Researched a lot on the topic of shift problems. Slipping, sticking, etc. etc. Problem with ours is hanging too long in 1st gear. Fluid is fresh and in the OK range. Watched Youtubes on front band adjustments. Looked like something I could do. After finally nailing down which transmission type 1999 RAM 1500/ V8 has, and receiving my "in./lb" torque wrench in the mail, I got on it today. Disappointing outcome.

Set the wrench to 72 in./lbs., removed the 3/4" lock nut and started turning the T40 screw. And turning, and turning, .... to the point I was seriously concerned the screw was going to fall off inside the transmission body. At last, it tightened, and I torqued until the wrench "clicked". Then, using a regular ratchet wrench I reversed or "backed off" the screw 2+7/8 turns. That went ok, because I had free motion room for more than 1/4 turn. So I counted 11 of those quarter turns, plus half as much for that 7th/of 8ths.

Here's where it got "interesting". While keeping the T40 from turning out any further, I go to start the lock nut on, .... but no threads! The T40 was still a good bit inside the hole. I had no choice but to turn the screw a lot more CC-wise until enough threads appeared to allow the nut to really grab and stay tight. I drove the truck up and down our country road, and it pretty much behaved exactly as before even though I'm certain the T40 screw was still further clockwise than when I started.

I'm questioning it all now. If the transmission is hanging up in 1st gear, is the Front band even an issue? Failed to mention that after eventually moving on to second gear, it's all good from there. And there's so many sensors etc. that need to function properly. I think I just wanted to try those things that I could possibly detect and correct myself, before turning it (and my wallet) over to the auto repair guys.

 

Isn't the front band adjuster INSIDE the trans? I think the one on the outside is the rear band????

If you have to turn 'em that far in, the bands are essentially worn out. There are 'slip in' bands available, but, its a bandaid fix, as if the bands are that worn, so is everything else in the trans. Might be worth another 10 or 20 thousand miles though.... Transmissioncenter.net has the slip-in bands.

 

I've been reluctant to return here, expecting a good thrashin'! Ha. That wasn't so bad, "Hey You". The one thing I'm certain of is that it's the Front band, the external adjustment. What I'm not certain of is which gear(s) it applies to. I watched the most applicable YouTube again, and realized my blunder. The 'tuber that posted it did NOT remove the locking nut. And, he turned the adjusting screw CW first until the tip was flush with the lock nut. In hindsight I unfortunately was recalling 2 different Youtubes. In this other video, which I've lost track of, the guy said in effect, "You can leave the nut in on ..... I prefer to remove it" Wish I could find it again, because I can't imagine why he removed the nut, nor at what point he turned it back onto the threads of the T40 screw?

Anyhoozit', the very next morning I was back underneath correcting my error. The T40 screw now extends about 1/4" outside the locking nut. It actually seems to have helped the shifting issue. At least some of the time, which is why I'm not completely satisfied that there's not room for improvement.

For example, this afternoon I made a short trip, about 11 miles round trip. During the first half, the trans shifted from 1st to 2nd at what seemed a reasonable point, and smoothly. On the return trip, it began hanging a bit longer in 1st, as before though not nearly as long. A possible factor may be that I entered a busy road, accelerating to avoid being one "those" drivers. ;-)

Raises another question; does are some symptoms of tranny problems more prevalent as the engine and transmission heats up? I'm going to return when I've condensed some points, and perhaps can supply a link, but I'm still uncertain about the torqueing procedure. I can read 3 different sets of instructions on the exact same task, with slightly different wording that creates confusion. The Youtubes already caused enough of that.

 

Have a service manual for your truck yet? If not, get one here. There is a chart that shows which band is doing what, and when. (along with the hydraulics.)

Heat related issues are generally attributed to the electronics. If they are original, probably wouldn't hurt to change 'em out. (governor pressure sensor, and solenoid, and output speed sensor isn't a bad idea either.) Borg Warner makes a 'heavy duty' set for just such an occasion. If the underlying issue is simply worn parts though, it won't help.

 

I re-read the text versions of the Front band adjustments, and they're fairly consistent. I watched the Youtube that I had favored as a guide for my attempt. I now see that it was a bit mis-leading just as the other I mentioned that led to my removal of the lock nut before torquing the T40 screw. Sorry i'm not providing a link to either of them.

In my preferred video, after turning the T40 screw so that it's "flush" with the lock nut, the guy states that he likes to get the lock nut "finger tight" against the trans. case. You can see him turning the nut CW. This isn't a step noted in any of the other videos or text instructions that I found. There's a problem with that. When you proceed to torque the T40 screw and the locknut turns with it, you'd really be torquing into the locknut and not what's connected to the inside end of the screw. If you hold the locknut with a wrench, and it wasn't real tight to start with, then it'd work out. But in the video, as the guy is torquing the T40 screw, the locknut can be seen turning freely, which is good. This means he must have backed it off a few turns, leaving room to turn the screw some without it locking up.

That's per all the instructions, turning the lock nut 3-5 turns CCW before trying to torque the T40. If anyone's confused or disagrees, then I've done a poor job of describing the video. It's just my luck, because by following his "finger tight" before torquing method, my 2nd attempt at it is also flawed. I obviously turned the T40 into the locknut, jammed against the trans. case, until reaching the 72 in./lb point. Strangely enough, the screw is now about 1/4" outside of the locknut, similar to before I began the first time. Even more strange.... the transmission is shifting far better than it did before ! Despite the fact that the T40 screw was nearly lost inside the trans. on my 1st attempt, meaning something is way off, missing or broken inside. Go figger'! I believe this thread can be closed now, if the that's the term.

 

Tightening the bands isn't hard. Torque the T40 to 72 in one back off 1.5 to 1.75 turns and tighten the jam nut