wonder if your trans is in limp mode, or simply shifting to quickly. Check the operation of the TV cable. Make sure it is adjusted properly. (procedure is in the service manual.) Go for a drive. Any better???

If you like, I can change the title of the thread, keep all the information in here, where it's easy to find. Or, you can start a new thread, just include all the pertinent information. Let me know which way you wanna go.

Is your rear pinion seal leaking at all??
 
  #16  
Old 08-17-2020, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Front diff behavior is normal. The thing on the right side of the pic, is the CAD. (central axle disconnect) If you aren't in four wheel drive, that is disengaged. (it's a two piece axle on that side.) So, when you turn the pinion, the differential spins the free axle. Completely normal.

Front seal doesn't look like it is leaking?? (at least, not from the pic.....) CAD is leaking though. Its a thick cork gasket there, it's probably old, and weeping. Careful with those bolts, they like to break off...... (don't ask me how I know this.....)

As for the hissing, have you cleaned your throttle body lately? The IAC well is notorious for accumulating a fair bit of crap, that prevents it from moving properly. Airflow thru there will make some odd noises. If it isn't able to close off completely, it *might* be a contributor to your issue. But, I don't think its the whole issue. Clean it, see what happens. (leave the battery disconnected while you do your cleaning. Take the TB off to do it. Pull the IAC, and clean the well VERY well. Careful with the IAC itself, don't wanna spin it, just wipe it off, and call it a day.) Once it is all back together, (and the battery hooked back up..... don't forget to reset your clock....) turn the ignition to "on" (not start) count to ten, THEN start the engine. (don't touch anything while you are counting.) The PCM should figure out idle again fairly quickly.

I wonder if your trans is in limp mode, or simply shifting to quickly. Check the operation of the TV cable. Make sure it is adjusted properly. (procedure is in the service manual.) Go for a drive. Any better???

If you like, I can change the title of the thread, keep all the information in here, where it's easy to find. Or, you can start a new thread, just include all the pertinent information. Let me know which way you wanna go.

Is your rear pinion seal leaking at all??
yea the CAD isn’t dripping consistently but it’s all wet at the bottom I can literally wipe the fluid away with fingers but then again the front differential is empty if I fill it maybe the leak would be more pronounced...

. I was going the check the IAC tomorrow I’ll follow your advice.

My thinking is It has to be something with a moving part considering when it’s in park I can rev it to 4K with no hiss and what seems like no issue even the pedal is softer but as soon as I put it in drive and try to go the pedal is hard and I get the hiss and can’t rev past 1.5k

trans in limo mode would only allow it to stay/stop shifting once in second gear though right? I’m able to go all the way into 4th gear by throttling the gas pedal while driving it’s just feels like I’m towing a yacht.

my rear pinion seal is leaking but very slow I still have plenty of fluid in the rear diff. Whereas the front differential has almost no flui I have to shove my finger deep in the hole to come up with any...

and the front differential having no fluid would “kinda” explain my issue / symptoms wouldn’t it?

yea can we change the title to something like “hissing sound loss of power” or something similar? I trust your judgement.
 
  #17  
Old 08-18-2020, 09:34 AM
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Will the gas pedal do its trick with the engine NOT running? Ignition on, engine off, put it in drive, does the pedal get stiff?? There *shouldn't* be a relationship there...... But hey, ya just never know.

Do you have a scanner that can read live data?

Are you getting any codes at all?
 
  #18  
Old 08-18-2020, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Will the gas pedal do its trick with the engine NOT running? Ignition on, engine off, put it in drive, does the pedal get stiff?? There *shouldn't* be a relationship there...... But hey, ya just never know.

Do you have a scanner that can read live data?

Are you getting any codes at all?
ignition on engine off the pedal is incredibly stiff I can only move it maybe an inch at MOST

checked the throttle cable and butterfly it’s loose and easy to move by hand I can open the butterfly with one finger.

no codes, my cheapo scanner doesn’t do live data but I ordered a new one that does last week, still waiting in snail mail :/

could something be binding behind my pedal? The feel of the throttle under the hood doesn’t match to the feel army pedal that’s for sure
 

Last edited by Packwood Digital; 08-18-2020 at 10:41 AM.
  #19  
Old 08-18-2020, 10:47 AM
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Worth taking a look anyway. Pedal just pulls the cable... so, if the tb is good, and the cable is good, that just leaves the pedal.

Is the cable routed properly on the tb?
 
  #20  
Old 08-18-2020, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Worth taking a look anyway. Pedal just pulls the cable... so, if the tb is good, and the cable is good, that just leaves the pedal.

Is the cable routed properly on the tb?
i mean the previous owner wasn’t a genius by any means but I’ll say it’s not routed any different than it was a few days ago when it ran fine... I’ll follow the line and see what I find.

i remember yesterday it was not stiff with the engine on and in park though... or maybe I don’t remember correctly... I’ll go try Again right now.

i filled the front differential with fluid just now and it was REALLY thirsty apparently. Wiped everything down good so I could see if it weeps from anywhere while parked.
 


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