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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 01:53 PM
  #21  
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Got it fixed and bleed the system. Don't know if I'm doing it right but now the heat is worse before the leak . This damn thing
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 07:50 PM
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Is your blend door working properly? My wife was complaining about a lack of heat in her van..... I turned the temp **** all the way up, and it about cooked us out. She blamed that on me too......
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Is your blend door working properly? My wife was complaining about a lack of heat in her van..... I turned the temp **** all the way up, and it about cooked us out. She blamed that on me too......
Yeah I can switch between hot and cold and even watched it spin. I can feel the temp change. I took the glove door off and felt the actual copper tubes in the heater core inlet side is hot (will burn you) outlet side (hose and top of heater core is cool). So I think it may be clogged
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 08:51 PM
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Didn't you replace that recently???? Or am I thinking of someone else? Could try backflushing it.....
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Didn't you replace that recently???? Or am I thinking of someone else? Could try backflushing it.....
I wanted to do the whole box (heater core and evaporator) but got impatient and didn't do it and just threw the box in. I'm going to take it to my buddies garage he had a machine to actually back flush it. I'm going to see if it helps. But I have the same issue as RamMan my radiator cap never gets hot.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 10:40 AM
  #26  
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Well, I changed my core about two winters ago now and wow what a difference. It now blows hot before the gauge is even to 100 degrees. You can back flush, front flush, douche, and squirt all you want but if the core is old, your heat will never be good. I do remember having low heat at idle too. Also took forever to get heat driving it.

I'm assuming that's what's wrong with my radiator and why the cap isn't getting hot. These rigs are old!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Ramman18
Well, I changed my core about two winters ago now and wow what a difference. It now blows hot before the gauge is even to 100 degrees. You can back flush, front flush, douche, and squirt all you want but if the core is old, your heat will never be good. I do remember having low heat at idle too. Also took forever to get heat driving it.

I'm assuming that's what's wrong with my radiator and why the cap isn't getting hot. These rigs are old!
Oh I'm going to replace it, just need to get through winter with it. You always make me laugh 😂
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramman18
Well, I changed my core about two winters ago now and wow what a difference. It now blows hot before the gauge is even to 100 degrees. You can back flush, front flush, douche, and squirt all you want but if the core is old, your heat will never be good. I do remember having low heat at idle too. Also took forever to get heat driving it.

I'm assuming that's what's wrong with my radiator and why the cap isn't getting hot. These rigs are old!
Now THAT cracked me up. Thank You.

Unfortunately, I suspect you are right..... and I REALLY don't look forward to doing that particular job.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 07:50 PM
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Well I don't know if I'm going to flush the core. But today I was towing 11K and went to shift to 3rd and snapped the input shaft of the NV3500. Now I can order the factory NV4500. I found a company that will make first 7.61 instead of the 6. Something
 
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparFanatic21
Well I don't know if I'm going to flush the core. But today I was towing 11K and went to shift to 3rd and snapped the input shaft of the NV3500. Now I can order the factory NV4500. I found a company that will make first 7.61 instead of the 6. Something
How much were you pushing the 3500? It's a pretty small trans. But mine's still solid at 270k. What company makes the 4500? There's Midwest in MN or IA that I eyeball for a new one someday.
 
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