Helping a friend replace his engine on 99 ram 1500 4x4 manual 5.2

Someone else removed the engine and didn't mark anything. It's a crate motor so I've got everything together and engine in truck. It runs like ****. Had a code for cam sensor in distributor. Replaced both cam and crank sensors. Code went away for about 1 min. Same code came back. Not idling hardly. Vacuum a little low (14in). Put new distributor cap and rotor on. Will try tomorrow. I got 5v going to cam sensor and crank sensor. I'm a little stumped. Anybody know if it will throw a cam sensor code if distributor or plug wire bad? I would think that would cause misfire code. Does the flywheel need to be clocked when installed for crank sensor? Cause I didn't. TDC is perfectly aligned with mark under distributor cap on cam sensor. On compression stroke. Any ideas?

 

Is it a stock build?

 

yes it is

 

The fuel sync ( timing) needs to be set. Ignition timing can't be changed. There is a notch in the distributor to align the rotor with. This gets it close enough to run to get to someone with a scanner that reads the fuel sync so they can set it.
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yea I saw a video on YouTube and got the cam sensor in a good enough spot to run. And I can tell both sensors are communicating with pcm cause one of the injectors pushed out of the fuel rail and squirted gas everywhere. The person that tore apart the original motor must have tossed the clips for the injectors. Not too big of a deal. Just has made the entire job a pain in the ***

 

Is it possible to get really close without using the scanner. Close enough that it would run almost unnoticeable well? The reason I ask is cause no matter where I position the distributor it runs like crap. Dies and won't idle at all. Plugs are carbon fouled. Has code for cam sensor. Using a scanner turns off the pcm from timing fuel so it can be set without pcm correcting correct? Then u switch it back on when you set it manually?

The frustrating part is nothing was marked when it was ripped apart. Hopefully the injector plugs are plugged into the correct injectors. I don't have an expensive scanner so I'm kind of guessing at this point

 

Yes you can get it pretty close without the diag tool. I like to say "fuel sync is overrated" The name is misleading as it is basically used the same way as a cam sensor, it tells the PCM which group of injectors get fuel in the current revolution of the crankshaft (1-8-4-3 or 6-5-7-2). The "pulse ring" in the distributor is nothing more than 180 degrees on and 180 degrees off. The timing of the injectors is derived from the crank position sensor.

The diag tool turns off the automatic compensation for the cam sensor signal and shows how far off the signal is from perfect. That compensation also makes it run with less than accurate by-hand adjustment.

What's the actual code you're getting ?

 

P1391 Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP
p0340 Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Malfunction
*this is what my cheap little elm327 android phone app reads
brand new crank and cam sensors
Getting 5v to both

 

The P0340 is likely causing the other code. Two possibilities: The new cam sensor is bad (happens more than you'd think with Chinesium products). If you still have an old known good one try it. Or the wiring has an issue, could be actual sensor wiring or some bad ground. See this video for some tips: Instead of bumping the key you can just turn the engine by hand.

 

Oh cool thanks. I will try what the video shows on Friday