Well I aligned my truck to have the most caster possible at 8.5 to keep it straight for towing and stuff since I got the 37s and rc lift which we all know are stiffer than bds but still work. Also i75 has a lot of construction going on so I’d prefer to have the wide tires not pull side to side when the road gets all narly the problem is my front drive shaft is at a terrible angle and the joints don’t have much before bind while sitting, but to get that better I gotta go a lot lower on caster so for 5” suspension lift what casters is the lowest I can go before I’m a shopping cart? Offroad I notice the bad angle in 4wd it drains forward momentum. And I do like how it drives now.

 

There're a few companies out there selling transfer case indexing ring kits that clock the transfer case a few degrees when installed. It's supposed to lower the output shaft a few inches depending on how far the kit you buy rotates it.

Maybe if you did that you could keep the caster you like running. and get rid of the shaft joint binding concerns.

I was thinking about maybe trying one of these kits myself.

 

Generally you want to run less caster with bigger tires. The factory caster angle numbers are based on stock tire sizes but they are merely a convenient way to adjust "trail". Trail is the distance between the line that the knuckle rotates around and the tire contact patch center. It affects the steering return and how much force it takes to steer. If you increase the tire diameter it increases the trail as well and with it how much centering force is generated. If you increase caster as well it adds to the trail increase from the tires.

Assuming you are running wheels with a reasonable offset (if the center of the contact patch moves way out it might require a lot of caster) try running in the factory spec range or even a little less in the low 2 degree range. See how squirrely it feels and increase until there's a good balance between straight line tracking and driveline angle.

 

Okay I’ll start at 2 and see how it goes, and idk if I could clock the transfer cause I have a skid plate

 

You still can just meet require notching the Crossmember if you index it a lot

 

well I look into it if they are cheap but I’ll try the caster see if i still like it or can get it right for everything if not I’ll have to clock it

 

Try backing the caster down to 6-7 degrees try to stay above 5 for sure.

 

alright I try out 5 at first it might work for pin angle Funny thing is the rear angle after I lifted it was perfect though I can’t floor it from dead stop cause it’ll wrap twice but it never can be easy to do a modification after one thing ya gotta fix 10 others