hi its me again the one that had that electrical issue if the tail lights were pulled out truck would stall or multifunction switch

i have another issue i was trying to shift into 4 wheel drive but it wont engage or it seemed like it was partial but no.. and the light doesnt come on

now i had to change the front universals and changed brakes and calipers and rotors as it was bad shape... and that was aheadache for calipers..

but the 4x4 if you pull it in on the floor into gear and put into gear and u can see the shaft underneath spinnin...
but its not engaging.. now i kinda watch some videos but didnt help me as it guess runs on a vacumm... but i dont have a vacumm pump hand held and i still alone so i not 100 percent how to check
or how does it work on a vacum if its got a lever to pull on the floor and its electrical i guess...

how do you guys handle this... or whats common or can it be a fuse? i hoping has nothing to do with that ground wire i had to cut off so i dunno

 

Did you have the CAD on the front axle apart? May not have gone together right. If you don't pull the cover to do the universal on that side, it is highly likely that things are not where they are supposed to be. Start the engine, pull the vacuum connector off the CAD, see if you have vacuum on one side, or the other. Then, shift the t-case into 4x4, vacuum should be at the other port. Start there.

 

i havent touched nothing the 4x4 was working in the summer and before i had that electrical issues you helped me diagnose
and the 4x4 wasnt working and then the universals on pass side failed completly i thought i could last till summer trying to use the 4x4 and then the universal let got the rollers just gone ... but ya never took anything apart... all i did was take the vacume line off the side of the engine when you were helping me in the other topic for electrical issues i had.. so havent touched anything and dont know what a CAD is all i have done was pull left and right shafts out to change the universals and bolted everything back in... havent touched anything..

so T case is the transfer case right thats the 4x4? and is the CAD thing on the axle in the front has like a big Horn on the side??

and what is the proper way to use 4x4 on this truck i know sonoma its electric... and u can be in neutral.. and i not sure with this truck because if i in park or neutral and do it sometimes i feel hear gears grinding to shove the floor shifter from like a 4h to neutral to 2l or whatever.. are you supposed to do it in neutral or drive or what is the proper procedure. but i can do do that test if thats what you mean at the bottom there

 

CAD is Central Axle Disconnect. There is a sliding collar in there, that locks inner and outer shafts together. You probably noticed that the passenger side inner axle was a LOT shorter than the drivers side...... that's because of the cad. When you pulled the axle out, it pulled out of that collar, and likely that was the only thing holding the collar in place. It's probably laying on the bottom of that part of the axle tube now. The cover is only held on by four bolts. But, be warned, they like to break when trying to remove them. So, chems first, tap 'em with a hammer a couple time, more chems, more hammer, then see if they will break loose. Don't have to hit 'em hard, just tap on 'em so the chems will penetrate.

Test the vacuum first though. You may be more lucky than I give you credit for.

Good diagram on how things are supposed to work can be found here.

 

Ok, seems that link isn't working any more. Lets try this:



The line with the check valve comes from the motor. Red and black lines go to the shift motor, green line is the vent line, with the filter on the end.

 

so i just got a chance to look at it under neath.. as i also doing rear brakes on the truck.. seems the all 4 brakes and 4x4 needed repairs same time..so i re running new calipers cylinders and lines gonna use up my steel line roles and goto that copper based stuff later

but i got underneath.. to see that axle shift motor vacuum... and it was rust bad and the one nipple broke off as it was badly rusted in there... gotta see if my parts vehicle is in better shape..
but if not.. my local place sells it for 200... google came up with a 600-202 but on amazon says doesnt fit but can you verify if 600-202 is the correct

as 120 cheaper then 200 there were others on amazon for 60 bucks but apparently it must be wrong listtings people couldnt get it to work
i tried googling but i wasnt 100% sure what the exact number is and if there are any other numbers.. and figure you guys might know and no i didnt test vaccumm since this was hard enough and had to pull the metal that swelled in tht rubber plug so probably needs a zip tie later

but maybe you could verify

 

O'Reilly has it for a little over a hundred bucks.

 

so finally got my actuator in the mail today .so tackled the 4x4 while i waite for the parts to finish the rear end in the other post lol

so i brake 3 bolts off 4th unscrewed.. so no pint in testing vacum with the 1 tit broke off.. i had a hell of a time getting the 3 c clips out the big one i had to hammer a chisle in there and just pry the damn C clip out..
i tried the hammer the acuator out but wont bug.. right now i sprayed the 3 bolts with PB Blaster.. and and i soaking the whole unit in vinegar hopefully it brake loose.. i dont dear put in in the muratic acid as i know it will start fizzing and eat away the metal guess the aluminum here some pics

 

and only left it in for an hour or 2 as i read vinegar will also eat cast aluminum.. so i pulled it out let it drop dry and i sprayed the part with pb blaster.. and the sensor switch broke off damn winters in canada and the salt so it fell a part

 

Yeah, that's pretty nasty. Think if you have the scratch, I would just trash it, and replace everything.

Getting the broken bolts out is gonna be fun too..... I think alternating heat, and chemicals is going to be necessary.