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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
The P0340 is likely causing the other code. Two possibilities: The new cam sensor is bad (happens more than you'd think with Chinesium products). If you still have an old known good one try it. Or the wiring has an issue, could be actual sensor wiring or some bad ground. See this video for some tips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXKf96wqaoU Instead of bumping the key you can just turn the engine by hand.
dumb question....
Tdc on compression. I take #1 spark plug out and rotate with my finger over spark plug hole. When I feel pressure pushing out and continue to bring the mark to tdc. That's in the compression stroke? Or is that at the end of compression stroke?
You can do it that way but a more accurate way is to remove the valve cover so you can see the valves. Turn the crank(BY HAND) and follow the strokes until you get to compression. Verify the piston is at TDC(#1 cylinder) with a skinny screwdriver in the spark plug hole. Might want to see what the balencer is reading also. You can't always count on them being right because they can move due to the rubber deteriorating. Then check the distributor and see where you are. It should be like this..
This is only to set the fuel sync, If you are still getting the cam sensor fault code you need to use a known good one or new one(mopar or delphi stay away from anything BWD). The fault code is set because the pcm is not seeing any input (or sporadic input) from the cam sensor. The fuel sync setting being off shouldn't throw the code.
You can do it that way but a more accurate way is to remove the valve cover so you can see the valves. Turn the crank(BY HAND) and follow the strokes until you get to compression. Verify the piston is at TDC(#1 cylinder) with a skinny screwdriver in the spark plug hole. Might want to see what the balencer is reading also. You can't always count on them being right because they can move due to the rubber deteriorating. Then check the distributor and see where you are. It should be like this..
This is only to set the fuel sync, If you are still getting the cam sensor fault code you need to use a known good one or new one(mopar or delphi stay away from anything BWD). The fault code is set because the pcm is not seeing any input (or sporadic input) from the cam sensor. The fuel sync setting being off shouldn't throw the code.
I'll take my cam sensor off and try it. Originally when installed the distributor on the engine stand I wiggled both lifters on 1 at tdc. Since then I've put my multimeter on the cam signal wire and slowly turned engine by hand and watched meter. One revolution at 5v and one not. Seems to be working fine. But I'll try my cam sensor too
thanks
I'll take my cam sensor off and try it. Originally when installed the distributor on the engine stand I wiggled both lifters on 1 at tdc. Since then I've put my multimeter on the cam signal wire and slowly turned engine by hand and watched meter. One revolution at 5v and one not. Seems to be working fine. But I'll try my cam sensor too
thanks
I put my cam sensor on and same result. Same code. My cheap elm327 shows no fuel trims. I'm guessing the cam sensor is timing for fuel and if the pcm is not happy it doesn't open injectors? Idk. I wouldn't think it would run at all with 0 fuel trim but... truck runs but it barely idles and motor is shaking a little. Kind of out of ideas myself. Haven't tried my pcm on my truck yet but I don't really want to do that...
are the fuel trims reading 0 because of the sensor?
Fuel trims is all about mixture ratio, not timing. O2 sensors tell the PCM what they think is going on, PCM adjusts from there. If you have cleared codes, then the PCM also loses all 'learned' behavior, and trims reset to zero.
Check the connections at the PCM. If the 'splash guard' isn't there any more, moisture can get into the connectors, and corrode them..... Sometimes, just unplugging,/plugging them back in several times is enough to fix it. Otherwise, may be a PCM problem.....
Fuel trims is all about mixture ratio, not timing. O2 sensors tell the PCM what they think is going on, PCM adjusts from there. If you have cleared codes, then the PCM also loses all 'learned' behavior, and trims reset to zero.
Check the connections at the PCM. If the 'splash guard' isn't there any more, moisture can get into the connectors, and corrode them..... Sometimes, just unplugging,/plugging them back in several times is enough to fix it. Otherwise, may be a PCM problem.....
After exhausting all other possibilities I tried my pcm and it fired right up and ran fine....
Tdc
